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If you have a question you not see on our FAQ page please do ask as you are probably not the only one and I will research and address it for you.
For those that have lost cherished friend
first condolences on the loss of your 4-leg family member. non dog owners will never know what they are missing nor understand how much a part of our hearts these guys are. while you can't replace a lost dog you can offer a new pup the benefit of your love
first condolences on the loss of your 4-leg family member. non dog owners will never know what they are missing nor understand how much a part of our hearts these guys are. while you can't replace a lost dog you can offer a new pup the benefit of your love
The 10 most common human medications that could kill your dog. I’ve had it recommended by vets that inducing vomiting as asap hopefully within 1 hour – the shorter time the better although I'd try even is it has been 6 hours and you cannot contact your vet for best advice
The list.. Aspirin, Xanax, Ibuprofen, Naproxen, Indomethacin, Acetaminophen (Tylenol), Ambien, Ace inhibitors, Beta blockers and Adderall
To induce vomiting....
- 3% hydrogen peroxide: The typical dose is 1 teaspoon (about 5 ml) per 10 pounds of body weight.
- Administer the hydrogen peroxide by mouth.
- Wait 15-20 minutes for the dog to vomit.
- If the dog does not vomit, repeat the dose.
Heads up – it’s corn on the cob season. They can be deadly to your dogs is they swallow even just a small piece may cause a blockage. So while dogs love corn they should not have the cob
algae bloom warning March 2024
toxic algae can happen about anywhere in the world. beware of what to look for before you or your four legged friend swim or drink or... well you get the idea. I touch on this in other parts of my warnings. The Health Advisory level for this type of algae is 8 micrograms per liter. Samples, however, showed levels between 10 and 28 micrograms per liter. March 2024 concern has been brought to my attention already for Knoxville TN med lake. The algae, which has a slight pink coloration, was discovered by University of Tennessee Knoxville (UTK) students that were taking water samples of the lake.
Until the Health Advisory is lifted, people and pets should not swim, wade, or come into contact with water, and should seek medical attention if they or their family members are experiencing illness after swimming or playing in the water," the statement from the nature center read. "Microcystin can put individuals at risk of various health effects, including upset stomach, vomiting, and diarrhea. Exposures to concentrations of cyanotoxins higher than the state's guideline values could potentially result in more serious illnesses, including liver or kidney damage.
toxic algae can happen about anywhere in the world. beware of what to look for before you or your four legged friend swim or drink or... well you get the idea. I touch on this in other parts of my warnings. The Health Advisory level for this type of algae is 8 micrograms per liter. Samples, however, showed levels between 10 and 28 micrograms per liter. March 2024 concern has been brought to my attention already for Knoxville TN med lake. The algae, which has a slight pink coloration, was discovered by University of Tennessee Knoxville (UTK) students that were taking water samples of the lake.
Until the Health Advisory is lifted, people and pets should not swim, wade, or come into contact with water, and should seek medical attention if they or their family members are experiencing illness after swimming or playing in the water," the statement from the nature center read. "Microcystin can put individuals at risk of various health effects, including upset stomach, vomiting, and diarrhea. Exposures to concentrations of cyanotoxins higher than the state's guideline values could potentially result in more serious illnesses, including liver or kidney damage.
You likely seen your dog get stung as you too may have been at some point.
Your regretful pup sitting with an inflamed snout after investigating a bee a little too closely.
But the effects of bee stings and other pests—wasps, fire ants, mosquitos, fleas, and ticks—can be serious. Just like us, a dog stung by a bee will be in some pain.
Dogs who take an interest in bees or wasps are likely to receive a painful sting on the nose or head area. Sometimes dogs will even try to eat bees! Fire ants will march onto your dog without hesitation and then sting in unison. Ouch!
Dog Bee Sting Symptoms
While hopefully you are always supervising your dog when they're playing outside, if you didn't happen to see a bee sting your dog, there are a few signs to watch for
Swelling, Hives, licking / gnawing at the spot where the sting occurred, Whining, Drooling, Pawing at the mouth, Limping, Vomiting, Seizures in extreme cases
Reactions to insect bites and bee stings can range from slight swelling and pain to anaphylaxis, a sudden, severe allergic reaction that can be fatal if not treated immediately. Mosquito bites can transmit heartworm disease. Tick-borne diseases include Lyme disease and ehrlichiosis (a bacterial illness with flulike symptoms). Fleas can pass on tapeworms.
If a bee stings your dog, brush the stinger out of his skin using the edge of your fingernail, a credit card, or a butter knife. Don't grasp the stinger with tweezers; doing so may release more venom into the wound.
Some stings are life-threatening. While it might look funny, a dog stung by a bee in the mouth, face, or neck can cause dangerous swelling that affects a dog's ability to breathe. That's an emergency, and your dog needs immediate veterinary help.
If a bee stings your dog is below the neck such as on their paw or torso, treat the painful area with a soothing paste made of baking soda and water or moisten a washcloth or gauze pad with cold water and apply it to the injury. Perhaps an oatmeal bath might be helpful in treating multiple bites or stings.
Dogs may also need the dreaded cone of shame if they keep scratching or licking their wounds, A behavior can delay healing and even lead to new infections.
How to Treat a Bee Sting on a Dog
An antihistamine such as Benadryl for a dog bee sting can help, depending on the severity of the reaction. Ask your vet now what the appropriate dose would be for your dog and write it down so you don't have to guess if and when the time comes.
Keep a close eye on your dog after the sting to make sure he doesn't have an allergic reaction. If the swelling doesn't dissipate, call your vet.
If fire ants overrun your dog, get him away from where they're attacking, put on gloves, and carefully brush them off so you don't make them angrier. If there are only a few bites, you can treat them with a baking soda paste, a cold compress, or Benadryl.
Time to see you vet without delay ….
If severe swelling occurs around the head and neck, this can affect the brain stem and motor controls – breathing being the biggie. Hives appear on your dog's body, Your dog has trouble breathing or wheezes, he pup drools excessively, Your dog gets agitated or anxious, Vomiting or diarrhea happens, Your dog gets dizzy or disoriented, Seizure occurs
Your regretful pup sitting with an inflamed snout after investigating a bee a little too closely.
But the effects of bee stings and other pests—wasps, fire ants, mosquitos, fleas, and ticks—can be serious. Just like us, a dog stung by a bee will be in some pain.
Dogs who take an interest in bees or wasps are likely to receive a painful sting on the nose or head area. Sometimes dogs will even try to eat bees! Fire ants will march onto your dog without hesitation and then sting in unison. Ouch!
Dog Bee Sting Symptoms
While hopefully you are always supervising your dog when they're playing outside, if you didn't happen to see a bee sting your dog, there are a few signs to watch for
Swelling, Hives, licking / gnawing at the spot where the sting occurred, Whining, Drooling, Pawing at the mouth, Limping, Vomiting, Seizures in extreme cases
Reactions to insect bites and bee stings can range from slight swelling and pain to anaphylaxis, a sudden, severe allergic reaction that can be fatal if not treated immediately. Mosquito bites can transmit heartworm disease. Tick-borne diseases include Lyme disease and ehrlichiosis (a bacterial illness with flulike symptoms). Fleas can pass on tapeworms.
If a bee stings your dog, brush the stinger out of his skin using the edge of your fingernail, a credit card, or a butter knife. Don't grasp the stinger with tweezers; doing so may release more venom into the wound.
Some stings are life-threatening. While it might look funny, a dog stung by a bee in the mouth, face, or neck can cause dangerous swelling that affects a dog's ability to breathe. That's an emergency, and your dog needs immediate veterinary help.
If a bee stings your dog is below the neck such as on their paw or torso, treat the painful area with a soothing paste made of baking soda and water or moisten a washcloth or gauze pad with cold water and apply it to the injury. Perhaps an oatmeal bath might be helpful in treating multiple bites or stings.
Dogs may also need the dreaded cone of shame if they keep scratching or licking their wounds, A behavior can delay healing and even lead to new infections.
How to Treat a Bee Sting on a Dog
An antihistamine such as Benadryl for a dog bee sting can help, depending on the severity of the reaction. Ask your vet now what the appropriate dose would be for your dog and write it down so you don't have to guess if and when the time comes.
Keep a close eye on your dog after the sting to make sure he doesn't have an allergic reaction. If the swelling doesn't dissipate, call your vet.
If fire ants overrun your dog, get him away from where they're attacking, put on gloves, and carefully brush them off so you don't make them angrier. If there are only a few bites, you can treat them with a baking soda paste, a cold compress, or Benadryl.
Time to see you vet without delay ….
If severe swelling occurs around the head and neck, this can affect the brain stem and motor controls – breathing being the biggie. Hives appear on your dog's body, Your dog has trouble breathing or wheezes, he pup drools excessively, Your dog gets agitated or anxious, Vomiting or diarrhea happens, Your dog gets dizzy or disoriented, Seizure occurs
Much of the food warning applies to other holidays such as thanksgiving and Easter
Christmas warning below for things dogs can get into which are big NO - NO's
My Christmas warnings - much of which should be given consideration year round:
remember Christmas presents under the that may have NO-NO's in the - I.E. chocolates....
Yeast - bread dough ( we did have a mighty drunk bunch of pigs one year from fermenting dough...)
Raw yeast
Raw yeast cells multiply too quickly for dogs’ gastrointestinal tracts. When dogs swallow unbaked dough, it can continue to rise, creating a risk of blockage or even rupture of the dog’s GI tract. In instances when a very large amount of yeast is eaten, the yeast also ferments inside the dog, producing alcohol, in which case alcohol poisoning can occur. use your best judgement on when to involve the vet.
If you bake breads from scratch, or have yeast in your kitchen for any other reason, remember to keep it – rising dough in particular – in a safe, dog-proof location.
side note 2nd hand - vet fed ice chips while waiting for dough to pass naturally - cold to keep it from rising more in warm belly..
Chocolate
Pure baking chocolate is most toxic, while milk chocolate requires a higher quantity to cause harm. A 20-pound dog can be poisoned after consuming about two ounces of baking chocolate, but it would take nearly 20 ounces of milk chocolate to cause harm. Ingestion of cacao bean mulch can also be toxic.
Signs include excitement or hyperactivity, tremors, seizures, vomiting, diarrhea, abnormal heart rate/rhythm, drunken gait, hypothermia, and coma.
Non-toxic doses of chocolate may still cause some gastrointestinal upset due to the fat content and acidity.
If your dog has ingested a toxic dose, your vet may induce vomiting or pump the stomach (gastric lavage). Treatment usually includes the administration of activated charcoal and aggressive supportive care with fluid therapy and medications.
Tinsel and glass ornaments
just common sense here - things that break or can be swallowed
Common Holiday and Christmas Plants that are Dangerous to Dogs
Poinsettias are a mildly toxic plant and should certainly be used with caution, but the dangers are hardly ever serious or fatal. The milky white sap found in poinsettias contains chemicals similar to those in detergents and when large quantities are ingested, mild signs of vomiting, drooling, or sometimes diarrhea may be seen. Skin irritation can occur when in contact with the milky white sap as well. Due to the low level of toxicity seen with poinsettia ingestion, you are safe to use them in your house with caution.
Peace lily Calla lily Lily of the Valley
In cats, Lilium and Hemerocallis genera lilies are the most dangerous. Eating even a small amount of the plant will have a severe impact on a cat's system, causing severe symptoms such as gastrointestinal issues, arrhythmia and convulsions.
Daffodils are also toxic to both dogs and cats. The bulbs are the most toxic; however, even a few bites of the flower can cause kidney failure and even death in cats.
Amaryllis (Belladonna)
The beauty of the flowering Amaryllis is only matched by its toxicity. The Amaryllis contains lycorine and other noxious substances, which is most concentrated in the bulb of the plant. This is the same toxin that is present in daffodil bulbs. symptoms include salivation, gastrointestinal abnormalities (vomiting, diarrhea, decreased appetite and abdominal pain), lethargy and tremors in both cats and dogs.
The bulb of the plant is reputed to be even more dangerous than the flowers and stalk.
Amaryllis contains a toxin called lycorine, Eating bulb tissue (or a very large amount of leaf or flower tissue) can cause stomach upset, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, and convulsions.
The potentially harmful effects of Amaryllis are reflected in an alternate name for one species of the plant, which is belladonna lily. Belladonna is another name for the deadly nightshade plant, which is very poisonous.
The Amaryllis also goes by other names, including Belladonna, Saint Joseph Lily, Cape Belladonna and Naked Lady.
English Ivy
Handling English ivy can cause severe contact dermatitis, or skin inflammation, which may be accompanied by blisters. This is the most dangerous aspect of the plant for most people.
Ivy is poisonous when taken internally, although a large amount of plant material needs to be eaten to cause symptoms. These symptoms can be serious and include a burning sensation in the digestive tract, breathing difficulty, gastrointestinal problems, delirium, hallucinations, and seizures.
Yew
Yew contains chemicals called taxines which quickly cause an irregular heartbeat after being eaten. The alteration in the heart rate can be life-threatening. Yew poisoning can also cause a headache, dizziness, gastrointestinal problems, breathing difficulties, trembling, convulsions, dilated pupils, and a coma.
Coleus
Coleus is non-toxic to humans but is toxic to pets. It can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs and cats, which may occasionally be bloody. In a home without pets, however, coleus is a beautiful plant to display indoors at Christmas and during the rest of the year either indoors or outdoors.
Cyclamen
Cyclamen poisoning may cause severe vomiting and diarrhea accompanied by significant fluid loss from the body. It may also cause heart rhythm abnormalities and seizures. The Department of Horticultural Science at North Carolina State University considers cyclamen to be "toxic only if large quantities eaten". the bulb is the part of concern and is bitter, thus between being buried in soil and tasting bad may be less of a concern but worthy of mentioning since some dogs get into anything. not that any if mine would ever do that.... yea... right............
Christmas rose
The Christmas rose or Helleborus niger, is another poisonous plant whose toxicity depends on the amount that's eaten. Eating the plant can result in a burning sensation in the mouth and throat, abdominal cramps, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, depression, and a slow heartbeat.
Jerusalem cherry
The plant is also known as the winter cherry and the Christmas cherry.
The fruits of the Jerusalem cherry are sometimes confused with cherry tomatoes. This is a serious mistake, since Solanum pseudocapsicum is poisonous. The plant contains a toxin called solanocapsine. The leaves and unripe fruit contain the highest concentration of the toxin.
The assessments of the Jerusalem cherry's danger vary widely and range all the way from "mildly poisonous" to "deadly". It seems like a good idea for families with young children or pets to avoid this plant and err on the side of safety. Symptoms of poisoning include headache, stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, drowsiness, and slow breathing.
Autumn Crocus
The Autumn Crocus, also known as the Meadow Saffron
The Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) is a flower that physically resembles a true Crocus plant, but is actually a lily. Like other lilies in the Colchicum family, it contains a poison called colchicine for which there is no known antidote. Ingestion of this plant, also known as the Meadow Saffron or naked lady, can cause severe gastrointestinal distress, damage to multiple internal organs, and without treatment will usually lead to death.
Holly – the berry and leaf Mistletoe
Mistletoe contains multiple substances that are toxic to both dogs and cats, including toxalbumin and pharatoxin viscumin (lectins, phoratoxins). It’s well-known for causing severe intestinal upset as well as a sudden and severe drop in blood pressure, breathing problems and even hallucinations (showing up as unusual behavior).
If a large enough amount of these plants are ingested, seizures and death may follow.
The leaves and berries of holly and mistletoe plants, even the dried plants, should be kept well out of your pet's reach, or better yet, kept out of the home altogether.
The Christmas Tree itself
There are dangers beyond lights and ornaments.
Firs, spruce, pine trees, and cedars are the trees that are most often used as Christmas trees and as greenery for decorations.
The oils produced by fir trees can be irritating to a pet's mouth and stomach. The tree needles, meanwhile, may cause gastrointestinal irritation, obstruction and punctures.
the water used for Christmas trees can be noxious. Bacteria, molds and fertilizers can cause your pet to become extremely sick with only a few laps of water. Keep the water covered and blocked off to prevent pets from accessing it.
Sago palm
All Cycad plants, including sago palm, are extremely poisonous.
Although many pets may find cycad plants very palatable and pleasing to chew on, all parts of this plant are highly toxic: leaves, trunk, roots, and seeds. The newly sprouting leaves and the reddish seeds are particularly poisonous. Ingesting even one seed can kill a dog.
The primary toxic agent of the sago palm and other cycads is called cycasin. It is both a neurotoxic glycoside (a nerve-poisoning plant sugar) and a carcinogen. The mortality rate of pets that have ingested Sago plant is high - up to 75%.
Dieffenbachia
(Dumb Cane) -- aka; palm lily, cornstalk plant, corn plant, ribbon plant, dragon tree, Madagascar dragon tree, money tree, lucky bamboo With its broad variegated leaves, the dieffenbachia is often recommended as an ideal houseplant for natural air purification.
But if you choose to have one in your home, be sure it's well out of your dog's reach. When eaten, it not only burns the mouth and throat but causes the esophagus to swell, potentially blocking the dog's airway.
***********
ASPCA Animal Poison-Control Center provides a database of common pet poisons and is available for telephone consultations (1-888-426-4435) in case of a poisoning emergency. You may be charged a fee for the consultation.
Christmas warning below for things dogs can get into which are big NO - NO's
My Christmas warnings - much of which should be given consideration year round:
remember Christmas presents under the that may have NO-NO's in the - I.E. chocolates....
Yeast - bread dough ( we did have a mighty drunk bunch of pigs one year from fermenting dough...)
Raw yeast
Raw yeast cells multiply too quickly for dogs’ gastrointestinal tracts. When dogs swallow unbaked dough, it can continue to rise, creating a risk of blockage or even rupture of the dog’s GI tract. In instances when a very large amount of yeast is eaten, the yeast also ferments inside the dog, producing alcohol, in which case alcohol poisoning can occur. use your best judgement on when to involve the vet.
If you bake breads from scratch, or have yeast in your kitchen for any other reason, remember to keep it – rising dough in particular – in a safe, dog-proof location.
side note 2nd hand - vet fed ice chips while waiting for dough to pass naturally - cold to keep it from rising more in warm belly..
Chocolate
Pure baking chocolate is most toxic, while milk chocolate requires a higher quantity to cause harm. A 20-pound dog can be poisoned after consuming about two ounces of baking chocolate, but it would take nearly 20 ounces of milk chocolate to cause harm. Ingestion of cacao bean mulch can also be toxic.
Signs include excitement or hyperactivity, tremors, seizures, vomiting, diarrhea, abnormal heart rate/rhythm, drunken gait, hypothermia, and coma.
Non-toxic doses of chocolate may still cause some gastrointestinal upset due to the fat content and acidity.
If your dog has ingested a toxic dose, your vet may induce vomiting or pump the stomach (gastric lavage). Treatment usually includes the administration of activated charcoal and aggressive supportive care with fluid therapy and medications.
Tinsel and glass ornaments
just common sense here - things that break or can be swallowed
Common Holiday and Christmas Plants that are Dangerous to Dogs
Poinsettias are a mildly toxic plant and should certainly be used with caution, but the dangers are hardly ever serious or fatal. The milky white sap found in poinsettias contains chemicals similar to those in detergents and when large quantities are ingested, mild signs of vomiting, drooling, or sometimes diarrhea may be seen. Skin irritation can occur when in contact with the milky white sap as well. Due to the low level of toxicity seen with poinsettia ingestion, you are safe to use them in your house with caution.
