Emergency Planning For Pets

Please plan ahead to care for your dogs in natural disasters. Leaving this plan posted where another person can find it if needed.  not that you need another thing stuck on the refrigerator but...
Individual dog owners can be disabled by accidents or illness; therefore, owners are urged to advise neighbors, family, and friends about how to care for their dogs in emergency situations. we've  always suggested a "Godparent'' for your dogs,  preferably not a close relative as a family emergency could involve everyone rushing to the family need or heaven forbid funeral. Perhaps someone you can exchange pet sitting duties with that your dog will know beforehand. Certain times of the year a spot in a boarding just will not be available on a last minute notice.
                        Create an Emergency Evacuation Plan for You and Your Dog
Tornadoes, earthquakes, floods – emergencies strike out of the blue. Evacuating your home is often necessary for safety reasons. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog behind in the danger zone. But emergencies can be highly stressful, and without careful planning, you may find yourself in a panic with no clue about what to do. Creating an emergency evacuation plan will help you handle any unexpected disaster calmly and safely. Pet disaster preparedness means incorporating your dog and other pets into your evacuation plan so you’re prepared to meet their needs and keep them free from harm.
Understand the Pets Act
You have a legal right to include your pets in an evacuation thanks to the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act (also known as the Pets Act), a bipartisan initiative that resulted in significant changes to federal and state emergency planning laws after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. The Pets Act requires states seeking assistance from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to accommodate service animals and pets in their evacuation plans in the case of a disaster. As a result, there are now many federal and state laws that include specifications for the evacuation, rescue, and recovery of animals as well as provisions for sheltering, identification, and tracking.
Create Your Own Emergency Evacuation Plan
Although over 30 states have laws addressing animals in evacuation planning, you can’t skip developing your own household evacuation plans. Follow the instructions of local authorities in the moment but be prepared with what you need and where to go. You should be able to leave your home at a moment’s notice with your family and pets accounted for. Being prepared will help you think clearly and keep you calm during a crisis. This is important because your dog can sense your emotions. If you panic, it will agitate your dog. Therefore, pet disaster preparedness will not only reduce your anxiety but will help reduce your pet’s anxiety too.
It’s not enough to leave dogs in a safe place to fend for themselves during an emergency. They can get lost, injured, or worse. Evacuating together can save your dog’s life. Otherwise, you put yourself and first responders in danger as attempts are made to save your pet.
Remember that you might not be home when disaster strikes. Plan for being away from your pets and/or being unable to get to them. Consider making arrangements with someone who can get to your dog when you can’t like a neighbor, dog walker, pet sitter, or local doggy daycare. And place a rescue alert sticker at your front door to let people know there are pets inside your house. Be sure it includes the types and number of pets you own as well as your veterinarian’s phone number. If you are able to take your pets with you during an evacuation, please write “Evacuated” across the sticker if time allows so rescue workers don’t waste precious time at your home.

Prepare Your Dog for Disaster
Make sure your dog is ready for anything. First, keep your dog’s vaccinations up to date in case your dog must stay at a shelter during an evacuation. Second, microchip your dog. A microchip allows veterinarians and shelter workers to scan your pet and access your contact information. It could be essential to being reunited with your dog if you get separated. Keep your dog’s microchip registration up to date with your most recent phone number and address. But don’t forget the low-tech option too. Your dog should be wearing a collar with up-to-date identification tags. Finally, have copies of all your dog’s important documents. Consider including:

    vaccination certificates and most recent heartworm test results.
    information about any health concerns, medications, or behavior problems.
    contact information for your veterinarian.
    identification information including proof of ownership and a current photo of you with your dog in case your dog gets lost.