Peace lily Calla lily Lily of the Valley
In cats, Lilium and Hemerocallis genera lilies are the most dangerous. Eating even a small amount of the plant will have a severe impact on a cat's system, causing severe symptoms such as gastrointestinal issues, arrhythmia and convulsions.
Daffodils are also toxic to both dogs and cats. The bulbs are the most toxic; however, even a few bites of the flower can cause kidney failure and even death in cats.
Amaryllis (Belladonna)
The beauty of the flowering Amaryllis is only matched by its toxicity. The Amaryllis contains lycorine and other noxious substances, which is most concentrated in the bulb of the plant. This is the same toxin that is present in daffodil bulbs. symptoms include salivation, gastrointestinal abnormalities (vomiting, diarrhea, decreased appetite and abdominal pain), lethargy and tremors in both cats and dogs.
The bulb of the plant is reputed to be even more dangerous than the flowers and stalk.
Amaryllis contains a toxin called lycorine, Eating bulb tissue (or a very large amount of leaf or flower tissue) can cause stomach upset, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, and convulsions.
The potentially harmful effects of Amaryllis are reflected in an alternate name for one species of the plant, which is belladonna lily. Belladonna is another name for the deadly nightshade plant, which is very poisonous.
The Amaryllis also goes by other names, including Belladonna, Saint Joseph Lily, Cape Belladonna and Naked Lady.
English Ivy
Handling English ivy can cause severe contact dermatitis, or skin inflammation, which may be accompanied by blisters. This is the most dangerous aspect of the plant for most people.
Ivy is poisonous when taken internally, although a large amount of plant material needs to be eaten to cause symptoms. These symptoms can be serious and include a burning sensation in the digestive tract, breathing difficulty, gastrointestinal problems, delirium, hallucinations, and seizures.
Yew
Yew contains chemicals called taxines which quickly cause an irregular heartbeat after being eaten. The alteration in the heart rate can be life-threatening. Yew poisoning can also cause a headache, dizziness, gastrointestinal problems, breathing difficulties, trembling, convulsions, dilated pupils, and a coma.
Coleus
Coleus is non-toxic to humans but is toxic to pets. It can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs and cats, which may occasionally be bloody. In a home without pets, however, coleus is a beautiful plant to display indoors at Christmas and during the rest of the year either indoors or outdoors.
Cyclamen
Cyclamen poisoning may cause severe vomiting and diarrhea accompanied by significant fluid loss from the body. It may also cause heart rhythm abnormalities and seizures. The Department of Horticultural Science at North Carolina State University considers cyclamen to be "toxic only if large quantities eaten". the bulb is the part of concern and is bitter, thus between being buried in soil and tasting bad may be less of a concern but worthy of mentioning since some dogs get into anything. not that any if mine would ever do that.... yea... right............
Christmas rose
The Christmas rose or Helleborus niger, is another poisonous plant whose toxicity depends on the amount that's eaten. Eating the plant can result in a burning sensation in the mouth and throat, abdominal cramps, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, depression, and a slow heartbeat.
Jerusalem cherry
The plant is also known as the winter cherry and the Christmas cherry.
The fruits of the Jerusalem cherry are sometimes confused with cherry tomatoes. This is a serious mistake, since Solanum pseudocapsicum is poisonous. The plant contains a toxin called solanocapsine. The leaves and unripe fruit contain the highest concentration of the toxin.
The assessments of the Jerusalem cherry's danger vary widely and range all the way from "mildly poisonous" to "deadly". It seems like a good idea for families with young children or pets to avoid this plant and err on the side of safety. Symptoms of poisoning include headache, stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, drowsiness, and slow breathing.
Autumn Crocus
The Autumn Crocus, also known as the Meadow Saffron
The Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) is a flower that physically resembles a true Crocus plant, but is actually a lily. Like other lilies in the Colchicum family, it contains a poison called colchicine for which there is no known antidote. Ingestion of this plant, also known as the Meadow Saffron or naked lady, can cause severe gastrointestinal distress, damage to multiple internal organs, and without treatment will usually lead to death.
Holly – the berry and leaf Mistletoe
Mistletoe contains multiple substances that are toxic to both dogs and cats, including toxalbumin and pharatoxin viscumin (lectins, phoratoxins). It’s well-known for causing severe intestinal upset as well as a sudden and severe drop in blood pressure, breathing problems and even hallucinations (showing up as unusual behavior).
If a large enough amount of these plants are ingested, seizures and death may follow.
The leaves and berries of holly and mistletoe plants, even the dried plants, should be kept well out of your pet's reach, or better yet, kept out of the home altogether.
The Christmas Tree itself
There are dangers beyond lights and ornaments.
Firs, spruce, pine trees, and cedars are the trees that are most often used as Christmas trees and as greenery for decorations.
The oils produced by fir trees can be irritating to a pet's mouth and stomach. The tree needles, meanwhile, may cause gastrointestinal irritation, obstruction and punctures.
the water used for Christmas trees can be noxious. Bacteria, molds and fertilizers can cause your pet to become extremely sick with only a few laps of water. Keep the water covered and blocked off to prevent pets from accessing it.
Sago palm
All Cycad plants, including sago palm, are extremely poisonous.
Although many pets may find cycad plants very palatable and pleasing to chew on, all parts of this plant are highly toxic: leaves, trunk, roots, and seeds. The newly sprouting leaves and the reddish seeds are particularly poisonous. Ingesting even one seed can kill a dog.
The primary toxic agent of the sago palm and other cycads is called cycasin. It is both a neurotoxic glycoside (a nerve-poisoning plant sugar) and a carcinogen. The mortality rate of pets that have ingested Sago plant is high - up to 75%.
Dieffenbachia
(Dumb Cane) -- aka; palm lily, cornstalk plant, corn plant, ribbon plant, dragon tree, Madagascar dragon tree, money tree, lucky bamboo With its broad variegated leaves, the dieffenbachia is often recommended as an ideal houseplant for natural air purification.
But if you choose to have one in your home, be sure it's well out of your dog's reach. When eaten, it not only burns the mouth and throat but causes the esophagus to swell, potentially blocking the dog's airway.
***********
ASPCA Animal Poison-Control Center provides a database of common pet poisons and is available for telephone consultations (1-888-426-4435) in case of a poisoning emergency. You may be charged a fee for the consultation.
flea season I've been asked to add diatomaceous earth DE info so here goes.
Get food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) to kill fleas and other uses around your place. Non food grade may have other components that may be toxic. Food grade is edible and has many proponents claiming it is helpful in removing internal parasites. E.I. being passed through a horse to make their excrement a ‘problem’ for flies. touted as a natural source of silica, promotes skin health, supports heart health and serves as an internal cleanser. I’ll leave you to research that side of things as my focus here is fleas and other creepy crawlies. https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-diatomaceous-earth#2
DE is Extremely effective at killing flea and other insect (flies – ants – roaches – basically any insect that crawls through the stuff. Apply to cracks and crevices, baseboards, carpeting and wherever fleas are suspected
Diatomaceous earth is perfectly safe for humans, pets, aquatic invertebrates, fish and wildlife. When insects and other pests come into contact with it, the silica in the DE cuts into their exoskeletons and absorbs the oils and liquids inside, quickly dehydrating the flea, tick, ear mite, and all sorts of other tiny pests. This is because the powder has tiny but sharp edges and the ability to absorb liquid. DE is fine to use topically (avoid the eyes and nostrils - you don't want those tiny silica particles in the lungs.) and even internally if it is food-grade and animal-safe.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is made up of finely ground fossils from diatoms—a type of microscopic hard-shelled organism found in oceans, waterways, and soil throughout the world. It comes from the fossilized remains of ancient diatoms, a type of microscopic algae. This unique makeup creates a fine powder with highly abrasive and absorbent properties.
You can buy DE in most hardware stores, eBay and amazon. It is available in multiple forms, including simple powders, wettable powders, and spray.
DE can be dehydrating; you may want to wear gloves as it can dry out the skin.
Although DE is non-toxic, it’s best to avoid inhaling as it can be an irritant to nose and eyes.
The easiest form of DE to use inside your home is the powdered form. This type can be sprinkled on carpets, corners, baseboards, furniture, pet beds, and any other dry surface where bugs tend to be. Leave the DE on the surface for at least two days for the best results.
Cleanup can be accomplished with a wet rag for solid surfaces or a vacuum for porous surfaces. When using a vacuum, just be sure to frequently clean out your filter since the tiny particles in DE are known to clog filters.
DE can also be used to control pests living in the soil around houseplants or attacking the plants. Simply sprinkle the powder on the dirt around the plant and on the leaves if needed. Repeat after every watering once the soil has dried.
DE can kill bed bugs, fleas, crickets, cockroaches, ticks, spiders. Roaches – as well as other household and garden pest. Personally, I don’t recommend yard and garden as it will kill beneficial insects as well. This is personal preference as we grow organically and I protect praying mantis, earthworms and more helpful ‘critters’ although the powdered form is especially useful in protecting the outside of your foundation from bugs who might try to get inside the house.
Additionally, diatomaceous earth can be found in skin care products, toothpastes, foodstuffs, medicines, rubber products, paints, and water filters.
A little more about DE types you may encounter in your search to acquire it.
Food-grade DE is made up of mostly amorphous silica with only about 0.5 % crystalline silica. This composition is still deadly to creatures with exoskeletons but safe for mammals, birds, and other animals.
PLEASE NOTE - Filter-grade DE is largely used in industry to make various products and to filter water. This type of DE is made up of around 60% crystalline silica, making it toxic to humans and other mammals and deadly to birds
Get food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) to kill fleas and other uses around your place. Non food grade may have other components that may be toxic. Food grade is edible and has many proponents claiming it is helpful in removing internal parasites. E.I. being passed through a horse to make their excrement a ‘problem’ for flies. touted as a natural source of silica, promotes skin health, supports heart health and serves as an internal cleanser. I’ll leave you to research that side of things as my focus here is fleas and other creepy crawlies. https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-diatomaceous-earth#2
DE is Extremely effective at killing flea and other insect (flies – ants – roaches – basically any insect that crawls through the stuff. Apply to cracks and crevices, baseboards, carpeting and wherever fleas are suspected
Diatomaceous earth is perfectly safe for humans, pets, aquatic invertebrates, fish and wildlife. When insects and other pests come into contact with it, the silica in the DE cuts into their exoskeletons and absorbs the oils and liquids inside, quickly dehydrating the flea, tick, ear mite, and all sorts of other tiny pests. This is because the powder has tiny but sharp edges and the ability to absorb liquid. DE is fine to use topically (avoid the eyes and nostrils - you don't want those tiny silica particles in the lungs.) and even internally if it is food-grade and animal-safe.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is made up of finely ground fossils from diatoms—a type of microscopic hard-shelled organism found in oceans, waterways, and soil throughout the world. It comes from the fossilized remains of ancient diatoms, a type of microscopic algae. This unique makeup creates a fine powder with highly abrasive and absorbent properties.
You can buy DE in most hardware stores, eBay and amazon. It is available in multiple forms, including simple powders, wettable powders, and spray.
DE can be dehydrating; you may want to wear gloves as it can dry out the skin.
Although DE is non-toxic, it’s best to avoid inhaling as it can be an irritant to nose and eyes.
The easiest form of DE to use inside your home is the powdered form. This type can be sprinkled on carpets, corners, baseboards, furniture, pet beds, and any other dry surface where bugs tend to be. Leave the DE on the surface for at least two days for the best results.
Cleanup can be accomplished with a wet rag for solid surfaces or a vacuum for porous surfaces. When using a vacuum, just be sure to frequently clean out your filter since the tiny particles in DE are known to clog filters.
DE can also be used to control pests living in the soil around houseplants or attacking the plants. Simply sprinkle the powder on the dirt around the plant and on the leaves if needed. Repeat after every watering once the soil has dried.
DE can kill bed bugs, fleas, crickets, cockroaches, ticks, spiders. Roaches – as well as other household and garden pest. Personally, I don’t recommend yard and garden as it will kill beneficial insects as well. This is personal preference as we grow organically and I protect praying mantis, earthworms and more helpful ‘critters’ although the powdered form is especially useful in protecting the outside of your foundation from bugs who might try to get inside the house.
Additionally, diatomaceous earth can be found in skin care products, toothpastes, foodstuffs, medicines, rubber products, paints, and water filters.
A little more about DE types you may encounter in your search to acquire it.
Food-grade DE is made up of mostly amorphous silica with only about 0.5 % crystalline silica. This composition is still deadly to creatures with exoskeletons but safe for mammals, birds, and other animals.
PLEASE NOTE - Filter-grade DE is largely used in industry to make various products and to filter water. This type of DE is made up of around 60% crystalline silica, making it toxic to humans and other mammals and deadly to birds
flea treatment products if needed.... most vets will recommend them as being safe - note safe is properly used and assuming your dog is not one of the unlucky ones with allergy or bad response. I personally avoid these products as much as is possible. if you have 'mutt' next door flicking fleas across the fence you may not have an option. we go camping and fleas can be left at the campground or dog park be previous visitors. that said...
Toxicity associated with flea and tick preventatives can cause a variety of symptoms that can develop within 15 minutes to several hours after ingestion or application to your dog’s skin. Scratching,
Restlessness, rolling around on the back or trying to bite the back
Dogs often become poisoned unintentionally either through the misuse of flea and tick prevention or through the accidental ingestion or absorption of insecticides.
Depending on the severity of the toxicity and the symptoms your dog is displaying, treatment could be on an outpatient basis, or your dog might need to be hospitalized for supportive care.
There is no antidote for these types of poisoning.
Treatment includes quick removal of the product by bathing your dog with a liquid dish soap like Dawn®, Joy®, or Palmolive® to get the greasy substance off and rinsing the mouth with copious amounts of water.
Use a garden hose, if necessary, to help flush from the mouth any toxins ingested.
heaven forbid is neurological signs occur, promptly see your vet for potential hospitalization as Supportive care may involve
Repeat bathing, Intravenous (IV) fluids, Anti-nausea medications, Muscle relaxation and Seizure medication. Your veterinarian might also want to monitor your dog’s temperature, blood sugar levels, and kidney function, since these can be affected by toxicity in dogs.
With prompt recognition and early treatment, the prognosis is good.
If your dog develops neurologic signs, kidney issues, seizures, and elevated body temperature, the prognosis is generally poor.
Adverse reactions such as excessive drooling, paw flicking/scratching, and ear twitching are often mild and resolve on their own.
Although drooling may recur for several days after use of a flea-control product, most mild to severe symptoms resolve within a few days.
Toxicity associated with flea and tick preventatives can cause a variety of symptoms that can develop within 15 minutes to several hours after ingestion or application to your dog’s skin. Scratching,
Restlessness, rolling around on the back or trying to bite the back
Dogs often become poisoned unintentionally either through the misuse of flea and tick prevention or through the accidental ingestion or absorption of insecticides.
Depending on the severity of the toxicity and the symptoms your dog is displaying, treatment could be on an outpatient basis, or your dog might need to be hospitalized for supportive care.
There is no antidote for these types of poisoning.
Treatment includes quick removal of the product by bathing your dog with a liquid dish soap like Dawn®, Joy®, or Palmolive® to get the greasy substance off and rinsing the mouth with copious amounts of water.
Use a garden hose, if necessary, to help flush from the mouth any toxins ingested.
heaven forbid is neurological signs occur, promptly see your vet for potential hospitalization as Supportive care may involve
Repeat bathing, Intravenous (IV) fluids, Anti-nausea medications, Muscle relaxation and Seizure medication. Your veterinarian might also want to monitor your dog’s temperature, blood sugar levels, and kidney function, since these can be affected by toxicity in dogs.
With prompt recognition and early treatment, the prognosis is good.
If your dog develops neurologic signs, kidney issues, seizures, and elevated body temperature, the prognosis is generally poor.
Adverse reactions such as excessive drooling, paw flicking/scratching, and ear twitching are often mild and resolve on their own.
Although drooling may recur for several days after use of a flea-control product, most mild to severe symptoms resolve within a few days.
Traveling With Your Dog
When traveling with your dog I’ll suggest never stopping at the rest area on the interstate. They can clean the people area but getting every last bit in the dog area is not possible. Parvo for one can survive a wide range of temperatures for 6 months. Think of the number of dogs from who knows where traveling that may have been there? Next worst place fast food or gas stations on the interstate. We get off a side road a 1/8 mile or so and can usually find a closed business or some place to only worry about the local strays for the most part. Be polite and pick up after your dog… I will mention we saw one of those ‘rescues’ walking a dozen obviously sick dogs behind a truck stop. I feel sorry for the truckers that live with their dogs more than their family in the event their dog buddy picks up a disease from that situation. Err on the side of caution especially with a young pup whose immunity may not be up to full until a good 4 months old and puppy vaccinations complete.
Current Pricing
A bit outdated but still relevant. We are seeing number of breeders double and more their pricing as there is at present somewhat of a seller's market. We do not feel that is a good or ethical method doing business. We are at about the same pricing we have been, outright gouging especially in light of the pandemic. I just don't see doing that.
Suggested Shopping
List to include toys. We prefer pedigree puppy actually although any good puppy food should be fine we use pedigree as one of the brands that can be found anywhere. noting purina has changed in recent years and empirical evidence shows the degradation of their foods. Watching several sets of siblings grow over a year on pedigree vs purina has caused us to change our minds on purina products. There are a lot of regional good foods – Bil-jac being one. Basically avoid cost cutters grease balls for dogs…Also recommending cooked chicken livers with meals for a while also = so many good nutrients and fats.
Toys. bottled water for neutral transition from our farm water to you water. Rabbit water bottle in leu of bowls for crate as they learn to drink form one here - avoids playing in the water bowl in their crate. Crate should be a wire suitcase model. The suitcase model folds flat in 30 seconds and can be carried much like a ‘suitcase’, there are many good brands. Plastic crates can absorb odors and offer little ventilation or visibility for pup as well as an excited pup could over heat in one during warm weather. Soft toys such as stuffed toys - fleecy and latex toys are both good. Doggie bones and treats. A product such as nature’s miracle for cleanup. Toys. Plain old table salt is excellent for soaking up faux paux's on the carpet as it is so hydroscopic it dries the wetness up completely leaving no odor nor stain. Slicker brush with the soft tines. Toenail trimmer. More toys. Crock style or non-tipping food and water bowls. Ceramic crock or stainless steel preferred. Baby gate - the wood slat type is less climbable than the mesh. Puppy pee pads. An ‘exercise’ pen can be useful for more freedom than the crate without having run of the house yet – heights vary so consider the size you pup will be at 3 to 4 months while still in training. More toys.....
Toys. bottled water for neutral transition from our farm water to you water. Rabbit water bottle in leu of bowls for crate as they learn to drink form one here - avoids playing in the water bowl in their crate. Crate should be a wire suitcase model. The suitcase model folds flat in 30 seconds and can be carried much like a ‘suitcase’, there are many good brands. Plastic crates can absorb odors and offer little ventilation or visibility for pup as well as an excited pup could over heat in one during warm weather. Soft toys such as stuffed toys - fleecy and latex toys are both good. Doggie bones and treats. A product such as nature’s miracle for cleanup. Toys. Plain old table salt is excellent for soaking up faux paux's on the carpet as it is so hydroscopic it dries the wetness up completely leaving no odor nor stain. Slicker brush with the soft tines. Toenail trimmer. More toys. Crock style or non-tipping food and water bowls. Ceramic crock or stainless steel preferred. Baby gate - the wood slat type is less climbable than the mesh. Puppy pee pads. An ‘exercise’ pen can be useful for more freedom than the crate without having run of the house yet – heights vary so consider the size you pup will be at 3 to 4 months while still in training. More toys.....
Travel Services
We no longer send pups by airlines
while we highly recommend microchip ID which we offer at $25 we are requiring it with ground ( 3rd party ) transport. I will recommend you look at
You are always welcome to come to the farm. We understand that transport services have become popular. We can meet you at the airport for a fee or you can do the rent a car thing. As one small factor in your decision, the ride from BNA to Crossville is quite scenic.
If under 8 hours travel time each way from us we can often arrange with a retired neighbor lady to bring the pup to you, she likes to get out and can use the income. if over 8 hours a meet part way is possible or we can she what she is up to doing. public place only for protection of both parties
while we highly recommend microchip ID which we offer at $25 we are requiring it with ground ( 3rd party ) transport. I will recommend you look at
You are always welcome to come to the farm. We understand that transport services have become popular. We can meet you at the airport for a fee or you can do the rent a car thing. As one small factor in your decision, the ride from BNA to Crossville is quite scenic.
If under 8 hours travel time each way from us we can often arrange with a retired neighbor lady to bring the pup to you, she likes to get out and can use the income. if over 8 hours a meet part way is possible or we can she what she is up to doing. public place only for protection of both parties
Sometimes we get emails saying that other breeders have a contract or form to fill out and do we?
Simply put… I feel contracts as basically unenforceable and the only ones that win are the lawyers.
You will get a written warranty. a contract saying you have to do this or that does not make sense to me. We put no requirements on what is hopefully a well thought out decision to add a new family member
We do ask for your best description of your ideal pup along with the broadest parameters you can be happy within – what your families desires are – any special needs? Do you need a hypoallergenic dog for the people there? We ask you allow us this information to help us best recommend a good fit between you and pup.
There is an old sales maxim the more effort a buyer has to put into something the more likely they are to buy. Perfect example is something like publishers clearing house. Answer a gazillion questions – jump through a lot of hurdles and be tricked into buying something to get better standing on their drawings. Perchance some breeders feel the more they ask of you on a questionnaire the likelier you are to feel they are a good breeder.
As for pricing…. Short story many many moons ago I sold my artwork at festivals for what I felt was a reasonable price for time and effort involved. It was not selling. Another artisan told me to triple my prices as the more something cost the more most thought its value must be. I think some breeders apply these tactics even though they may not put as much effort into a quality pup such as genetic testing etc………..
Do you require spay neuter? We recommend it closer to a year old. Again, rather unenforceable.
We’ve seen breeders ask about your children. We feel every pup ought to own a child. However, if your children are not well behaved then they should be trained first for your benefit as well as the dogs.
We’ve seen questionnaires wanting the names of everyone in the family. As long as they or you know their names I don’t need to. As for me call me anything you like just don’t call me late for dinner.
I’ve seen one ‘breeder’ go so far as to say if you smoke you can’t buy one of her dogs. well… my take is that is an unhealthy habit and you should abandon it for your health as well as your families and the dog(s). The money you save could be well spent on some great dog toys and a nice meal out for you once in a while. I will place a pup with you that said.
Some ask about number of dogs / pets in the household. With 6 dogs laying here watching me type I am not a hypocrite saying you can’t have more the 3 dogs in your house. That is your decision. 1 dog may be to much for some folks. 2 dogs are great company for each other and awesome entertainment at times for you. More dogs are fine as long as they are well taken care of and loved.
Do you rent – dog ownership is between you and your landlord.
I could write a book on ludicrous questions we’ve seen on applications….
Enough said… I hope you get my drift.
Simply put… I feel contracts as basically unenforceable and the only ones that win are the lawyers.
You will get a written warranty. a contract saying you have to do this or that does not make sense to me. We put no requirements on what is hopefully a well thought out decision to add a new family member
We do ask for your best description of your ideal pup along with the broadest parameters you can be happy within – what your families desires are – any special needs? Do you need a hypoallergenic dog for the people there? We ask you allow us this information to help us best recommend a good fit between you and pup.
There is an old sales maxim the more effort a buyer has to put into something the more likely they are to buy. Perfect example is something like publishers clearing house. Answer a gazillion questions – jump through a lot of hurdles and be tricked into buying something to get better standing on their drawings. Perchance some breeders feel the more they ask of you on a questionnaire the likelier you are to feel they are a good breeder.
As for pricing…. Short story many many moons ago I sold my artwork at festivals for what I felt was a reasonable price for time and effort involved. It was not selling. Another artisan told me to triple my prices as the more something cost the more most thought its value must be. I think some breeders apply these tactics even though they may not put as much effort into a quality pup such as genetic testing etc………..
Do you require spay neuter? We recommend it closer to a year old. Again, rather unenforceable.
We’ve seen breeders ask about your children. We feel every pup ought to own a child. However, if your children are not well behaved then they should be trained first for your benefit as well as the dogs.
We’ve seen questionnaires wanting the names of everyone in the family. As long as they or you know their names I don’t need to. As for me call me anything you like just don’t call me late for dinner.
I’ve seen one ‘breeder’ go so far as to say if you smoke you can’t buy one of her dogs. well… my take is that is an unhealthy habit and you should abandon it for your health as well as your families and the dog(s). The money you save could be well spent on some great dog toys and a nice meal out for you once in a while. I will place a pup with you that said.
Some ask about number of dogs / pets in the household. With 6 dogs laying here watching me type I am not a hypocrite saying you can’t have more the 3 dogs in your house. That is your decision. 1 dog may be to much for some folks. 2 dogs are great company for each other and awesome entertainment at times for you. More dogs are fine as long as they are well taken care of and loved.
Do you rent – dog ownership is between you and your landlord.
I could write a book on ludicrous questions we’ve seen on applications….
Enough said… I hope you get my drift.
Do We Have An Application Process?
Can You Tell Me Where To Learn About Dog Food Recalls?
Can You Tell Me About the Merle Gene & Coloring? while not pertinent to the golden retriever we have been asked so here...
The merle pattern is produced when a dog has a single copy of the M allele. All merle dogs have the genotype Mm — meaning they have one allele for merle and one allele for non-merle.
Merle can be described as a lack pigment – so a blue merle would be black expect for where the lack of pigmentation comes into play. Similar for a red or chocolate ‘base’ color the merle shows as a lighter version of the base.
Phantom is a normal color pattern in many breeds. The cockers / Dobermans / rottweilers and other breeds label it black and tan or blue and tan or (any base color with the pattern) – in poodles it is called phantom as pattern as the marking where you see the marking rust in a Doberman – Yorkshire terrier and many breeds. Base coat can be brown with tan – black with rust – blue with rust – silver with tan – silver with white – the list goes on but the pattern remains.
So as a base coloration of merle – phantom may be seen also.
The merle gene is responsible for creating mottled patches of color in a dog's coat and blue or odd-colored eyes. Merle is an incompletely dominant gene, so not every merle dog will have blue eyes. And while merle dogs often have blue eyes, they can also have one brown and one blue eye or both brown.
Merle in itself is not a concern physically and can be quite striking! Merle bred to merle can double up the m allele and potentially produce a blind or deaf pup which where some folks concern about merles in general come from.
Merle can be described as a lack pigment – so a blue merle would be black expect for where the lack of pigmentation comes into play. Similar for a red or chocolate ‘base’ color the merle shows as a lighter version of the base.
Phantom is a normal color pattern in many breeds. The cockers / Dobermans / rottweilers and other breeds label it black and tan or blue and tan or (any base color with the pattern) – in poodles it is called phantom as pattern as the marking where you see the marking rust in a Doberman – Yorkshire terrier and many breeds. Base coat can be brown with tan – black with rust – blue with rust – silver with tan – silver with white – the list goes on but the pattern remains.
So as a base coloration of merle – phantom may be seen also.
The merle gene is responsible for creating mottled patches of color in a dog's coat and blue or odd-colored eyes. Merle is an incompletely dominant gene, so not every merle dog will have blue eyes. And while merle dogs often have blue eyes, they can also have one brown and one blue eye or both brown.
Merle in itself is not a concern physically and can be quite striking! Merle bred to merle can double up the m allele and potentially produce a blind or deaf pup which where some folks concern about merles in general come from.
What Does The F1 or FB1 Mean? another query posed to me...
This distinction applies to hybrid dogs - one standardized breed to another for the cross
The F comes from the Latin filius which means son [filia is daughter].
F1 - F first generation cross of parent breeds for create a hybrid of reasonably stable predictability in this case
F1b - that hybrid 'b' Back to a parent breed in this case almost always to the poodle to reinforce the poodle characteristic of the non-shed coat yet maintaining some to the other breeds bone structure while mitigating the curliness of the poodle’s coat to a degree. as the other parent breed would be defeating the purpose.
F2 would be F1 to F1 - which is not always a good idea as what we call the grandfather effect comes into play. simple Mendelian pea theory would have the results of 25% each parent breed and 50% mix as expected and normally achieved in F1. Dogs however, have a more complex set of genes than pea flower colors...
taking it further - if a breeder selected the best of desired mix each generation by F4 a fairly stable 'product would be achieved and by F7 a new breed created breeding fairly true. anything leaning too heavy to either original parent breed could be referred to as a 'flash in the pan' or something well out towards the flattening end of the statistical bell curve
The F comes from the Latin filius which means son [filia is daughter].
F1 - F first generation cross of parent breeds for create a hybrid of reasonably stable predictability in this case
F1b - that hybrid 'b' Back to a parent breed in this case almost always to the poodle to reinforce the poodle characteristic of the non-shed coat yet maintaining some to the other breeds bone structure while mitigating the curliness of the poodle’s coat to a degree. as the other parent breed would be defeating the purpose.
F2 would be F1 to F1 - which is not always a good idea as what we call the grandfather effect comes into play. simple Mendelian pea theory would have the results of 25% each parent breed and 50% mix as expected and normally achieved in F1. Dogs however, have a more complex set of genes than pea flower colors...
taking it further - if a breeder selected the best of desired mix each generation by F4 a fairly stable 'product would be achieved and by F7 a new breed created breeding fairly true. anything leaning too heavy to either original parent breed could be referred to as a 'flash in the pan' or something well out towards the flattening end of the statistical bell curve
Which Sex Should I Get?
In general the female picks one person to be her best buddy which can learn to jealousy in younger kids. you of course know your situation and kids if relevant. When we are helping folks with service dogs we find the male to be a little easier overall to work with and train. Most folks concern about a male can be alleviated by training most of all - HE has to learn what is not appropriate behavior in the house. in addition neutering before they learn the 'obnoxious' behavior of the male. No marking - no humping or other male concerns. Although from a medical standpoint I prefer to leave them intact longer for them to get the best benefit of their hormones until bone growth is complete. However, they will have learned to raise a leg for 'outdoor jobs. In either sex training for good manners in the house is the same. Either can make and awesome family companion. These are not hard and fast rules as I'm just passing on some observations from over 50 years of dog training.
Personality And Adding The Next Family Member.
Adding a female or male? two males will get along fine as long as one or both are neutered. although 2 intact males can get along with nothing in 'season' it is better to have no more then one intact male. as pets it is better to have them all 'fixed'. the male female combo is good and two or more females will have establish who is boss although the resident dog that has been established there will remain boss in all likelihood.
Personality And Adding The Next Family Member.
Adding a female or male? two males will get along fine as long as one or both are neutered. although 2 intact males can get along with nothing in 'season' it is better to have no more then one intact male. as pets it is better to have them all 'fixed'. the male female combo is good and two or more females will have establish who is boss although the resident dog that has been established there will remain boss in all likelihood.
Do You Offer A Warranty?
We offer a congenital defects warranty on top of initial disease warranty. I.e. for problems like crippling hip dysplasia. We've had someone use our warranty once in 40 years - that was for a liver shunt which is developmental not congenital and can happen to any mammal although not evidencing itself until 4 to 6 months of age.
The Benefits Of A Puppy From A Breeder Vs. A Rescue Dog
When choosing between the 'pound' and a breeder you can get a good prediction of what your are getting. size looks health temperament. etc. The potential difference of a pup vs and adult from the 'pound'. You know what the pup will experience with you. while with the adult who may be fine many of those in 'the system' are their for not just their bad luck but issues in their past that could adversely affect how they react to something in the future with your family.
Why Choose One Breeder Over Another?
One important big difference in breeders is one that does genetic testing to assure you the best chance of no hip dysplasia - elbow problems - eye concerns such as retinal atrophy that can lead to your dog being blind by 5 years old as a couple examples. A breeder that says they have not had any problems may be avoiding the issue or to be fair may not have been told by prior buyers of concerns or the dogs produced are not old enough to have manifested problems yet. Not checking is a gamble. I.E. - About 35 years ago we saved up big money to us the time for a retriever that wound up needing double hip replacement by 10 months old. We got that breeder to allow our vet to x-ray the parent dogs. Both had bad hips - something you cannot tell from the outside. maybe when they are 5 to 12 years old you get an indication of health concerns to come... Yet - that breeder continued to breed the same dogs!
Further thoughts about breeders is how important early socialization and stimulation is. ** see your pups early life section please.
A very big factor is temperament is inherited and as such selection of breeding dogs for us needs to be of the most easy going tractable people oriented dogs. These are family dogs first and foremost! We live with these guys and I am to old to put up with a hyperactive goofball nor do I expect you to. Both of us use a service dog and that potential is part of what we look for in a pup.
Our dogs can always come back if they need to, things happen to dogs and people, job transfer/accident and unfortunately the owners death with the 'estate' not wanting the dog.
While we prefer to help you place your dog rather than cause a 'double bounce' we have had a few over the past four decades returned 'home'. Some have been injuries to the dog people were unable to deal with and we do our best to help them.
We brought them into this world and care what happens to them while on earth. If you have questions at any point in your dogs life let us know and we'll try to provide some guidance. This includes geriatric questions as needed.
Visits
You are welcome to come meet pups/parents ahead of time. Our schedule is normally flexible, as such we try to accommodate your schedule as we can.
you may come visit pups while they are growing. however, we don't let folks touch young pups until they've had their first vaccination in case you've inadvertently touched something somewhere a sick dog or person may gave left some germs. you may look at them and we'll turn them in any direction you like. we just limit touching the young ones.
The miracle of birth
For the people that want to breed their dog so the kids can witness the 'miracle of birth' - rent the video. It is rare but things can happen during a pregnancy and during whelping. Why risk the family pet just to see a birth? Contrary to popular belief having pups is not really a money maker unless you have the time and knowledge to take care of the pups. It is a large responsibility taking the time and care of those young lives. Although it is enjoyable it can be worrisome at times.
can you meet parents
There are reasons the male might not be available on premises, but the mom should certainly be there
We met one 'nutjob' who claimed the 3 week, 8 week and 14 week litters were all the same mom who was pregnant at the time?????
Can you work with your chosen breeder
Talking:
This is a busy place and we do get delayed at times, but we attempt to answer all inquiries in a timely manner.
We prefer email most of the time, but are certainly willing to talk if you prefer and many times it is the best method to get info through both ways. We need to learn what your expectations are for your new friend to advise you which pup may be the best fit. Please note we don't text - old school here and not going to carry a magnifying glass to text.....
Please don't be afraid to ask questions:
The only stupid question is the one you were afraid to ask [mil-spec version, stupid questions beat the H*LL out of stupid mistakes] if we slip and use over-technical language to reply, please ask for clarification. we may ask you to repeat yourself either for clarification for us or because our phone is acting up again. [our land line is iffy at times and cell phones can be 'interesting' in this area [at best]
Pet ownership
carries responsibilities that should not be taken lightly. Pets are family members that need to be cared for throughout their entire lives, not disposable possessions that can be discarded if they become inconvenient. Pets also carry financial responsibilities for housing, a quality diet, and veterinary care. The latter includes routine veterinary examinations, preventive vaccinations, parasite control including heartworm prevention, treatment during an illness or emergency, dental cleanings, and so forth.
The money and time devoted to pet care are substantial, but the rewards are much greater. Research has shown that the bond that can develop between people and animals as a result of owning and caring for a pet has significant social and health benefits see also Introduction to Health and the Human-Animal Bond. Dogs provide companionship, a sense of purpose, and unconditional love. These qualities can especially benefit lonely, elderly, or mentally disturbed people. Research has also shown that pet ownership can prolong both length and quality of life by reducing stress, blood pressure, anxiety, and depression. Under proper supervision, pet ownership also teaches children about responsibility, caring, and commitment.
Further thoughts about breeders is how important early socialization and stimulation is. ** see your pups early life section please.
A very big factor is temperament is inherited and as such selection of breeding dogs for us needs to be of the most easy going tractable people oriented dogs. These are family dogs first and foremost! We live with these guys and I am to old to put up with a hyperactive goofball nor do I expect you to. Both of us use a service dog and that potential is part of what we look for in a pup.
Our dogs can always come back if they need to, things happen to dogs and people, job transfer/accident and unfortunately the owners death with the 'estate' not wanting the dog.
While we prefer to help you place your dog rather than cause a 'double bounce' we have had a few over the past four decades returned 'home'. Some have been injuries to the dog people were unable to deal with and we do our best to help them.
We brought them into this world and care what happens to them while on earth. If you have questions at any point in your dogs life let us know and we'll try to provide some guidance. This includes geriatric questions as needed.
Visits
You are welcome to come meet pups/parents ahead of time. Our schedule is normally flexible, as such we try to accommodate your schedule as we can.
you may come visit pups while they are growing. however, we don't let folks touch young pups until they've had their first vaccination in case you've inadvertently touched something somewhere a sick dog or person may gave left some germs. you may look at them and we'll turn them in any direction you like. we just limit touching the young ones.
The miracle of birth
For the people that want to breed their dog so the kids can witness the 'miracle of birth' - rent the video. It is rare but things can happen during a pregnancy and during whelping. Why risk the family pet just to see a birth? Contrary to popular belief having pups is not really a money maker unless you have the time and knowledge to take care of the pups. It is a large responsibility taking the time and care of those young lives. Although it is enjoyable it can be worrisome at times.
can you meet parents
There are reasons the male might not be available on premises, but the mom should certainly be there
We met one 'nutjob' who claimed the 3 week, 8 week and 14 week litters were all the same mom who was pregnant at the time?????
Can you work with your chosen breeder
Talking:
This is a busy place and we do get delayed at times, but we attempt to answer all inquiries in a timely manner.
We prefer email most of the time, but are certainly willing to talk if you prefer and many times it is the best method to get info through both ways. We need to learn what your expectations are for your new friend to advise you which pup may be the best fit. Please note we don't text - old school here and not going to carry a magnifying glass to text.....