You also need to have your dog’s travel equipment at hand, preferably in an uncluttered area near your door. You should have a leash ready to go as well as equipment for safe car travel such as a harness and pet seat belt strap. Also consider buying a pet carrier for each of your dogs. You can use the carrier for transport but also as a safe place for your dog to rest during stops or at your final destination. Make sure to write your dog’s name and your contact information on the carrier. Ensure your dog is comfortable in the carrier ahead of time by feeding treats and meals in the carrier and taking practice drives.
Assemble a Go Bag for Your Dog - aka bugout bag in prepper-speak.
A pet disaster preparedness kit should include everything your dog will need in an emergency evacuation. Consider your dog’s basic needs, safety, and any medical issues. Keep it in an easy-to-carry waterproof container and store it where you can easily get to it. Your dog’s go-bag should include items such as:
    bottled drinking water (during an emergency, tap water can be contaminated).
    food in waterproof containers or cans. (Choose pop-top tins or pack a can opener.) Bring enough for at least two weeks.
    food and water bowls.
    prescription medications and other required health supplies such as tick medication and heartworm preventative.
    a dog first aid kit.
    poop bags and other clean-up supplies.
    familiar items like toys, bedding, and blankets to comfort your dog.
    stress-relieving items like an anxiety vest or calming sprays if your dog is prone to anxiety.