Please don't be afraid to ask questions:
The only stupid question is the one you were afraid to ask [mil-spec version, stupid questions beat the H*LL out of stupid mistakes] if we slip and use over-technical language to reply, please ask for clarification. we may ask you to repeat yourself either for clarification for us or because our phone is acting up again. [our land line is iffy at times and cell phones can be 'interesting' in this area [at best]
Pet ownership
carries responsibilities that should not be taken lightly. Pets are family members that need to be cared for throughout their entire lives, not disposable possessions that can be discarded if they become inconvenient. Pets also carry financial responsibilities for housing, a quality diet, and veterinary care. The latter includes routine veterinary examinations, preventive vaccinations, parasite control including heartworm prevention, treatment during an illness or emergency, dental cleanings, and so forth.
The money and time devoted to pet care are substantial, but the rewards are much greater. Research has shown that the bond that can develop between people and animals as a result of owning and caring for a pet has significant social and health benefits see also Introduction to Health and the Human-Animal Bond. Dogs provide companionship, a sense of purpose, and unconditional love. These qualities can especially benefit lonely, elderly, or mentally disturbed people. Research has also shown that pet ownership can prolong both length and quality of life by reducing stress, blood pressure, anxiety, and depression. Under proper supervision, pet ownership also teaches children about responsibility, caring, and commitment.
Why microchip
we offer microchips at $25 -not everyone wants one so we do not automatically chip pups.
A caution on chips - We've used AVID almost 40 years now. There are others - specifically I need to warn about Pro-ID / Halo chips. we tried some since they offered a smaller chip and 90% migrated within a month to as far back as the tail. one seems to have failed completely as we have scanned toe nail to toe nail and nose to tip of tail. Most shelters and vets will scan a reasonable range of proper implant site. If they don't find a chip they can't help you. Tags can be lost.
Tattoos fade and/or can be altered. The chip would need surgically removed. It is about the size of a small grain of rice and inserted the same way a vaccination is given. We've had pups never notice the 'shot' being far to focused on the doggy cookie.
We do feel it is important as things can happen in life. God forbid you get in a wreck and your panicked dog runs.. the ambulance crew does not know this and may be to busy treating the 2 legs to ask. You say your yard is fenced? Let me relate something that happened to us.. Sheriff came knocking on the door 2am saying he had just hit our horse in the middle of the road. It seems a drunk had woven in and out of our fence about 8 times over the 1/2 mile stretch that fronted that road... ( long story short - he survived although it was quite a recovery and one amazing boy that took his treatments bravely ).
adding part of a recent news clip which reminded me to post this on chips
{{ November 03, 2017
Ten years after their beloved cat went missing in Santa Rosa, one family got the call they’d long been waiting for: He’d been found.Jenifer and her family, who had since moved to Longmont, Colo., were notified that Pilot had been rescued amid the devastation of the wine country fires – severely burned, but alive.A good Samaritan found Pilot on Halloween and brought him to Santa Rosa’s Petcare Veterinary Hospital.
Upon beginning treatment, the veterinary team scanned him for a microchip and, lo and behold, Jenifer's name popped up}}
we offer microchips at $25 -not everyone wants one so we do not automatically chip pups.
A caution on chips - We've used AVID almost 40 years now. There are others - specifically I need to warn about Pro-ID / Halo chips. we tried some since they offered a smaller chip and 90% migrated within a month to as far back as the tail. one seems to have failed completely as we have scanned toe nail to toe nail and nose to tip of tail. Most shelters and vets will scan a reasonable range of proper implant site. If they don't find a chip they can't help you. Tags can be lost.
Tattoos fade and/or can be altered. The chip would need surgically removed. It is about the size of a small grain of rice and inserted the same way a vaccination is given. We've had pups never notice the 'shot' being far to focused on the doggy cookie.
We do feel it is important as things can happen in life. God forbid you get in a wreck and your panicked dog runs.. the ambulance crew does not know this and may be to busy treating the 2 legs to ask. You say your yard is fenced? Let me relate something that happened to us.. Sheriff came knocking on the door 2am saying he had just hit our horse in the middle of the road. It seems a drunk had woven in and out of our fence about 8 times over the 1/2 mile stretch that fronted that road... ( long story short - he survived although it was quite a recovery and one amazing boy that took his treatments bravely ).
adding part of a recent news clip which reminded me to post this on chips
{{ November 03, 2017
Ten years after their beloved cat went missing in Santa Rosa, one family got the call they’d long been waiting for: He’d been found.Jenifer and her family, who had since moved to Longmont, Colo., were notified that Pilot had been rescued amid the devastation of the wine country fires – severely burned, but alive.A good Samaritan found Pilot on Halloween and brought him to Santa Rosa’s Petcare Veterinary Hospital.
Upon beginning treatment, the veterinary team scanned him for a microchip and, lo and behold, Jenifer's name popped up}}
Your pups early life
all pups are born and raised in the house. no quiet kennel for these guys - they are part of the hustle and bustle of every day life. training and socialization begins early as they are handled every day from birth. Initially it may be just picking them up and holding them a minute. by a couple weeks old they are being touched all over - ears, feet, tail etc. there will be a radio on in their room with a talk or classical station on. the cat has usually visited them and slept with them more than once. by 4 weeks old they are starting to explore their world and their playpen will be in the room where we are most next to a window so they can watch things going on outside and they really do focus on the bird feeder at times as well as the television. the litter will have a variety of different texture toys to play with and tug on. we open their mouths and touch their tongues to start training of being able to take anything away from them. this is important when they find something inappropriate such as a dead bird. ( it's a dog thing). they will have their first toenail trim as well as having their paws touched all over. as a breed that needs grooming pups will be brushed a few times before going home in addition to having the clipper without a blade held against them for the noise and vibration. pups will be weaning about this time also so spending part of the day without mom. if we have another litter of compatible age pups will get to play with non litter mates as well as meet non mom adults. we are observing personalities by now and can advise folks of any particular characteristics being exhibited. at 6 weeks old we have a temperament test for pups to further identify any how a pup reacts to various stimuli. weather permitting pups get some play time outside. part of the noises experienced to help them understand and not be afraid of thunder or backfires may include firecrackers at a safe distance when pups can be outside on the deck. a coaches whistle - clickers - books dropped on the floor - hands clapping - the 1812 overture - etc. we start crate to paper to outside house training as well as some alone practice in a crate to ease the transition to your family. we set the stage for pups to learn and experience life in the big world. what you continue to do in the first couple months with your pup will help make him/her an great family member and good canine citizen.
all pups are born and raised in the house. no quiet kennel for these guys - they are part of the hustle and bustle of every day life. training and socialization begins early as they are handled every day from birth. Initially it may be just picking them up and holding them a minute. by a couple weeks old they are being touched all over - ears, feet, tail etc. there will be a radio on in their room with a talk or classical station on. the cat has usually visited them and slept with them more than once. by 4 weeks old they are starting to explore their world and their playpen will be in the room where we are most next to a window so they can watch things going on outside and they really do focus on the bird feeder at times as well as the television. the litter will have a variety of different texture toys to play with and tug on. we open their mouths and touch their tongues to start training of being able to take anything away from them. this is important when they find something inappropriate such as a dead bird. ( it's a dog thing). they will have their first toenail trim as well as having their paws touched all over. as a breed that needs grooming pups will be brushed a few times before going home in addition to having the clipper without a blade held against them for the noise and vibration. pups will be weaning about this time also so spending part of the day without mom. if we have another litter of compatible age pups will get to play with non litter mates as well as meet non mom adults. we are observing personalities by now and can advise folks of any particular characteristics being exhibited. at 6 weeks old we have a temperament test for pups to further identify any how a pup reacts to various stimuli. weather permitting pups get some play time outside. part of the noises experienced to help them understand and not be afraid of thunder or backfires may include firecrackers at a safe distance when pups can be outside on the deck. a coaches whistle - clickers - books dropped on the floor - hands clapping - the 1812 overture - etc. we start crate to paper to outside house training as well as some alone practice in a crate to ease the transition to your family. we set the stage for pups to learn and experience life in the big world. what you continue to do in the first couple months with your pup will help make him/her an great family member and good canine citizen.
Some basics on beginning training
All family members should use the same commands to start. You might consider a chart for the younger children.
Sit Down Go out or for walk
- how to reward or get your pups attention during training sessions
- short answer is treats are good - however do not use exclusively as smart dogs will expect it. initially food treats are good - but mix it up later with a good boy, a belly rub etc so the food is not required for a response. treats will depend on your dog - something dry to keep in your pocket best. not cheese or greasy things. dollar trees is your friend there - my guys like the little snausage or fake steak pieces more then the curly fake jerky. dogs differ so see what he likes
clicker training is good but I prefer s whistle or finger snap or tongue click as those are Always with you while a clicker may not be or has to be dug out of your pocket.
my service dog works on a subtle set of clues from me in public - most folks never catch and the ones that do are amazed - some say so but it is interesting how the subject in a 'room' changes to dogs... lol - like at a convention or in a restaurant
All family members should use the same commands to start. You might consider a chart for the younger children.
Sit Down Go out or for walk
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Give paw the all important heel not who is taking you for a walk
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Feeding
We wet dry kibble with hot water to let is soften ahead of time and dish it out until pups and moms have a little left over so we know all got enough to eat. This way a smaller pup in the litter will not get left out of dinner by the food being difficult to chew. While a dog should not live on canned food it has its benefits as a treat and an encouragement to eat for smaller pups due to being soft and " smelly ". as with the dry food a good quality is important. there are lots of good foods on the market. Bil-jac is regional to the Midwest as an example of another good food. their frozen food appeals to dogs that are off their feed. ( It stinks enough.. lol)
As such I can’t tell you exactly how much to feed your pup but you can figure that out for yourself within a couple meals. You may want to continue wetting pups food for the first week for two meals a day and offer dry for in between to get pup switched to dry food as they can handle it.
NO cows milk for pups. a little goats milk or goat milk replacer powder added to the food can help the younger smaller pups. watch for milk 'diarrhea' as dogs past a certain age do not always tolerate milk well. NO cheese for young pups. scrambled eggs are good. cooked chicken livers are tasty ( no seasoning). liquid in is most important - more so than food to a point so be sure your pup has plenty of fresh water available. A low sodium broth can encourage the reluctant pup still adjusting to a new world.
For pups over about 3 lbs you can remove all food and water two hours before bedtime and last chance for potty to help the pup make it overnight physically. Most all pups should be able to sleep over night by about 10 weeks old. Our schedule is 10 pm to 6 am for pup sleep time. Get the pup used to your schedule not the other way around. If you get up early don’t wait for pup to get up to go out – rouse them out of bed and go.
Smaller lighter pups - hypoglycemia and your pup
Please be aware that smaller, younger or lighter weight pups need their 'down' time like young kids. the main concern which while rare is serious - hypoglycemia. in short to much energy going out and not enough coming in. the body will take needed energy from sugars ( glucose ) in the blood if needed. this energy is very important to brain function among other things. someone that is ( PUP or people ) hypoglycemic can be weak and shaky to even losing consciousness. a quick help is corn syrup rubbed on the gums and tongue. you probably know someone with diabetes ( a glucose control disease ) while hypoglycemia is not always related to diabetes I mention this to illustrate the importance or energy in for energy out an rest for small pups and small humans
Working folks
Folks work –that is a fact of modern life. Whether you are single or both adults in the house work should not preclude you from adding a wonderful 4 legged friend to your family. One of the simplest ways to accomplish this is with a baby gate or play area marking a smaller area for pup that is tiled or similarly floored to facilitate clean up. During the time you can not be home leave the pup in this area with newspapers down – food and water – toys and a radio on a classical or talk station for ‘company’. Pups normally use one area away from their food and toys as a ‘bathroom;’ spot – so you will be able to shrink the area that needs newspaper and / or pee pads to one part of the area you give pup as pup learns and grows. When you are home continue with normal crate training. As pup becomes more physically able to control bodily functions you will be able to leave pup in the crate for longer periods or reach that time you feel pup is trust-able with the house when you are not there.
crating
For the first nights while pup is learning to sleep all night start with the crate by the bed so you can hear pup ask to go potty. Don’t reward the pup for whining just to be held as you will create a monster. You will soon learn the difference between the ‘I wanna sleep in the big bed whine’ and the ‘I gotta go’ whine. Do talk to pup – sooth pup – reassure them you are there – even hang a few fingers into the crate. Don’t tolerate excessive whining or barking. Let pup know the NO had a meaning. Pup raising is like kid raising in that it is 99.9% good boy and .01% don’t ever think about that again. Only thing is pups talk back less – learn quicker (relatively) and are much cheaper to send to college.
Going outside
General rule is go outside - have what we call a certifiably empty pup (you have witnessed the emptying) - then allow supervised house time.
Use the same door to go out for potty and the same spot in the yard. Using the same door and spot provided consistency for the pup. The same spot in the yard will smell ‘right’ to the pup after being used a few times. I do like paper or pee pads by that door for back up use as it is quicker to get the pup there in the middle of a mistake than on outside. In addition the first couple weeks until pup is sleeping all night the papers by the door are easier than going outside for some folks. If you are not paying attention to the pup during supervised house time (such as the phone rang) and pup needs to go he can go to 'the' door and use the papers to not be in trouble. The idea is - the floor is a bad pup - the papers a good pup boy and outside a great pup. In a few weeks when you both know papers are fine they become a no comment. Out side is where to go - the floor is still wrong but papers keep pup out of trouble. Another good thing to try is bell training. Hang some Christmas type bells by the door and ring them with the pups paw or nose to ‘ask’ to go out. Most dogs sit by the door and give the ‘look’ before leaving a deposit because you didn’t catch that signal. Some bark some dig at the door but the bells can let you know he needs out. If it has only been 15 minutes and you can not supervise pup put him back in the crate. If it has been 45 minutes do be fair about go back outside before crating pup again.
A wire crate offers full visibility of the family for the pup. Wire crates have a pan to pull out for cleaning while a plastic crate can not only absorb odors but it is a bear to clean. Plastic crates may feel more den like and may be fine for an adult but I prefer the wire crate for the basic house training crate. An over excited dog could over heat in a plastic crate the wrong time of year – a rare possibility but it exists. Get the suitcase model as just like it sounds it folds down to a suitcase configuration in seconds for ease of transport. Taking the crate up and down stairs or in the car is much easier flat.
Consider a blanket over the crate is for cooler nights and those are coming up soon. Some dogs like to pull the blanket into the crate others respect it. One thing that works well with pups since they like to chew is to get a small cardboard (pup size) box and give them an old towel or shirt for bedding. The box cuts drafts and the towel is easy to wash or disposable if it gets chewed.
Puppy-Proofing Outdoors
Fence the yard, if possible. It’s best to have a fence that is high enough to prevent the puppy from jumping over it, with no holes to crawl through.
Remove or fence around toxic plants in your yard to prevent your pup from mistaking them for a snack. see my list of plants and other bad things for dogs to ingest.
Put a fence around in-ground pools. Pools are a big hazard for puppies. A fence surrounding the pool will prevent the puppy from accidentally falling in. teach your pup pool safety as well. teach them where to steps are and how to swim. not all dogs are natural swimmers although they are adept learners they need to learn to use all 4 feet. this applies not to just pools but ponds or lake side homes.
Designate a puppy area. Set aside a portion of the yard for the puppy to use as his bathroom area.
Keep the lawn trimmed and brush under control. Ticks are more likely to hide in tall grasses and latch onto your pup.
Keep your dog away from the yard if it has recently been treated with fertilizers, pesticides, or insecticides. Try to avoid using insecticides because the chemicals can be very harmful to your puppy.
Be wary of heat. Avoid keeping your dog outside when it is hot, and always have shade and cool water available
Supervise your puppy. Young puppies should not be left outside alone. This is the time to play with them and train them, and to protect them from predators, heatstroke, and other hazards.
Puppy-Proofing Indoors
Unplug electrical cords, move them out of reach, or string them through cord concealers. These chewing hazards can cause burns to the mouth or electrical shock.
be aware of dropped foods - IE sugarless gum, chocolate, raisins, and other foods that are bad for your dog.
Keep cleaning supplies in high cabinets or secured behind doors with childproof latches. When using them, make sure that the puppy is kept out of the area, so he won’t be affected by the vapors given off by chemicals.
Avoid keeping medications, even in pill bottles or dispensers, on low tables, bathroom counters, or night tables, where the puppy can easily get to them.
Keep toilet lids closed, so the puppy won’t drink out of the toilet or fall in.
Keep doors and windows closed at all times, so the puppy can’t escape or fall out, and secure the cords that raise blinds, so they won’t get caught around the puppy’s neck. One lady years ago sent a picture of her pup tangled in the venation blinds, she caught before he was injured - just panicked both of them.
same as your two legged kids - beware of choking hazards — such as coins, paper clips, rubber bands, and jewelry — to prevent the puppy from choking on them.
zinc
Dietary zinc is an important mineral, but dogs don’t need very much at all – about 80 to 120 parts per million on a dry weight basis. Dogs can suffer acute zinc toxicity through eating pennies, topical medications like zinc oxide, and other zinc-coated objects around the house. Things like these contain large amounts of zinc – much more than anyone should ingest. Zinc toxicity in dogs can lead to gastroenteritis, hemolytic anemia, inflammation, and possible necrosis (destruction of tissue) of the liver, kidney, and pancreas.
Zinc toxicosis is often confused with acute gastrointestinal episodes because the dog may be rejecting food or lethargic, while having vomiting and diarrhea episodes, either of which may be bloody. If the object swallowed is too small, it might not be visible in X-rays. Also depending on size and consistency, you may not be able to tell whether the dog vomited the object or passed it in feces. Zinc-medicated ointments and shampoos aren’t visible in X-rays the way pennies are.
Keep all sharp objects out of your dog’s reach. Including but not limited to knives, scissors, razors, food or soda cans and tools.
Secure trashcans. Puppies are attracted to the smells coming from garbage, which can upset their tummies or even be poisonous.
Move poisonous houseplants, so the puppy can’t eat them.
Taking 'meds'
For pills - put it as far back in pups mouth as you can - hold mouth gently closed. You best option at this point is to hold something you know pup wants right in front of their nose or even smear a little peanut butter on the nose or roof of the pups mouth. When the tongue comes out the pill goes down - pups can't help it. Liquid - open mouth - stick syringe in and squirt it far back in the mouth. Holding the pups head up so the liquid has to run down help makes it easier. You can sit on the floor and hold pup between your knees if you have to. Our dogs have learned we open their mouth - hold their head up - drop the pills way back of the mouth and tell them to stick out their tongue with the reward of a doggie cookie coming.
Walking with pup around
Next step is for you to learn the pup walking shuffle. Akin to the boot scooting shuffle but you do not lift your feet completely off the ground while a pup is about.
within two weeks pup will be basically over thinking your feet - socks - toes - pant legs - anything with in reach is a chew toy to be pounced upon.
Basic obedience training
is a very important step in your and your pups life. Through training you will have a dog you can live with. Your dog will respect you and you will bond better with your dog. Early training stimulates the pups mind the same as a child learning things sets the course for a life time of learning.
I hope to give an overview of training to help you get started. This is not a substitute for joining an obedience class where your dog can socialize with other people and dogs, and you can get first hand correction as needed. But, to get you started in the right direction. It can serve as the full course but you will lose the benefits gained from interaction.
You will need: a chain collar that fits your pup, a soft 6 foot long leash of either leather or nylon with smooth edges, a regular buckle on collar for your pup, a lounge line (long leash, 30 to 50 feet long). When choosing the leash - pull it harshly through your hands to check for rough or sharp edges. When choosing a chain collar get one with links that fall easily through the loop. (The idea of the chain collar is to be able to pull a quick correction with it and have the chain release instantly with out hanging up.) Loop the chain through one ring and pull and release as you would if the collar were on the pup. The regular buckle collar is what the pup will live in and can be whatever design or color you prefer.
To start with let you pup get used to the regular collar for a few days. He will most likely scratch and dig at it a while getting used to it.
Next step is to let the pup drag the leash around the room a little to get used to the weight of it and the feel. This is done a little at a time during regular house play time, but should of course be supervised. You may then hold the leash to give the pup the idea of confinement. He will most likely fight it wanting to go his own way. With a young pup tell him no and reassure him he is not choking. When he quits fighting you may let him off the leash.
ALWAYS end all training sessions on a good note. When the pup has done something right is a good time to praise him and end the session.
Once your pup is not fighting the buckle collar it is time to try him on the chain collar. The chain collar always go on so it will release with the pup on your left. (it is customary to walk the pup on your left side so training is done that way ).
To correct your pup using the chain collar you give a quick pull on the leash coupled with the correction needed ( e.g. sit ) and an immediate release of the tension on the collar. The most common mistake people make with the chain collar is to maintain pressure; hence the old fashioned misnomer choke collar.
The first lesson is usually heel. To heel is to have the pup walking along beside you - not in front or lagging behind. (show standards would be the shoulder of the dog in line with the seam on your pants leg at normal standing position ) If your pup gets out in front of you give him a correction along with the heel command and bring him back into the area he should be in. The same applies to lagging behind. When he has walked along with you in the correct manner for a few feet stop and praise him and perhaps offer a goody (do not give a snack every time) then begin walking again. Soon you should be walking together just fine. Some dogs when first starting out will try to make you think you are killing them with the leash. You must make them walk along even if it is a fight at first or you will not have complete control over your pup. (Lack of control could result in the dog yanking the leash from your hand and chasing a cat under a semi truck.)
The next lesson is normally sit. The have your pup sit give a small jerk upwards on the collar along with the command sit. You may have to push down on your pup’s rear also in the beginning. Many people like to have their dogs sit every time they stop while walking. We are not going for show standards here but it is a good idea.
The down or lay command is next. While facing your dog tell him to down with a small yank downward with the leash. You may have to help by pulling yours dogs front legs forward or pushing down on their shoulders.
Stay is perhaps the hardest lesson of all but can also be the most important thing you will ever teach your dog. Tell your pup to stay. Put a hand in front of his face and back away from him, reinforcing the stay command. Try to get to the end of the leash away and walk back to him to tell him he was good.
You can get a long leash for this training (e.g. 30 foot for training purposes) so you may get farther away and back. You could tie the leash to something and walk away a little farther or just drop the leash and back away. It is good to walk all the way around the pup while he is on stay. You may spend good deal of time taking your pup back to where he was told to stay and redoing the lesson until you can end on a good stay. I like to be able to walk a good 50 feet away and back on stay. You will also want sit-stay and down-stay.
As you and your pup progress with training you should be able to forgo the yank on the collar and just use verbal commands only. and visa versa. Once your dog is doing well with the basic commands it is time to mix them. Walk away telling him to stay then call him to heel. when heeling turn towards to dog so he has to slow down for your turn and then turn away so he has to hurry to stay at your side. Finally the ideal would be to work without the leash through all the commands mixing them. You should be able to tell your dog to stay - walk away hundred feet and tell him to ‘come’ stop him part way to down and then come and then sit until he gets to you and heels at your side.
There are many good books on the market. I prefer the Kohlers Method of Dog Training that has been around for many years as it covers all the basics for many breeds. He also has training books on other aspects
Monthly heart guard
This is non negotiable. mosquitoes can be out on warm days in February. heartworms are very serious and as such need to be prevented from maturing.
while I normally disdain use of chemicals this one is too important and I know of no holistic or herbal substitute.
The mosquito plays an essential role in the heartworm life cycle. Adult female heartworms living in an infected dog, fox, coyote, or wolf produce microscopic baby worms called microfilaria that circulate in the bloodstream. When a mosquito bites and takes a blood meal from an infected animal, it picks up these baby worms, which develop and mature into “infective stage” larvae over a period of 10 to 14 days. Then, when the infected mosquito bites another dog, cat, or susceptible wild animal, the infective larvae are deposited onto the surface of the animal's skin and enter the new host through the mosquito’s bite wound. Once inside a new host, it takes approximately 6 months for the larvae to mature into adult heartworms. Once mature, heartworms can live for 5 to 7 years in dogs and up to 2 or 3 years in cats. Because of the longevity of these worms, each mosquito season can lead to an increasing number of worms in an infected pet.
Note that in as little as 51 days, immature heartworm larvae can molt into an adult stage, which can't be effectively eliminated by preventives. it is important that heartworm preventives be administered in a timely manner every month. mark your calendar - put a note on the refrigerator - however you need to be reminded just do it.
Flea and tick medicine warning - just an FYI
(sept 2018 ) the U.S. Food and Drug Administration put out a frightening warning for pet owners and vets: certain flea and tick medications—isoxazoline class drugs—have the potential to cause seizures and other neurological effects in cats and dogs. But even if they're currently taking those medications, this warning doesn't necessarily mean your precious pet is in danger. Here's what you need to know.
Which medicines are covered in the warning?
Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard, and Simparica are the FDA-approved drugs in the isoxazoline class. Those are the only drugs included in this warning. All of these medications are chewable tablets; folks who rely on spot-on pesticides such as Frontline or Advantage are 100 percent in the clear. There are also several brands of tablets that are not in the isoxazoline class, and therefore not included in this warning. Don't assume this warning automatically means your pet is at risk, especially if they haven't taken the four drugs listed above.
What does this warning actually mean?
The FDA's warning does not mean your pet is going to have a seizure, even if they're taking these drugs. According to the FDA, most dogs and cats do not have adverse reactions to isoxazoline. They "can and have been safely used in the majority of dogs and cats," according to the agency's statement. But because there have been reports of muscle tremors, ataxia (the loss of control of bodily movements), and seizures even in animals with no prior history of such problems, the agency will have manufacturers include warnings of these potential side-effects on drug packaging.
https://www.popsci.com/flea-tick-seizure-fda
This is non negotiable. mosquitoes can be out on warm days in February. heartworms are very serious and as such need to be prevented from maturing.
while I normally disdain use of chemicals this one is too important and I know of no holistic or herbal substitute.
The mosquito plays an essential role in the heartworm life cycle. Adult female heartworms living in an infected dog, fox, coyote, or wolf produce microscopic baby worms called microfilaria that circulate in the bloodstream. When a mosquito bites and takes a blood meal from an infected animal, it picks up these baby worms, which develop and mature into “infective stage” larvae over a period of 10 to 14 days. Then, when the infected mosquito bites another dog, cat, or susceptible wild animal, the infective larvae are deposited onto the surface of the animal's skin and enter the new host through the mosquito’s bite wound. Once inside a new host, it takes approximately 6 months for the larvae to mature into adult heartworms. Once mature, heartworms can live for 5 to 7 years in dogs and up to 2 or 3 years in cats. Because of the longevity of these worms, each mosquito season can lead to an increasing number of worms in an infected pet.
Note that in as little as 51 days, immature heartworm larvae can molt into an adult stage, which can't be effectively eliminated by preventives. it is important that heartworm preventives be administered in a timely manner every month. mark your calendar - put a note on the refrigerator - however you need to be reminded just do it.
Flea and tick medicine warning - just an FYI
(sept 2018 ) the U.S. Food and Drug Administration put out a frightening warning for pet owners and vets: certain flea and tick medications—isoxazoline class drugs—have the potential to cause seizures and other neurological effects in cats and dogs. But even if they're currently taking those medications, this warning doesn't necessarily mean your precious pet is in danger. Here's what you need to know.
Which medicines are covered in the warning?
Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard, and Simparica are the FDA-approved drugs in the isoxazoline class. Those are the only drugs included in this warning. All of these medications are chewable tablets; folks who rely on spot-on pesticides such as Frontline or Advantage are 100 percent in the clear. There are also several brands of tablets that are not in the isoxazoline class, and therefore not included in this warning. Don't assume this warning automatically means your pet is at risk, especially if they haven't taken the four drugs listed above.
What does this warning actually mean?
The FDA's warning does not mean your pet is going to have a seizure, even if they're taking these drugs. According to the FDA, most dogs and cats do not have adverse reactions to isoxazoline. They "can and have been safely used in the majority of dogs and cats," according to the agency's statement. But because there have been reports of muscle tremors, ataxia (the loss of control of bodily movements), and seizures even in animals with no prior history of such problems, the agency will have manufacturers include warnings of these potential side-effects on drug packaging.
https://www.popsci.com/flea-tick-seizure-fda
Emergency planning:
Please plan ahead to care for your dogs in natural disasters. Leaving this plan posted where another person can find it if needed. not that you need another thing stuck on the refrigerator but...
Individual dog owners can be disabled by accidents or illness; therefore, owners are urged to advise neighbors, family, and friends about how to care for their dogs in emergency situations. we've always suggested a "Godparent'' for your dogs, preferably not a close relative as a family emergency could involve everyone rushing to the family need or heaven forbid funeral. Perhaps someone you can exchange pet sitting duties with that your dog will know beforehand. Certain times of the year a spot in a boarding just will not be available on a last minute notice.
Create an Emergency Evacuation Plan for You and Your Dog
Tornadoes, earthquakes, floods – emergencies strike out of the blue. Evacuating your home is often necessary for safety reasons. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog behind in the danger zone. But emergencies can be highly stressful, and without careful planning, you may find yourself in a panic with no clue about what to do. Creating an emergency evacuation plan will help you handle any unexpected disaster calmly and safely. Pet disaster preparedness means incorporating your dog and other pets into your evacuation plan so you’re prepared to meet their needs and keep them free from harm.
Understand the Pets Act
You have a legal right to include your pets in an evacuation thanks to the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act (also known as the Pets Act), a bipartisan initiative that resulted in significant changes to federal and state emergency planning laws after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. The Pets Act requires states seeking assistance from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to accommodate service animals and pets in their evacuation plans in the case of a disaster. As a result, there are now many federal and state laws that include specifications for the evacuation, rescue, and recovery of animals as well as provisions for sheltering, identification, and tracking.
Create Your Own Emergency Evacuation Plan
Although over 30 states have laws addressing animals in evacuation planning, you can’t skip developing your own household evacuation plans. Follow the instructions of local authorities in the moment but be prepared with what you need and where to go. You should be able to leave your home at a moment’s notice with your family and pets accounted for. Being prepared will help you think clearly and keep you calm during a crisis. This is important because your dog can sense your emotions. If you panic, it will agitate your dog. Therefore, pet disaster preparedness will not only reduce your anxiety but will help reduce your pet’s anxiety too.
It’s not enough to leave dogs in a safe place to fend for themselves during an emergency. They can get lost, injured, or worse. Evacuating together can save your dog’s life. Otherwise, you put yourself and first responders in danger as attempts are made to save your pet.
Remember that you might not be home when disaster strikes. Plan for being away from your pets and/or being unable to get to them. Consider making arrangements with someone who can get to your dog when you can’t like a neighbor, dog walker, pet sitter, or local doggy daycare. And place a rescue alert sticker at your front door to let people know there are pets inside your house. Be sure it includes the types and number of pets you own as well as your veterinarian’s phone number. If you are able to take your pets with you during an evacuation, please write “Evacuated” across the sticker if time allows so rescue workers don’t waste precious time at your home.
Prepare Your Dog for Disaster
DISASTER PLANNING
I speak from experience on disasters - hurricanes, floods and a fire. don't wait for the SHTF (Look it up if you need to )
PLEASE Don’t leave your pets home! If it is unsafe for you to stay it is unsafe for them too.
I can't stress enough that you do not leave them at home to fend for themselves. They’re a part of the family after all.
Be sure to bring along your pets' medication, (and yours),food, and a few toys or treasured items so they're comfortable when they reach their temporary lodging.
Whether it’s wildfires, hurricanes, tornados, or derecho, the world is full of natural disasters.
The key is to be proactive. Don’t begin the process once you see floodwaters or get the hurricane warning.
Start gathering your pet’s “ B.O.B. bug out bag” before there’s any hint of a disaster, setting aside items so you can gather them quickly in case of an emergency. include leashes and harnesses as you normally use, carriers, food, water, and bowls, and very importantly any medication your pet needs.
Have a list of your pet’s medical and vaccination records in case you need to visit an unfamiliar veterinarian or boarding facility. Be sure that your contact information linked to your pet's microchip is updated, and that your pet has their ID tags. It’s also a good idea to carry photos of them in case you get separated.
When a disaster is on the way, place your pet’s emergency kit near the door, like your B.O.B . We keep a version of this in the B.O.V. ( bug out vehicle )Or if you plan to shelter in place, have the kit close to the basement, storm shelter, or wherever you’ve decided that you will all be safest.
Like fire drills, you can practice evacuating (or seeking shelter) with your pet so you can see how they react. Some pets can try to hide when they see their owner hurry around nervously or when they hear a smoke or fire alarm. That can be a big problem if you need to leave fast.
In case of an evacuation, you’ll also want to map out where you might be headed. Have back up plan as some route may be (in my terms FUBAR – you military folks understand)
Look online to find resources specific to your area. Available pet friendly shelters – lodging that may still have openings that you can book. Friends or family that will take you in – assuming they are out of the danger area
Once you may return home be aware there may be damage resulting in smells and unfamiliar surroundings as things likely have changed and the more sensitive pet may be upset. Fences and gates might also be damaged. A thorough check of the grounds is in order before allowing your pet to return to the normal routine. Any water or food supplies left behind should be checked for elimination and replacement for safety
Make sure your dog is ready for anything. First, keep your dog’s vaccinations up to date in case your dog must stay at a shelter during an evacuation. Second, microchip your dog. A microchip allows veterinarians and shelter workers to scan your pet and access your contact information. It could be essential to being reunited with your dog if you get separated. Keep your dog’s microchip registration up to date with your most recent phone number and address. But don’t forget the low-tech option too. Your dog should be wearing a collar with up-to-date identification tags. Finally, have copies of all your dog’s important documents. Consider including:
vaccination certificates and most recent heartworm test results.
information about any health concerns, medications, or behavior problems.
contact information for your veterinarian.
identification information including proof of ownership and a current photo of you with your dog in case your dog gets lost.
You also need to have your dog’s travel equipment at hand, preferably in an uncluttered area near your door. You should have a leash ready to go as well as equipment for safe car travel such as a harness and pet seat belt strap. Also consider buying a pet carrier for each of your dogs. You can use the carrier for transport but also as a safe place for your dog to rest during stops or at your final destination. Make sure to write your dog’s name and your contact information on the carrier. Ensure your dog is comfortable in the carrier ahead of time by feeding treats and meals in the carrier and taking practice drives.
Assemble a Go Bag for Your Dog - aka bugout bag in prepper-speak.
A pet disaster preparedness kit should include everything your dog will need in an emergency evacuation. Consider your dog’s basic needs, safety, and any medical issues. Keep it in an easy-to-carry waterproof container and store it where you can easily get to it. Your dog’s go-bag should include items such as:
bottled drinking water (during an emergency, tap water can be contaminated).
food in waterproof containers or cans. (Choose pop-top tins or pack a can opener.) Bring enough for at least two weeks.
food and water bowls.
prescription medications and other required health supplies such as tick medication and heartworm preventative.
a dog first aid kit.
poop bags and other clean-up supplies.
familiar items like toys, bedding, and blankets to comfort your dog.
stress-relieving items like an anxiety vest or calming sprays if your dog is prone to anxiety.
Documentation (especially important when traveling) your dog’s license, vaccination records, medical records, and veterinarian contact information along with your own contact information can help in an emergency, especially when the details are up to date and in one place. Your phone may be a convenient storage location, but if it isn’t accessible or if internet service is interrupted, you’ll want those hard-copy backups.
A towel or blanket (thermal is my preference) https://www.amazon.com/s?k=thermal+blanket&language=en_US&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&tag=belvoir0f-20&ref=as_li_ss_tl
An injured or panicking dog can be soothed and calmed by being gently wrapped in a soft blanket or thick towel, which can also protect a dog lying on a hot or cold, hard, or rocky surface.
Keeping an injured animal warm is important to prevent the life-threatening effects of shock, a state in which the animal becomes hypothermic and his blood flow is severely impaired. Low blood flow can lead to damage of the vital organs like the brain and the heart. On any but very hot days, use a thermal blanket (also known as emergency, rescue, or space blanket) to keep the injured dog warm. These blankets are waterproof, lightweight, and take up very little room in first-aid kits.
We keep a couple of the mylar blankets in the car for emergency use also.
https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-%EF%BC%8CDesigned-Retention-%EF%BC%8CMarathons-Aid%E3%80%82ANMEILU/dp/B075YP8ZY8/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=thermal+blanket&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&qid=1668444860&sr=8-9
A commercial first-aid kit can be used as the foundation of a more complete kit that you add to and customize for your needs.
Bandages. Gauze (sterile gauze pads or gauze rolls), nonstick gauze pads, self-adhesive bandage material such as co-flex ( I prefer colored as you can see the wrap is still in place – that helps me on the horse across the pasture ) not only as wrap but can create a makeshift muzzle if one is needed, and fabric strips can control or absorb blood, support sprained muscles. Wooden splints can be added to support suspected bone fractures. Note that too-tight taping interferes with circulation – a concern with the co flex or any stretchable bandage.
2” x 5 Yards Self Adhesive Bandage Breathable Cohesive Bandage is my preferred.
In between the tool and bandage thoughts..
If you feel up to it I like a skin stapler – can be a great ‘fix’ or stop gap while getting to the vet. Very easy to use. (my mother used to fall a lot in her old age… she was tired of ER visits just get a few staples in her scalp and the $$ of it – she requested I get one for her.)
https://www.amazon.com/eMedical-Kits-Stapler-Remover-Kit/dp/B07N2ZK2V9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RAJGGDPZQR14&keywords=skin+stapler&qid=1668446120&sprefix=skin+st%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3
Tools. This category includes blunt-tip bandage scissors, tweezers, forceps, disposable gloves, syringes, a flashlight with fresh batteries, a magnifying glass, collapsible food or water bowls, pickup bags, spare leash and collar.
A soft muzzle that fits your dog is a good companion piece ( note the co flex again works well ) because any dog can bite or snap when in pain, so having one on your dog while he’s being moved or examined can help prevent injury to human helpers. Has come in handy more than once when we’ve helped dogs hit by a car and the cretins kept going.