 Documentation (especially important when traveling) your dog’s license, vaccination records, medical records, and veterinarian contact information along with your own contact information can help in an emergency, especially when the details are up to date and in one place. Your phone may be a convenient storage location, but if it isn’t accessible or if internet service is interrupted, you’ll want those hard-copy backups. 
 A towel or blanket (thermal is my preference) https://www.amazon.com/s?k=thermal+blanket&language=en_US&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&tag=belvoir0f-20&ref=as_li_ss_tl
An injured or panicking dog can be soothed and calmed by being gently wrapped in a soft blanket or thick towel, which can also protect a dog lying on a hot or cold, hard, or rocky surface. 
Keeping an injured animal warm is important to prevent the life-threatening effects of shock, a state in which the animal becomes hypothermic and his blood flow is severely impaired. Low blood flow can lead to damage of the vital organs like the brain and the heart.  On any but very hot days, use a thermal blanket (also known as emergency, rescue, or space blanket) to keep the injured dog warm. These blankets are waterproof, lightweight, and take up very little room in first-aid kits.
We keep a couple of the mylar blankets in the car for emergency use also.
 https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-%EF%BC%8CDesigned-Retention-%EF%BC%8CMarathons-Aid%E3%80%82ANMEILU/dp/B075YP8ZY8/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=thermal+blanket&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&qid=1668444860&sr=8-9
A commercial first-aid kit can be used as the foundation of a more complete kit that you add to and customize for your needs.
Bandages.  Gauze (sterile gauze pads or gauze rolls), nonstick gauze pads,  self-adhesive bandage material such as co-flex ( I prefer colored as you can see the wrap is still in place – that helps me on the horse across the pasture )   not only as wrap but can create a makeshift muzzle if one is needed, and fabric strips can control or absorb blood, support sprained muscles. Wooden splints can be added to support suspected bone fractures. Note that too-tight taping interferes with circulation – a concern with the co flex or any stretchable bandage.
2” x 5 Yards Self Adhesive Bandage Breathable Cohesive Bandage is my preferred.
In between the tool and bandage thoughts.. 
If you feel up to it I like a skin stapler – can be a great ‘fix’ or stop gap while getting to the vet. Very easy to use. (my mother used to fall a lot in her old age…  she was tired of ER visits just get a few staples in her scalp and the $$ of it – she requested I get one for her.)
https://www.amazon.com/eMedical-Kits-Stapler-Remover-Kit/dp/B07N2ZK2V9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RAJGGDPZQR14&keywords=skin+stapler&qid=1668446120&sprefix=skin+st%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3
Tools. This category includes blunt-tip bandage scissors, tweezers, forceps,  disposable gloves, syringes, a flashlight with fresh batteries, a magnifying glass, collapsible food or water bowls, pickup bags, spare leash and collar.  
A soft muzzle that fits your dog is a good companion piece  ( note the co flex again works well ) because any dog can bite or snap when in pain, so having one on your dog while he’s being moved or examined can help prevent injury to human helpers. Has come in handy more than once when we’ve helped dogs hit by a car and the cretins kept going.
 Wound cleaner, antiseptic rinse, saline solution.  The first step in treating most wounds is removing dust, sand, gravel, mud, or other debris. Rinse the wound with plain water or a saline solution, especially if you can apply it with a hose, syringe, turkey baster, or squeeze bottle. Medical-grade saline solution, which is sold in pharmacies, has many first-aid uses, including rinsing the eyes. Scissors or clippers can be used to remove hair around the wound, if necessary. 
Once the wound is rinsed, blot it with a clean towel, gauze, or cotton balls. (personally, I don’t care for cotton balls as they leave little ‘strands’ For minor wounds, apply a non-stinging antiseptic rinse or spray. Most first-aid kits include chlorhexidine products.
https://www.amazon.com/VetSol-Wound-Solution-Scrapes-Animals/dp/B0952C2P9D/ref=sr_1_15?crid=1L9FE8O7QRSRN&keywords=nolvasan+solution&qid=1668446525&sprefix=nolv%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-15
5. Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide has long been used as a disinfecting rinse for cuts and abrasions, but its topical application has become controversial. Research shows that hydrogen peroxide may not affect all harmful bacteria, leaving some to infect treated wounds, and it damages fibroblasts, which are cells essential to the healing process. BETTER to use normal saline solution (cheapest / easiest is eye contact lens rinse – just saline without other buffers)
However, hydrogen peroxide still has an important place in your first-aid kit because, when swallowed, it induces vomiting making it useful in cases of poisoning. Vomiting is not appropriate for all toxic exposures, so be sure to follow the advice of your veterinarian, poison control center, or first-aid handbook.
When vomiting is recommended, the usual dose is 1 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide (widely available in grocery and drug stores) per 5 pounds of body weight with a maximum dose of 3 tablespoons for dogs who weigh more than 45 pounds (there are three teaspoons in a tablespoon). 
Lift your dog’s chin and squirt the hydrogen peroxide into the side of your dog’s mouth with a syringe or eyedropper. Some foaming at the mouth may occur. If vomiting doesn’t begin within 15 minutes, the treatment can be repeated once.
To be sure hydrogen peroxide is effective when you need it, purchase small rather than large bottles and keep track of expiration dates. (I like the little spray bottles) Hydrogen peroxide loses its effectiveness with age and after opening. As long as it still bubbles it has some efficacy.  
situations when you might have to make your dog vomit and when you shouldn’t,
When You Should Make Your Dog Throw Up:
If your dog ingests human medication or a goodly dose of another dog’s medications, it’s a good idea to make the dog vomit.
Circumstances Which It Depends on What Your Dog Swallowed:
Say your dog swallows a golf ball or your daughter’s teddy bear. Depending on the size of your dog versus the object, inducing vomiting might be a good idea, but many times, the object needs to be removed with an endoscope. In these cases, confer with your veterinarian regarding the probability that the object could make it back up your dog’s throat if vomiting was induced.
You Probably Should Not Make Your Dog Vomit If:
Your dog drinks an acidic substance such as bleach or a household cleaner, or eats a sharp-edged item. Inducing vomiting in these cases is more safely accomplished under the direct supervision of a veterinarian who can weigh the risks and benefits and act quickly if the plan goes south.
Do NOT Make Your Dog Throw Up If:
If your dog is sedate, comatose, or displaying signs of neurologic impairment or seizures, do not induce vomiting. you run a high risk of complications from aspiration.
Although it’s best to act within an hour of ingestion, inducing vomiting can be effective up to four hours post-ingestion in some cases. The caveat is that you should always consult a veterinarian or one of the veterinary phone consult toxicology services before inducing vomiting!
Who to Contact If Your Dog Eats Something Toxic
If your dog’s choice of poison is something more exotic, such as a cocktail of grandma’s beta blockers, statins, and anti-anxiety meds, you’d be better off making your first call to an animal poison control hotline.
There are two phone consult toxicology services, both offering consultations 24/7 and run by veterinarians:
1. ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435. Fee: $65 payable at time of call by credit card.
2. Pet Poison Help Line: (855) 764-7661. Fee: $39 payable at time of call by credit card.
 
Antibiotic ointment.  Conventional first-aid kits generally come with an antibiotic ointment like Neosporin, which can be applied to cuts, abrasions, puncture wounds, and other injuries to prevent infection. For those who prefer alternative wound dressings, products that contain medical-grade Manuka honey, colloidal silver, or other natural disinfectants are widely available. 
Ointments are typically applied to a wound that has been rinsed and blotted or air-dried and then, if needed, protected with a nonstick gauze pad that’s taped or wrapped in place. Most wound-salve instructions recommend replacing ointment and bandages twice or three times per day while the injury heals. 
My first aid kit is a bit more extensive – includes people and critter.   I lean to alternative treatments also.  A few to get you pointed in that direction – take it from there.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Alginate-Dimora-Absorbent-Non-Stick-Individual/dp/B0834VF9G5/ref=asc_df_B0834VF9G5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507467652717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15498688758012287207&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013701&hvtargid=pla-1272331952284&psc=1
 
https://www.amazon.com/Colloidal-Silver-Gel-4-oz/dp/B07C9TLBBX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=MSGGRN3650B3&keywords=silver+ppm+gel&qid=1668444323&sprefix=silver+pp%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2
 
 Styptic powder or collagen hydrolysate. Styptics are antiseptic clotting agents such as alum, ferric subsulfate, or herbs such as powdered goldenseal or yarrow. Styptic pencils, which place styptic powder directly on bleeding wounds, are convenient, but any styptic powder can be applied in small amounts using a cotton swab or spoon as an applicator. Dog groomers use styptic powder to control the bleeding of over-trimmed nails, and other styptics reduce bleeding after medical procedures such as biopsies. 
A recent development in the treatment of bleeding wounds is a medical hydrolysate Type I collagen that acts as a tissue adhesive that stops bleeding, protects wounds, reduces scarring, and conforms to any wound site. The Hymed Group (hymed.com) manufactures EMT Gel and EMT Spray for general wound care and Collasate gel and spray for surgical, traumatic, and superficial wounds, first- and second-degree burns, foot-pad injuries, hot spots, and lick granulomas. 
 Bottled water and hydrating fluid. Water is an essential ingredient in any first-aid kit because it has so many practical uses, from rinsing wounds to helping prevent dehydration. Consider a non salt based electrolyte solution.  I use a product from amazon you add to your bottled water. 40,000 volts – nice mix of minerals although it does have salt
 Wet wipes or grooming wipes. Keep a supply of pet grooming wipes; they come in handy for many purposes. Don’t use alcohol-based disinfecting wipes, because alcohol stings and can damage injured tissue. Instead, look for products that soothe while they clean.
Hot and cold packs. Cold packs can help cool sprains, bruises, and other injuries and reduce inflammation and swelling. Hot packs can increase circulation, help the dog feel warm and comfortable, support a dog recovering from shock or injury, and speed healing.
These treatments are easy to provide at home, where you can keep a cold pack in the freezer and heat a hot pack in the microwave, wrap a hot water bottle in a towel, or use an electric heating pad designed for animals. But if you’re away, a few instant hot packs and instant cold packs will be convenient. They are sold in pharmacies and pet supply stores. To activate either product, squeeze or massage the pack, wrap it in a towel, and apply it to the affected area. Replace as needed (they’re small and don’t last long, so you may need several).
 A pet first-aid guide or handbook. First-aid references will help you make right decisions when the unexpected happens. These can be short (covering the most common conditions) or comprehensive, and they’re most useful when you’re familiar with their layout and contents.