Wound cleaner, antiseptic rinse, saline solution. The first step in treating most wounds is removing dust, sand, gravel, mud, or other debris. Rinse the wound with plain water or a saline solution, especially if you can apply it with a hose, syringe, turkey baster, or squeeze bottle. Medical-grade saline solution, which is sold in pharmacies, has many first-aid uses, including rinsing the eyes. Scissors or clippers can be used to remove hair around the wound, if necessary.
Once the wound is rinsed, blot it with a clean towel, gauze, or cotton balls. (personally, I don’t care for cotton balls as they leave little ‘strands’ For minor wounds, apply a non-stinging antiseptic rinse or spray. Most first-aid kits include chlorhexidine products.
https://www.amazon.com/VetSol-Wound-Solution-Scrapes-Animals/dp/B0952C2P9D/ref=sr_1_15?crid=1L9FE8O7QRSRN&keywords=nolvasan+solution&qid=1668446525&sprefix=nolv%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-15
5. Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide has long been used as a disinfecting rinse for cuts and abrasions, but its topical application has become controversial. Research shows that hydrogen peroxide may not affect all harmful bacteria, leaving some to infect treated wounds, and it damages fibroblasts, which are cells essential to the healing process. BETTER to use normal saline solution (cheapest / easiest is eye contact lens rinse – just saline without other buffers)
However, hydrogen peroxide still has an important place in your first-aid kit because, when swallowed, it induces vomiting making it useful in cases of poisoning. Vomiting is not appropriate for all toxic exposures, so be sure to follow the advice of your veterinarian, poison control center, or first-aid handbook.
When vomiting is recommended, the usual dose is 1 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide (widely available in grocery and drug stores) per 5 pounds of body weight with a maximum dose of 3 tablespoons for dogs who weigh more than 45 pounds (there are three teaspoons in a tablespoon).
Lift your dog’s chin and squirt the hydrogen peroxide into the side of your dog’s mouth with a syringe or eyedropper. Some foaming at the mouth may occur. If vomiting doesn’t begin within 15 minutes, the treatment can be repeated once.
To be sure hydrogen peroxide is effective when you need it, purchase small rather than large bottles and keep track of expiration dates. (I like the little spray bottles) Hydrogen peroxide loses its effectiveness with age and after opening. As long as it still bubbles it has some efficacy.
situations when you might have to make your dog vomit and when you shouldn’t,
When You Should Make Your Dog Throw Up:
If your dog ingests human medication or a goodly dose of another dog’s medications, it’s a good idea to make the dog vomit.
Circumstances Which It Depends on What Your Dog Swallowed:
Say your dog swallows a golf ball or your daughter’s teddy bear. Depending on the size of your dog versus the object, inducing vomiting might be a good idea, but many times, the object needs to be removed with an endoscope. In these cases, confer with your veterinarian regarding the probability that the object could make it back up your dog’s throat if vomiting was induced.
You Probably Should Not Make Your Dog Vomit If:
Your dog drinks an acidic substance such as bleach or a household cleaner, or eats a sharp-edged item. Inducing vomiting in these cases is more safely accomplished under the direct supervision of a veterinarian who can weigh the risks and benefits and act quickly if the plan goes south.
Do NOT Make Your Dog Throw Up If:
If your dog is sedate, comatose, or displaying signs of neurologic impairment or seizures, do not induce vomiting. you run a high risk of complications from aspiration.
Although it’s best to act within an hour of ingestion, inducing vomiting can be effective up to four hours post-ingestion in some cases. The caveat is that you should always consult a veterinarian or one of the veterinary phone consult toxicology services before inducing vomiting!
Who to Contact If Your Dog Eats Something Toxic
If your dog’s choice of poison is something more exotic, such as a cocktail of grandma’s beta blockers, statins, and anti-anxiety meds, you’d be better off making your first call to an animal poison control hotline.
There are two phone consult toxicology services, both offering consultations 24/7 and run by veterinarians:
1. ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435. Fee: $65 payable at time of call by credit card.
2. Pet Poison Help Line: (855) 764-7661. Fee: $39 payable at time of call by credit card.
Antibiotic ointment. Conventional first-aid kits generally come with an antibiotic ointment like Neosporin, which can be applied to cuts, abrasions, puncture wounds, and other injuries to prevent infection. For those who prefer alternative wound dressings, products that contain medical-grade Manuka honey, colloidal silver, or other natural disinfectants are widely available.
Ointments are typically applied to a wound that has been rinsed and blotted or air-dried and then, if needed, protected with a nonstick gauze pad that’s taped or wrapped in place. Most wound-salve instructions recommend replacing ointment and bandages twice or three times per day while the injury heals.
My first aid kit is a bit more extensive – includes people and critter. I lean to alternative treatments also. A few to get you pointed in that direction – take it from there.
https://www.amazon.com/Alginate-Dimora-Absorbent-Non-Stick-Individual/dp/B0834VF9G5/ref=asc_df_B0834VF9G5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507467652717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15498688758012287207&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013701&hvtargid=pla-1272331952284&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Colloidal-Silver-Gel-4-oz/dp/B07C9TLBBX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=MSGGRN3650B3&keywords=silver+ppm+gel&qid=1668444323&sprefix=silver+pp%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2
Styptic powder or collagen hydrolysate. Styptics are antiseptic clotting agents such as alum, ferric subsulfate, or herbs such as powdered goldenseal or yarrow. Styptic pencils, which place styptic powder directly on bleeding wounds, are convenient, but any styptic powder can be applied in small amounts using a cotton swab or spoon as an applicator. Dog groomers use styptic powder to control the bleeding of over-trimmed nails, and other styptics reduce bleeding after medical procedures such as biopsies.
A recent development in the treatment of bleeding wounds is a medical hydrolysate Type I collagen that acts as a tissue adhesive that stops bleeding, protects wounds, reduces scarring, and conforms to any wound site. The Hymed Group (hymed.com) manufactures EMT Gel and EMT Spray for general wound care and Collasate gel and spray for surgical, traumatic, and superficial wounds, first- and second-degree burns, foot-pad injuries, hot spots, and lick granulomas.
Bottled water and hydrating fluid. Water is an essential ingredient in any first-aid kit because it has so many practical uses, from rinsing wounds to helping prevent dehydration. Consider a non salt based electrolyte solution. I use a product from amazon you add to your bottled water. 40,000 volts – nice mix of minerals although it does have salt
Wet wipes or grooming wipes. Keep a supply of pet grooming wipes; they come in handy for many purposes. Don’t use alcohol-based disinfecting wipes, because alcohol stings and can damage injured tissue. Instead, look for products that soothe while they clean.
Hot and cold packs. Cold packs can help cool sprains, bruises, and other injuries and reduce inflammation and swelling. Hot packs can increase circulation, help the dog feel warm and comfortable, support a dog recovering from shock or injury, and speed healing.
These treatments are easy to provide at home, where you can keep a cold pack in the freezer and heat a hot pack in the microwave, wrap a hot water bottle in a towel, or use an electric heating pad designed for animals. But if you’re away, a few instant hot packs and instant cold packs will be convenient. They are sold in pharmacies and pet supply stores. To activate either product, squeeze or massage the pack, wrap it in a towel, and apply it to the affected area. Replace as needed (they’re small and don’t last long, so you may need several).
A pet first-aid guide or handbook. First-aid references will help you make right decisions when the unexpected happens. These can be short (covering the most common conditions) or comprehensive, and they’re most useful when you’re familiar with their layout and contents.
Camping traveling with pups
admittedly copied so just giving URL - camping and national parks info as or May 2021
https://thedyrt.com/magazine/lifestyle/worst-national-parks-for-dogs-and-where-to-camp-instead/?fbclid=IwAR2GF9i1WR-hNCYdr1cTjWq-gl907oAAvNBQ03Zv9bDiKdOmuIQw5F9ZMsg
travel - dog friendly links
https://www.bringfido.com/?fbclid=IwAR2YiEnu--TlDcynbGA1I5JCCCERf3R4IWUObejNrbYKXmg7zwzLBofQdkA
other links well below should be checked as I have not updated since this covid malarkey... real but a lot of drama....
** a quick caveat - beware of pups food intake and downtime requirements. please see my notes on hypoglycemia
Some folks like to pick up their pups as part of a trip. a few suggestions to help that process with a puppy in addition to some comments on camping / traveling in general with your dog(s)
I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking. the same food they are used for the same reasons. You can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc tailored for your needs.
Keep the air conditioner or heat on when leaving your dog unattended
If you’re staying in an area with a warm climate, have a backup system in place for keeping your dog cool in case of power failure or an A/C malfunction while you’re gone.
there are 'apps' and sensors available that will alert you to your cell phone of temperature changes in your camper. try a search (camper temperature monitor for pets ) to learn more. I have a 'dumb' phone so can't offer an opinion based on experience. please feel free to advise me of options and suggestions on any dog product.
Always leave the air vents open with the fans on and beware of newer ventilation fans with built-in sensors that automatically shut vents if it rains. If your RV has these sensors, disable them before leaving your dog alone in the RV. Also, be sure to set out plenty of water before you leave. for the dog in a crate add a water bottle. my favorite being the dog version of a rabbit bottle by lixit.
bring a crate that can contain your dog safely in your camper. a freaked out dog can destroy a camper and even escape. if a crate not part of your hoe routine train your dog the the crate ahead of time. A spare bunk or even a dog bed stashed under the dinette table also make great spaces where your pup can go to relax and feel safe.
Bring comforts from home: Providing your pooch with a favorite blanket or toy will help it settle in to your home away from home. And be sure to keep favorite treats on hand for rewarding good behavior.
Clean up after your pet: Again, this is not only considerate, it’s a requirement in most campgrounds. Even if you’re dry-docking in the wilderness, picking up after your pup is better for the environment and the surrounding wildlife
Locate the nearest storm shelter: Be sure your campground’s shelter allows pets, and keep a sharp eye on the weather reports, especially in areas prevalent for tornadoes or hurricanes. see emergency plans elsewhere on my FAQ section.
Help your dog be a quiet neighbor: If your companion is prone to barking at the slightest disturbance, try using a fan or white noise machine to mask outside noises. I like a radio on a talk station or classical as background noise before and during a trip. part of early puppy training here is fire crackers on the deck by 6 weeks old. acclimatizing your dog to odd noises young helps later with fireworks - thunder storms - backfires - etc. When you need to leave your dog alone, take them on a walk first to release any pent-up energy and tire them out, and leave plenty of toys to keep them from barking out of boredom. If that doesn’t curb out-of-control barking, try an anti-barking device - there are many good options out there. A good selection of decent brands and styles available at gundogsupply.com - note we have tested a number the cheap ones available at places like ebay and amazon and can say buyer beware or the 'inexpensive' think cheap in both meanings of the word.
Bring the Right Gear
Besides your pet’s food, fresh water, bowls, leash and collar, grooming supplies, and all the comforts and necessities of daily life. keep in mind the water your dog is accustomed to. bottled water is neutral and available anywhere while well or 'city' water is different or may contain things like chlorine or fluoride your dog is not used to.
think about activities you’ll want to engage in with your dog and pack accordingly. Here are some items you might want to bring along as your lifestyle or plans dictate.
Safety harness with a handle. be sure it is well attached taking your dogs weight into account.
Light that attaches to a leash or collar or vest - I have them on both sides of my service dogs vest. we also have collars that light all the way around and can be set to flash or just be on. same option applies to leashes.
Dog life vest - look at styles as I see some of the newer ones take into account your dog could be knocked out the same as you could in a boating accident or get very tired swimming. a 'flap' or neck 'ring' to support the head.
Water toys
Booties to protect paws in snow and ice ( think about ice melting chemicals also ) or on hot or rocky surfaces. be very aware that asphalt is HOT in the sun. you can figure that one out standing still a few minutes and feeling it though your shoes. think how it must be on 'bare' feet.
Dog sunscreen for nose, ears, and other exposed areas
Pet-friendly mosquito and tick repellent
Collapsible food and water dishes for your backpack if that is your style of camping.
Sun goggles to protect your pet’s eyes if your dog tolerates them - again something to try and get his used to ahead of the need.
Old beach towels for drying your pup off, mopping up messes or providing a surface to lie on shade umbrella
Folding or collapsible play pen for small dogs
Sweater or jacket for cold climates
hotels
- Many hotels accept pets as a chain. Red roof is one - as policies can change I suggest a quick search on traveling with pets for pet friendly hotels. Not endorsing but as of December 2016 I found these quickly
http://www.officialpethotels.com/?refid=1385&refclickid=1385~G~E~pet-friendly-hotels&gclid=CMy-3tjo5tACFQ-NaQod2tID4A#axzz4SKfEcCOe
https://www.bringfido.com/lodging/
Identification
In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified.
Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots. If you plan on being away for more than a few days, consider purchasing a second identification tag giving the location and phone number of your vacation spot.
Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip. your vet can help you with that or you can buy your own online and 'implant' it - - it is just like a shot over the shoulder blades but has the chip instead of liquid. I recommend avid as one of the best chips. AKC has their own chip they sell. avoid halo as we tried them and they migrated far away from site normally checked.
Bring a recent picture of your dog along with you, as well as a copy of his health records listing all of his recent vaccinations.
A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car or camper and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet stores and online.
Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn, and lie down. for most uses I recommend a wire suitcase model crate. see the airlines rules on what they require.
Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.
Be prepared for an emergency if there’s a situation where your dog needs medical attention, you need to be prepared with the necessary information on hand - especially true of any medical concerns out of the ordinary for your dog.
Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.
Avoid carsickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.
Keep the car well ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.
Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.
Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.
Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks is not only a good idea for you but for your dog as well. Be sure to clean up after your dog. military protocol is 15 minute break every 2 to 3 hours or every 100 - 150 miles driving - whichever is shorter.
Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer. If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog
Bring your dog to the veterinarian for a checkup before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up-to-date; take shot records with you. A health certificate within 10 days of travel are required for airline travel for dogs as 'cargo'. = check with the airlines about small dogs as carry-on. there is usually a fee and will require a soft sided crate but don't usually require the health certificate. be sure the airlines knows when booking as seating arrangement will be adjusted accordingly. service dogs are the exception to the normal size / crate requirement in the cabin - noting a very large dog or flight over 8 hours duration will have further requirements.
When traveling by plane, plan to visit your veterinarian before your trip. Certification of health must be provided to the airline dated no more than 10 days before travel. Rabies certificates are also required for dogs over 12 weeks old. Your dog should be at least 8 weeks old.
Airlines make it clear that it is the owner’s responsibility to verify the dog’s health and ability to fly. Ask your veterinarian if it would be best for your dog to be tranquilized for the trip. I have to make the point as cargo they ask if the dog has been sedated and will possibly turn you down if the dog is sedated - possible exception with veterinarian note. check ahead of time on that one. Also be sure to check the temperature of the flight’s starting point and destination; it may be too hot or too cold to be safe for your dog.
Federal regulations prohibit shipping live animals as excess baggage or cargo if an animal will be exposed to temperatures that are below 25 degrees Fahrenheit or above 85 degrees Fahrenheit for more than two hours before departure, at arrival, or while making connections.
According to American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), air transport of sedated pets may be fatal. Over-sedation is the most frequent cause of animal deaths during airline transport and accounts for almost half of all deaths. Except in unusual circumstances, veterinarians should not dispense sedatives for animals that are to be transported. Little is known about the effects of sedation on animals that are under the stress of transportation and enclosed in cages at 8,000 feet or higher, the altitude at which cargo holds are pressurized. Additionally, some animals react abnormally to sedatives.
Although animals may be excitable while being handled during the trip to the airport and prior to loading, they probably revert to a quiescent resting state in the dark, closed cargo hold, and the sedatives may have an excessive effect. JAVMA, Vol 207, No.l 6, September 15, 1995 "An animal's natural ability to balance and maintain equilibrium is altered under sedation," noted Dr. Patricia Olson, a director of the American Humane Association (AHA). "When the kennel is moved, a sedated animal may not be able to brace and prevent injury." Increased altitude can also create respiratory and cardiovascular problems for dogs and cats that are sedated or tranquilized. Brachycephalic (pug or snub nosed) dogs and cats are especially affected. Insight, May/June 1997
Rather than tranquilizing, pre-condition your pet to its travel container. According to the Air Transport Association, "As far in advance of the trip as possible, let your pet get to know the flight kennel. Veterinarians recommend leaving it open in the house with an old sock or other familiar object inside so that your pet will spend time in the kennel. It is important for your dog or cat to be as relaxed as possible during the flight." "Air Travel for your Dog or Cat", Air Transport Assn of America, Sept 1991 From the International Air Transport Association: "The airline industry continues to warn owners and veterinarians against the use of sedatives/tranquilizers for dogs and cats being transported by air.
The effect of sedating drugs are unpredictable at air pressures inside an aircraft, which are equivalent to 8,000 ft altitude. At this pressure, the physiologic changes from sedatives/tranquilizers may be enhanced. There have been a number of instances where sedated pets traveling by air needed veterinary care to recover from the sedation. Some pets could not be revived. Occasionally, owners have given repeated doses to ensure a comfortable journey for their pet or when sedation did not follow a single dose. When questioned by airline personnel, many owners claim that their veterinarians had advised them to do so. Although sedatives/tranquilizers should never be repeated for animals traveling by air, sedated pets may have adverse reactions in pressurized aircraft even when single doses are administered at recommended dosages.
Remember that each airline has its own variations on regulations and services. For example, if your crate doesn’t meet its requirements, the airline may not allow you to use it. They may, however, allow your dog in the passenger cabin if your soft sided carrier fits under the seat in front of you.
When making your reservations, you must make reservations for your dog. There are restrictions on the number of animals permitted on each flight. They are accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.
If you plan to travel by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Only dogs under 20 pounds are permitted on Amtrak trains (There is also a $25 fee). Dogs are not allowed on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.
You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.
campgrounds -
Most all accept pets. our experience camping has been no extra fee. you will be expected to clean up after your dog and not allow it to be a nuisance to other campers. {simply put - proper etiquette for the dog owner}
Some state parks want to limit the number of dogs you bring to their campground. Same with some national parks. Check the rules for each place you intend to stay or check for a state by state listing of the rules if you are not sure . We have a large camper and have taken some of the 'kids' with us to shows / festivals/ etc.
For in the camper you have to decide what you want. We have a few crates that stack to keep the younger 'kids' contained and out of trouble. The grown dogs take over the couch or the bed or whatever they feel like plopping themselves down. I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking. the same food for the same reasons. you can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc for your needs.
tents vs campers
It has been a few years since we tent camped but a couple comments. A crate for your dog or pups since a tent wall is not a proper barrier for an untrained pup. Our adults are happy enough with their own bedding and trusted in the tent with us. I would never leave a dog unattended in a tent for safety sake.
In warm weather - your dog gets hot same as you. Selecting a shady spot and a small fan can help. For non electric camping I have a foldout battery fan. Solar rechargeable options exist. I mention these so you know the exist to do your own research
In cold weather. of more importance to small dogs and young pups. warmth is critical. going beyond the little doggie coats which can help them keep warm the same as you wear a jacket. products for cold weather camping exist. We used to have a catalytic heater - a little pricey but safe. Mr Heater as a brand has a range of sizes starting with a nice small heater that goes on the quart size propane bottle. ( please research heaters to fit your needs - some small ones can be hung in the tent. Others have nice bases to make them stable. Pups should be crated to ensure they don't knock over a heater )
again not an endorsement although we do have one similar. info provided as thought provoking. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DD6C4MY/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
for camping with access to electric it gets cheaper and simpler -a small ceramic heater can be a nice option.
If you are fine in your sleeping bag without additional 'area' heat but are traveling with a small pup - a normal heating pad ( Be sure it is not one that has a short timer but one that stays on - I would check to see what level warms the crate interior but will suggest medium to not over heat the pup or burn out the pad if under the crate) under the pups crate can provide enough warmth. cover the crate with a blanket - consider one of the Mylar blankets underneath as ground radiant barrier. Mylar blankets are good under your sleeping bags and a must for a winter travel emergency in the car. You can get the pocket version inexpensively and they are extremely lightweight yet their apparent flimsiness belies their effectiveness. Except for a hiking lightweight pack prefer the heavier version ( I like ours = this blanket - https://www.amazon.com/Grabber-Outdoors-Original-Weather-Blanket/dp/B002CQUA28/ref=sr_1_7_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281087&sr=1-7&keywords=mylar+blanketDO ) we keep a couple in the car for winter emergencies. ( I recommend a winter emergency travel pack in your car - you can research appropriate things for your climate. Please consider your dog in your packing items )
Do NOT encase the crate with a non breathable blanket like the Mylar. over the sides and back - ok. a normal blanket over the front ( large towel works )
Hiking
Depending on your situation - such as backpacking. Products like collapsible food and water bowls or even fabric bowls exist for space and weight. Pups can't be expected to hike a long distance like an adult dog can. consider a back / front pack for you to wear for your small dog or pup. Same rules apply to your dog as would a child. Don't set out on a 50 mile hike without being sure your dog is in physical shape for it
NOT endorsing and I have never used one but have seen similar in use... providing a link to stimulate your search ideas
https://www.amazon.com/Pettom-Carrier-Soft-sided-Outdoor-Backpack/dp/B01CFKO774/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1481278310&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=dog+backpack+carrier&psc=1
taking this one step further - consider the weather and pups comfort. in cold weather consider the hand / foot heaters such as hot hands - some are good for up to 10 hours and do not give off fumes. a nice heater for your pocket that is reuseable runs on butane. not a brand endorsement but for your edification https://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Warmer-Polish-Chrome-Lighter/dp/B000KGET4C/ref=sr_1_sc_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281479&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=butant+hand+heat
Dog breeding - stud service and a little on estrus cycle in your girl please see our stud service page
Early Neuter Doubles The Risk Of Hip Dysplasia and other concerns In Dogs
The results of a number of publications are briefly
summarized here regarding the areas of orthopedics, cancer, behavior, and other health considerations. I've condensed a lot if this from veterinary practice news to address the more pertinent facts. I encourage you to research this further when making a decision on when to spay / neuter your pup. I personally will recommend a minimum of 1 year of age.
Orthopedic Considerations
Bitches spayed at 7 weeks had significantly
delayed closure of growth plates as compared to those spayed at
7 months, and those spayed at 7 months had significantly delayed closure of growth plates as compared to those left intact.
In a study of 1444 Golden Retrievers, bitches and dogs spayed or neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered after a year of age.
In a study of 203 agility dogs, the tibia and radius and ulna were significantly longer than the femur and humerus, respectively, in dogs that were spayed or neutered at or prior to 8 months of age as compared to intact dogs.
Several studies have shown that spayed and neutered dogs have a significantly higher prevalence of CCL rupture even when controlling for body size.
Dogs that were neutered at least 6 months prior to a diagnosis of
hip dysplasia were 1.5 times more likely to develop hip dysplasia than
sexually intact dogs.
Spayed/neutered dogs had 3.1 times higher incidence of patellar luxation
Dogs that have been spayed or neutered at or before puberty can
often be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrower
chests and narrower skulls than intact dogs of the same breed This differential
growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months, prior to a dog being spayed or neutered, but the tibia ( which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age) continues to elongate for several months after that point because of the removal of the sex hormones, then the relationship between the femur and tibia will be different than what was genetically determined. This may result in an abnormal angle at the stifle and a longer (and therefore heavier) tibia placing increased stress on the cranial cruciate ligament (of the knee or stifle joint)
It is well known that spayed and neutered dogs are more likely to be overweight or obese than sexually intact dogs, and this can be a contributing factor to orthopedic diseases
Cancer Considerations
Spayed females had more than 5 times greater risk than intact bitches of developing
cardiac hemangiosarcoma and neutered males had 1.6 times higher risk than intact males had of developing cardiac hemangiosarcoma.
Spayed females had 2.2 times increased risk for developing splenic hemangiosarcoma
In a second study,
spayed/neutered dogs had a 2.2 times higher risk of developing
bone cancer than intact dogs.
Neutered dogs had a 2.8 times greater risk for developing any prostate than intact dogs.
Neutered dogs had a 4.3 times higher risk of developing prostate carcinoma
Neutered dogs had a 3.6 higher risk for developing transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder
than intact dogs and a 3 times greater risk of developing any bladder tumor.
Spayed/neutered dogs had more than 4 times greater risk for developing
transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder than intact dogs.
One study indicated a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer in female dogs after one heat cycle (8% increase), greater risk with two heats (26
% increase) and increased risk with each subsequent heat.
However, a recent systematic review of the publications that advocate neutering to reduce the risk of mammary tumors in dogs indicated that 9 of 13 reports had a high risk of bias and the remaining 4 had a moderate risk of bias. This study concluded that the evidence that neutering reduces the risk of mammary cancer is weak and do not constitute a sound basis for firm recommendations.
Additionally, at the time when several of these studies were conducted (late 1960s),
it was found that incidence rates for all malignant neoplasms were 4/100,000
female dogs. Mammary tumors accounted for half of these tumors, 8/100,000. Thus, the actual overall risk at that time of any bitch getting a mammary tumor was only 0.2%.
In any case, the figures for increased risk of mammary cancer must be compared with the 200 to 400% increased risk of other cancers in spayed females.
While about 30% of mammary cancers are malignant as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early, the prognosis is very good)
This is in comparison to the other cancers listed, such as hemangiosarcoma
and bladder cancer, which are often fatal. Given the balance of
cancer risks listed above, owners should strongly consider leaving the ovaries intact for at least two heat cycles. In addition, the veterinary field should be developing programs for regular examinations including imaging to facilitate early diagnosis of mammary
cancer in all intact female dogs, as has been performed in women for decades.
Behavior Considerations
Early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors, such as mounting. Significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs, with fearful behavior being most common in spayed bitches and aggression in neutered dogs.
In 2011, researchers at the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine found that cancer was the most common cause of death in older dogs. (It’s also the leading cause of death for 71 of the 82 breeds studied.)
what your vet says should take precedence over this - I will touch on some of the more common tumors/cancers as we've had several dogs over the past 4 decades with cancer and more with lipomas which while worrisome are not something to panic over -but should be monitored letting your vet know of rapid changes.
Not all tumors in dogs are cancerous, but all of them should be evaluated by your veterinarian.
Lipomas
Christine Swanson, DVM, a veterinary medical oncologist and assistant professor at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Michigan State University, calls this benign fatty tumor very common and notes that many different breeds are prone to developing them. Lipomas usually feel like a relatively soft mass that can be moved around underneath a dog’s skin.
They vary in size, and most of the time, they’re not a serious issue. A fine needle aspirate is done to confirm the benign nature of the tumor, and the tumor is usually only removed if it’s bothersome to the dog’s normal movement or activity
Mast Cell Tumors
mast cell tumors are one of the most common type of canine skin tumors. These grow quickly and are usually red and very itchy
Melanoma
This is a form of cancer of the pigmented cells of the skin of dogs, and like melanoma in people, these tumors are typically black or dark brown
Many skin masses are benign, but those in the mouth and at the nail bed can be very aggressive, she adds. In the case of the latter, the toe is typically swollen and may be painful. Following an x-ray, it may be determined that the affected toe must be amputated in order to fully remove the cancerous mass.
The risks with this specific type of melanoma don’t end there. It may metastasize to places such as the lymph nodes in the area and the lungs, liver, or other internal organs. Once evidence of such metastasis has been identified, some combination of surgery, radiation therapy, and immunotherapy (a therapeutic vaccine for canine melanoma has been licensed by the USDA)
Lymphoma
Lethargy, decreased appetite, and coughing may accompany swollen lymph nodes in dogs of all breeds with this type of cancer, although some individuals initially show little in the way of symptoms other than lymph node swelling. this swelling is most noticeable under the jaw, in front of the shoulders, and behind the knees.
A fine needle aspirate and/or tissue biopsy is done to reach a diagnosis. Then, a veterinary oncologist will conduct something called a staging test to determine where else in the body these cells might be. The most common treatment is chemotherapy.
Papilloma
These benign tumors are warts in dogs, and Swanson says they can be uncomfortable and problematic. When this infection develops, multiple hard, pale, cauliflower-like warts are noted typically on the lips, inside the mouth, and around the eyes. The warts can be painful and severe infections can make chewing and swallowing difficult.
Papillomas will go away after a few weeks, sometimes months—though if they’re causing major problems for the dog in question, they can and should be removed by a veterinarian.
These benign tumors are caused by a virus (called papillomavirus) that is transmitted by direct contact with an infected dog or contaminated objects like bedding or toys. While it’s best to keep affected dogs isolated from unaffected ones, the incubation period often lasts months, so by the time symptoms make themselves known, it might have already spread to other dogs in a household.
Discussion of behavioral considerations
A number of the early studies claiming to show positive behavioral effects of spay/neuter were significantly flawed.
For example, one of the most often quoted publications to support improvements in behavior particularly aggression, after gonadectomy does not actually provide any statistical analysis. Additionally, 88% of owners of dogs in this study stated that their reason for castrating the dog was to attempt to resolve an existing behavior problem. Owners were also surveyed regarding the dog’s behavior a mean of 27 months post castration.
These factors likely introduced a significant amount of bias.
Another performed statistical analysis but showed that the age when the dog was neutered was not correlated with the degree of improvement.
Most critically neither of these two studies included a control group of intact dogs. One of the more important undesirable behavioral effects of spay/neuter was a finding of a significantly lowered energy level. This was shown in a study that was well controlled and examined over 3500 dogs
Other Health Considerations
Female, and sometimes male, dogs that are spayed/neutered before puberty have an increased risk of urinary incontinence and it is more severe in bitches spayed earlier
Spayed female dogs displayed a significantly higher risk of hypothyroidism
when compared to intact females.
A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism.
Neutered male and spayed female dogs had higher relative risks of developing hypothyroidism than intact females.
Neutered females had a 22 times increased risk of developing fatal acute
pancreatitis (multivariate analysis) as compared to intact females.
Risk of adverse reactions to vaccines is 27 to 38% greater in neutered dogs as compared to intact.
Buying your pup and how payments work please see my buying your pup page
Loss of your best friend and adding a new pup
I miss dogs gone 50 + years - even though it is a fact of life I still can't help shedding a tear at times. Some folks want to wait until the old dogs has passed to bring a new pup in. I can understand and you know your dog best. However, many many times when folk have brought in the new pup anyway the pup can learn many things from the 'boss' and the the 'boss' may 'enjoy' the company and opportunity to 'teach' the new pup with maybe a little rebound in liveliness.
What Stools Can Tell You About Your Dog’s Health
(we've gotten strange looks from friends for commenting on what nice poop - seriously as breeders / owners we watch these things. - yes the exciting times watching dogs 'dump' )
The causes for acute diarrhea in the absence of other signs are varied and include dietary indiscretion (for example: getting into the garbage), gastrointestinal bacteria including Campylobacter, and GI parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, and protozoal infections. In most cases of acute, self-limiting diarrhea, a cause is never identified.
Many things can cause diarrhea or, less frequently, constipation. Some things, like eating too much grass, are not serious at all. Others can be a sign of a life-threatening problem, such as an indigestible object (like a rock) lodged in the stomach, or a disease like cancer.
If your dog seems otherwise normal, and he is currently on monthly parasite preventative medication, then symptomatic treatment at home is appropriate. Usually most diarrhea will run its course within two to four days, although in some cases, it can last longer. If there are any other signs of illness like vomiting, loss of appetite, depression, or pain, a veterinary trip is in order.
The consistency and color of diarrhea reveals a lot about the cause of the problem and what is happening in your dog. Take note of the color, consistency, and anything else that might help when you describe the symptoms to your veterinarian. In most cases, diarrhea will resolve after a few days of home treatment, but it’s a good idea to give your vet a call if it continues for a long period or has any one of several signs that may point to a serious problem.
a few things to note
Dietary indiscretion: Eating too much, eating garbage, or spoiled food. There’s actually a name for it in veterinary circles—“garbage toxicosis” or “garbage gut.”
some dogs may have a food intolerance or allergies to some ingredients. foods may have different bases such as rice, corn even one like bil-jac is more beet based. see my notes on grain free ( not all good )
regional foods and different companies may have different base mixes. I had one dog could not tolerate red dye. a customer has a dog that will lose her hair with chicken. you will learn your dogs needs as they can vary just like people. most get along fine on about any decent food.
Poisonous substances or plants
Swallowing an indigestible foreign body, like a toy, socks, sticks. one of our customers had to have surgery after shredding and eating a rope bone. we had one swallow a fish hook at the lake since she liked to eat worms (no acounting for some dogs taste). that passed after a few days of feeding her a lot of bread to bulk thnigs up and help it pass. such fun hosing down her stools until we found the hook. it beat the alternative of surgery which could have been a real possibiity
diarrhea that develops suddenly in an otherwise healthy dog is often due to scavenging behavior, Stress or emotional upset can upset a dog just like it an people. a sudden change in diet, or viral, Bacterial infections, such as salmonella or parasitic infections.
Change in diet: It may take a few days for a dog’s digestive system to adapt to new proteins. when changing your dogs diet mix the new food with the old in greater purportions over a week at least to have less impact on your dogs system.
Illnesses, such as kidney and liver disease, colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, and cancer
Antibiotics and other medications can kill the beneficial bacteria in you or your dogs digestive tract. consider adding a probiotic or live culture yogurt
More chronic diarrhea can be caused by dietary allergies or intolerances, stress, some types of parasites (e.g., Giardia, hookworms, roundworms and whipworms), bacterial infections, pancreatic disease, inflammatory bowel disease, irritable bowel syndrome, some types of cancer, and diseases outside of the gastrointestinal tract (e.g., liver failure or heart disease). These type of health issues will need to be discussed with your veterinarian and can require prescription pet medication.
if your dog is very young, very old, has a preexisting health condition, call your veterinarian for advice on how to handle the diarrhea. These individuals can become severely debilitated even when suffering from relatively mild diarrhea. Also, call your veterinarian if your dog’s diarrhea is frequent and/or very watery - contains more than just a streak of blood - is dark and tarry or if your dog is vomiting profusely, lethargic, depressed, and/or is in pain. These can be signs of potentially serious health conditions.
Home Remedies
Make sure the dog has access to plenty of clean water to avoid dehydration. Encourage the dog to drink. If needed, offer dilute chicken, beef broth or Pedialyte in addition to the water.
Give the dog a small meal of boiled white meat chicken (no bones or skin) and white rice. This can be the dog's diet until the stool consistency returns to normal.
If the diarrhea continues for more than 3 dayss or your dog’s condition worsens at any time, call your vet
A great many cases are mild and may be treated without a trip to the office. They may respond to a regimen of very basic treatments such as.
Fasting
Withholding food for 12 to 24 hours, and providing water in small amounts frequently, can clear the cause of the upset and allow the gastrointestinal tract to settle. It’s usually the first line of attack for the runs. Before you decide on a fast, be sure that your dog is healthy enough to endure it. Puppies, and elderly dogs, for example, need nutrients. Also, a fast may not be appropriate for little dogs, who do not have the physical reserves of their larger cousins.
Diarrhea can lead to dehydration, so make sure to give your dog access to water at all times. Many people also offer unflavored Pedialyte to maintain electrolyte balance. diluted chicken broth may be more palatable - watch of for the salted kind if buying pre -made broth.
After a fast, food is usually introduced slowly and many people start with binders, which can normalize stool consistency. Some tried-and-true methods include:
Rice water: Boil high-quality rice in a lot of water, remove the grains, and offer the dog the creamy white soup that’s left. A splash of broth or a bit baby food will make it more palatable.
White rice - cooked a tad dry to help absorb moisture in your dogs or yours... digestive tract. a little lean cooked hamburger or chicken without the skin can make it more enticing.
Canned pumpkin (plain, not prepared pie filling) is effective for both diarrhea and constipation. Probiotics, live bacteria that aid digestion (these are also found in yogurt - read the label for live culture) don't give a lot as most dogs are lactose intolerant past early puppyhood.
Boiled potatoes, without skin
Plain protein sources such as egg (prepared with no butter or oil) or chicken (without skin)
Herbs, such as fennel, ginger or papaya have gut-soothing properties
Specially-formulated dog foods: Some manufacturers offer foods that can sooth stomach problems. You may need to obtain these from your vet.
Over-the-counter medications for humans may also be effective for doggie diarrhea, but should be given with caution and you should talk to your vet before using them. kaopectate is a good one. an old remedy is unflavored 'jello' such as knox gelatin to drink before it 'sets up'
Avoid using human remedies such as loperamide, also called Immodium. This medication has an opioid in it, and it is easy to overdose a dog unintentionally.
If your dog continues to do well other than diarrhea, three to four days of at-home treatment is appropriate.
Methods that work for one dog may not help another, so you might need to do a little experimentation to find the right formula. It might also be helpful to write down what works and what doesn’t so you’ll know what to do the next time you find yourself mopping up a mess.
Once you find a recovery diet that agree with your dog, and doesn’t cause a relapse, you can slowly increase the portions over a period of days, and then start to add small quantities of your dog’s regular food, until things are back to normal.
Feeding a sick dog.
Decreased appetite, upset stomach, diarrhea, and vomiting make caring for a sick dog stressful for both you and your pet. A bland diet can help relieve some of these symptoms while also giving your dog the nutrition he needs to recover.
some recipes for dogs with mild stomach upset, including gas, nausea, constipation, and diarrhea. note - checking with your vet to rule out anything more serious that the occasional off day or food sensitivity is prudent
chicken and rice for dogs
Chicken and rice are prime ingredients in many dog foods, and these mild foods sit well on upset canine stomachs. Plus, this bland meal is easy to prepare. All you need are boneless, skinless chicken breasts and rice. White rice is lower in nutritional value than brown rice, but its blandness makes it more suitable for upset stomachs. Oils, butter, and added seasonings can irritate your dog’s stomach and make the problem worse, so stick with plain boiled chicken and rice. Make sure the chicken is cooked thoroughly and cut or shred it into small, bite-sized pieces for your dog, since enthusiastic canines might choke on this unexpected treat.
** see my notes on how we prepare chicken for us and the dogs
chicken breast
Shredded chicken is easy on upset stomachs and acts as a huge eating incentive for dogs with decreased appetites. Plain, unseasoned, boiled, shredded chicken is easy to digest and is packed with essential vitamins, minerals, fats, and amino acids, making it a great snack for dogs feeling under the weather. Chicken keeps in the fridge for three-to-four days, or you can freeze it for two-to-six months. or can it for years to come.
sweet potatoes
Dogs love this orange vegetable. Not only is it a great treat, but it also has many health benefits. Sweet potatoes are frequently used in dog food products because they are high in fiber and full of vitamin B6, vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium, and manganese.
The fiber in sweet potatoes helps regulate dogs with intestinal difficulties like loose stools or constipation. Unseasoned, plain, peeled, cooked, and mashed sweet potatoes make a healthy addition to your pet’s existing diet. Talk to your vet about how much sweet potato to feed your dog. If you plan on continuing to use sweet potatoes as a dietary supplement, scoop them into tablespoon-size balls and freeze them for convenience.
Pumpkin
Pumpkin and sweet potato have similar digestive health benefits. Like sweet potatoes, pumpkin is also high in fiber, which helps regulate canine digestive systems. Cooked, peeled, unsalted, and unseasoned pumpkin contains vitamin E, thiamin, niacin, vitamin B6, folate, iron, magnesium, phosphorous, dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin C, riboflavin, potassium, copper, and manganese, giving your dog a nutritional boost along with a little digestive help.
Adding pumpkin to your dog’s meal usually helps regulate mild constipation. Veterinarians recommend one to four tablespoons of pumpkin, depending on your dog’s size. Canned pumpkin is a convenient alternative to preparing pumpkin yourself, as long as it is unseasoned. Feeding your dog a can of pumpkin pie filling might end up sending you back to the vet, as the spices and sugars could irritate your dog’s stomach and cause further complications.
Bone Broth
Bone broth is a very mild, liquid meal that sits easily in upset canine stomachs. It is also a nutritious and delicious way to add moisture and flavor to dry food and encourage dogs with reduced appetites to eat. To make a bone broth for dogs, fill a crock-pot with beef marrow bones or bones with plenty of joints, like turkey and chicken legs. Cover the bones with 2-3 inches of water, cover, and cook on low for 20-24 hours. ( pressure cooking speeds this process greatly ) - ( and for your canning folks - making a big batch and putting some up for later use for you or your dog as a nicety to have on the shelf )
Let the broth cool for 2-to-3 hours in the fridge to let the fat form a hardened layer at the top. Scoop it off and store the jelly-like broth in the refrigerator. If you want to use the broth to add moisture to dry food, microwave the broth just long enough for it to go from a semi-solid jelly to a liquid, but not long enough to get hot, as hot broths can burn your dog’s mouth. Freeze the broth in small containers like an ice cube tray for later use.
While bone broth is full of healthy bone marrow, cooked small bones themselves most dangerous. Make sure you remove all of the bones from your broth before serving. Save yourself a trip to the emergency room and strain the broth just to make sure no small bones escaped your notice. HOWEVER... pressure cooking bones to the point the crush easily between your fingers makes them a safe and nutritious alternative
Baby Food
Veterinary emergency hospitals often use certain types of baby food to feed the dogs in their care. Baby food is very easy to swallow and digest and is a great way to give oral medications. Veterinarians recommend feeding Stage II meat-based baby foods like chicken, lamb, and turkey, as long as the baby food does not contain any garlic or onion powder.
canning chicken
we raise most of our own food organically since I am admittedly anti-chemical to a point. we use those large turkey cookers to cook perhaps a dozen chickens over night ( you can use store bought chicken hopefully finding a nice sale )
basic steps are
cook until practically falling off the bone
let cool
de-bone
can the meat - see most universities canning procedures for caning meat and adjust for your altitude. 75 minutes a pint and 90 a quart. look up the pressure for your altitude.
toss remaining skin - bones - meat stuck to bones - etc into your pressure cooker. what you want is the bones to crush easily between your fingers.
strain broth off and can separately for you or your dogs use. can or freeze the rest. noting a salmon can with the sloped side make an easy to remove "hockey puck" frozen treat for your dog. we save the canned product to mix in with some rice or barley or? for cooking in the winter on the wood stove to give the dogs a warm treat meal.
this next about DCM is close to my heart as we just lost a great friend to young to DCM - not food related to be fair but..... it hurts
Raw yeast
Raw yeast cells multiply too quickly for dogs’ gastrointestinal tracts. When dogs swallow unbaked dough, it can continue to rise, creating a risk of blockage or even rupture of the dog’s GI tract. In instances when a very large amount of yeast is eaten, the yeast also ferments inside the dog, producing alcohol, in which case alcohol poisoning can occur. use your best judgement on when to involve the vet.
If you bake breads from scratch, or have yeast in your kitchen for any other reason, remember to keep it – rising dough in particular – in a safe, dog-proof location.
I admit a lot of this is copied I've added it just to provide some potentially important info:
Fruits, nuts & Vegetables
Apples – Yes. Apples are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, as well as fiber for your dog. They are low in protein and fat, making them the perfect snack for senior dogs. Just be sure to remove the seeds and core first. Try them frozen for an icy warm weather snack. Read More >
Bananas – Yes. In moderation, bananas are a great low-calorie treat for dogs. They’re high in potassium, vitamins, biotin, fiber, and copper. They are low in cholesterol and sodium, but because of their high sugar content, bananas should be given as a treat, not part of your dog’s regular diet.
Watermelon – Yes. It’s important to remove the rind and seeds first, as they can cause intestinal blockage, but watermelon is otherwise safe for dogs. It’s full of vitamin A, B-6, and C, as well as potassium. Watermelon is 92 percent water, so it’s a great way to keep your dog hydrated on hot summer days. Read more >
Grapes – No. Grapes and raisins have proved to be very toxic for dogs no matter the dog’s breed, sex, or age. In fact, grapes are so toxic that they can lead to acute sudden kidney failure. Definitely skip this dangerous treat. Read More >
Strawberries – Yes. Strawberries are full of fiber and vitamin C. Along with that, they also contain an enzyme that can help whiten your dog’s teeth as he or she eats them. They are high in sugar though, so be sure to give them in moderation. Read More >
Oranges – Yes. Small dogs can have up to 1/3 of a full-size orange, while large dogs can eat the whole thing. While the peel isn’t toxic to them, vets recommend tossing the peel and just giving your dog the inside of the orange, minus the seeds, as the peel is much more rough on their digestive systems than the fleshy inside of the orange.
Blueberries – Yes. Blueberries are a superfood rich in antioxidants, which prevent cell damage in humans and canines alike. They’re packed with fiber and phytochemicals as well. Teaching your dog to catch treats in the air? Try blueberries as an alternative to store-bought treats. Read More >
Carrots – Yes. Carrots are an excellent low-calorie snack that is high in fiber and beta-carotene, which produces vitamin A. Plus, crunching on the orange snacks is great for your dog’s teeth. Read More >
Tomatoes – No. While the ripened fruit of the tomato plant (the red part humans normally eat) is generally considered safe for dogs, the green parts of the plant contain a toxic substance called solanine. While a dog would need to eat a large amount for it to make him or her sick, it’s better to skip tomatoes all together just to be safe. Read More >
Pineapple – Yes. A few chunks of pineapple is a great sweet treat for dogs as long as the prickly outside is removed first. The tropical fruit is full of vitamins, minerals, and fiber. It also contains bromelain, an enzyme that makes it easier for dogs to absorb proteins. Read More >
Avocado – No. While avocado may be a healthy snack for dog owners, it should not be given to dogs at all. The pit, skin and leaves of avocados contain Persin, a toxin that often causes vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. The fleshy inside of the fruit doesn’t have as much Persin as the rest of the plant, but it is still too much for dogs to handle.
Broccoli – Yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to eat in very small quantities and is best served as an occasional treat. It is high in fiber and vitamin C and low in fat. On the surface, this makes it an appealing choice for dog owners looking for a healthy dog treat, but broccoli also contains a potentially harmful ingredient. Broccoli florets contain isothiocyanates, which can cause mild-to-potentially-severe gastric irritation in some dogs. Also, broccoli stalks have been known to cause obstruction in the esophagus.
Mushrooms – No. Wild mushrooms can be toxic for dogs. While only 50 to 100 of the 50,000 mushroom species worldwide are known to be toxic, the ones that are can really hurt your dog or even lead to death. Washed mushrooms from the supermarket could be OK, but it’s better to be safe than sorry; skip out on the fungi all together.
Cucumbers – Yes. Cucumbers are especially good for overweight dogs, as they hold little to no carbohydrates, fats, or oils and can even boost energy levels. They’re loaded with vitamins K, C, and B1, as well as potassium, copper, magnesium, and biotin.
Celery – Yes. In addition to vitamins A, B, and C, this crunchy green snack contains the nutrients needed to promote a healthy heart and even fight cancer. As if that wasn’t enough, celery also known to freshen doggy breath.
Onions – No. Onions, leeks, and chives are part of a family of plants called Allium that is poisonous to most pets, especially cats. Eating onions can cause your dog’s red blood cells to rupture, and can also cause vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, and nausea. Poisoning onions is more serious in Japanese breeds of dogs such as Akitas and Shiba Inus, but all dogs are very susceptible to it.
Pears – Yes. Pears are a great snack because they’re high in copper, vitamins C and K, and fiber. It’s been suggested that eating the fruit can reduce the risk of having a stroke by 50 percent. Just be sure to cut pears into bite-size chunks and remove the pit and seeds first, as the seeds contain traces of cyanide.
Potatoes – Yes. It’s fine to give your dog plain potatoes every once and a while, but only if they’re cooked, as raw potatoes can be rough on the stomach. A washed, peeled, plain boiled, or baked potato contains lots of iron for your pet. Avoid mashed potatoes because they often contain butter, milk, or seasonings.
Cherries – No. With the exception of the fleshy part around the seed, cherry plants contain cyanide and are toxic to dogs. Cyanide disrupts cellular oxygen transport, which means that your dog’s blood cells can’t get enough oxygen. If your dog eats cherries, be on the lookout for dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums, as these may be signs of cyanide poisoning.
Peaches – Yes. Small amounts of cut-up peaches are a great source of fiber and vitamin A, and can even help fight infections, but just like cherries, the pit does contain cyanide. As long as you completely cut around the pit first, fresh peaches can be a great summer treat – just not canned peaches, as they usually contain high amounts of sugary syrups.
Asparagus – No. While asparagus isn’t necessarily unsafe for dogs, there’s really no point in giving it to them. It’s too tough to be eaten raw, and by the time you cook it down so it’s soft enough for dogs to eat, asparagus loses the nutrients it contains. If you’re determined to give your dogs vegetables, go for something that will actually benefit them.
Sweet potatoes – Yes. Sweet potatoes are packed with nutrients, including fiber, beta carotene, and vitamins B-6 and C. Just like with regular potatoes, only give your dog washed, peeled, cooked, and unseasoned sweet potatoes that have cooled down, and definitely avoid sugary sweet potato pies and casseroles.
Raspberries – Yes. Raspberries are fine in moderation. They contain antioxidants that are great for dogs. They’re low in sugar and calories, but high in fiber, manganese, and vitamin C. Raspberries are especially good for senior dogs because they have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help take pain and pressure from joints. However, they do contain slight amounts of the toxin Xylitol, so limit your dog to less than a cup of raspberries at a time.
Mango – Yes. This sweet summer treat is packed with four, yes four different vitamins: vitamins A, B6, C, and E. They also have potassium and both beta-carotene and alpha carotene. Just remember, as with most fruits, to remove the hard pit first, as it contains small amounts of cyanide and can become a choking hazard.
macadamia nut
The good news is that we have no documented cases of macadamia nut poisoning that has led to death. It alleviates after it passes through the dog – in around 12 to 36 hours. The bad news is symptoms are dramatic. Hind-end weakness, lethargy, depression, vomiting, and diarrhea all come after eating as little as 1 gram of macadamia nuts per pound of a dog’s body weight.
Glucosamine & Tumeric for your older dog and you....
Like people, many dogs suffer from arthritis, especially as they age. This painful condition occurs when cartilage, the cushioning between the bones, begins to thin and wear away and the ends of the bones start to rub against each other. It may be caused by trauma, disease, or wear and tear that comes with use over years.
While there is no cure for arthritis, some treatments can lessen pain and improve mobility
No one knows exactly what the mechanism of action is, but the supplement, an amino sugar, appears to improve the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, one of the building blocks of cartilage. This is the tough connective tissue that cushions bones at the joints. The theory is that the supplement somehow stimulates chondrocytes or DNA activity that protects against joint degradation.
cartilage consists of several different cells, one of which is chondrocytes. Chondrocytes are responsible for synthesizing new cartilage. Through normal wear, cartilage is constantly being broken down and replaced. When a dog has hip dysplasia or ages, the chondrocytes do not have the building blocks available to them to build enough new cartilage to keep up with the breakdown of the old cartilage. Glucosamine provides the building blocks to synthesize new cartilage. Glucosamine is the building block necessary for the production of the substances called glycosaminoglycans. The glycosaminoglycans are combined with hyaluronic acid to make the substance proteoglycans. The proteoglycans and collagen are the main structures of cartilage.
Chondroitin blocks destructive enzymes that break down cartilage in the joint.
Chondroitin also is one of the products necessary for the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans. But it probably plays a more important role by combating and neutralizing destructive enzymes in the joint. There is always a low level of destructive enzymes found in the joint, but when injury or abnormal wear occurs, the destructive enzymes and agents increase accelerating cartilage destruction. When chondroitin is added to the diet it helps to reduce the level of these destructive enzymes.Glucosamine supplements are said to alleviate the symptoms of joint damage by boosting the repair of damaged cartilage, the moist, spongy material that forms a cushion between joints. Cartilage cells are constantly turning over, and when cartilage is damaged, the joint becomes inflamed and releases enzymes that cause more damage. This starts a cycle of joint degeneration.
The supplement has been used in veterinary practices in Europe and the U.S. for about 20 years.
Pharmaceutical grade glucosamine and chondroitin are used for humans and are found in some veterinary products. It is perfectly safe to use human glucosamine in your pet, however, products made for animals contain ascorbic acid (vitamin c) to help in the uptake, in canines. ( we just add a vitamin c tablet to the daily pill(s) and 'cookie' for being good and 'taking your pill' ) {I give an all in one glucosamine chondroitin msm turmeric and add the 'c' as a separate pill for our older 'kids' and us older featherless bipeds}
Turmeric in conjunction with glucosamine can help in reducing joint pain effectively. Whether you use the capsule form or powder in your dogs food adding 1/8 tsp. fresh pepper to one teaspoon of turmeric has a synergistic effect (makes the turmeric more effective). check on line for dosages ( disclaimer being I am not a practicing veterinarian)
A short simple site with information - of course they want you to buy their turmeric... nuff said. https://yourolddog.com/benefits-turmeric-dogs/
In 2007, scientists at the College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Georgia, Athens, conducted a similar review of 16 clinical trials of treatments for osteoarthritis in dogs. There were 16 studies that looked at drugs, as well as supplements. They reported their results in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association and found that preparations containing glucosamine provided a "moderate level" of comfort and was on a par with some prescription drugs.
since it is a sugar-based substance, some veterinarians are wary about its use in dogs with diabetes.
Glucosamine and chondroitin are also included in dog foods formulated for senior and performance dogs, many of whom are at risk for joint disease and injury.
It may take weeks to see improvement, and veterinarians recommend evaluating the effects of the treatment after your dog has been taking it for about three months.
Dog toothpaste
comes in several canine-friendly flavors, like peanut butter and chicken, and both child-sized toothbrushes with soft bristles or finger brushes are appropriate to use when cleaning your dog’s teeth at home. Human toothpaste, however, contains ingredients like xylitol, which is toxic to dogs and should be avoided.
Your veterinarian’s insistence that your canine companion needs a dental cleaning addresses far more than the issue of a dog’s stinky breath. Poor dental hygiene can result in a host of medical problems. Some of the more common issues are gingivitis, periodontal disease, tooth loss, infection, and difficulty eating.
Plaque builds up on canine teeth, just like it does on human teeth. Over time, a buildup of plaque can lead to inflammation of the gums, called gingivitis. Dogs with gingivitis may have red, inflamed gums that bleed easily, and you may also notice bad breath. If left untreated, gingivitis can lead to periodontitis.
Periodontitis can cause destruction to the connective tissues surrounding the tooth and can also damage the bone. Most concerning, however, is the detrimental effects periodontitis can have on your dog’s heart, kidneys, and liver.
Dogs can also benefit from dental cleanings at the vet’s office. These in-depth procedures take place under anesthesia and remove plaque below the gum line, where toothbrushes can’t reach. Dental cleanings are especially important for dog breeds with genetic predispositions for dental disease, like many small breeds, or dogs fed wet food.
Dog colds are not contagious to humans.
Zoonotic diseases can be spread between animals and people. You can’t catch a cold from your dog, any more than your dog can pick up a human strain of a cold virus from you. However, dog colds and influenza are highly contagious between dogs, which means we have to be careful not to help transmit the germs.
Colds spread through saliva and aerosol droplets. If you’ve been in contact with a sick dog, you could bring those germs home to your own pups on your hands or clothing. Letting your dog drink out of an infected dog’s water bowl or play with infected toys also increases the risk of contagion. While colds are rarely life-threatening, they can pose risks for very young and very old dogs as they can in humans , as well as canines with suppressed immune systems.
Acral Lick Granulomas
Lick granulomas in dogs are caused by multiple factors. This condition is believed to be both physical and psychological in nature. Typically, lick granulomas occur because of boredom fear, anxiety or obsessive-compulsive disorder.
Underlying conditions that may trigger lick granulomas include:Stress, Allergies, Skin infections, Trauma–injury, Pain, Behavioral abnormalities and Osteoarthritis
The most common cause for acral lick granulomas is allergy, either environmental or food sensitivity. This condition occurs mainly in medium- to large-breed dogs, most commonly affecting:
A complete physical examination may help your vet determine the underlying cause of the skin lesion. They may also recommend an x-ray of the limb to check for any arthritis or other bone/joint condition that could be causing pain or discomfort.
Treatment for a lick granuloma is largely based on the underlying cause. An the ‘cone of shame’ (Elizabethan collar and many new options are great – I like the old style shape but in a soft version) is extremely important to prevent further self-harm—both before you can see the vet and afterward, during treatment. Bandages should be placed only with the guidance of your veterinarian, because covering an infected wound traps in moisture, often prevents healing, and can make the condition worse. Added note on bandage – we’ve seen blockages from eaten bandage material.
If your vet suspects that your dog has a food allergy, a food trial will begin, placing your dog on a very limited ingredient diet. It is essential that during this time, all other foods be prohibited from your dog’s diet, including treats. Medications such as antibiotics, antifungals, anti-inflammatory and pain medications, anti-anxiety drugs, and/or antihistamines might be prescribed. Topical therapy with creams, wipes, or shampoos is often recommended to help with infection.
Warranty
note on warranty medications - we routinely send home the next round of de-wormer / bacterial parasite control medications to help ensure your pup stays healthy. change of environment stress such as change of water / food / surroundings can allow any parasites present to have a greater impact on your pup. we start treating pups at 3 weeks old and every couple weeks until they go home. pups get parasites as part of being a dog and it is something you will need to address as treatment and or prevention for your dogs life. we've heard of people disregarding any further vaccinations or parasite control as they say their pup had that before they got him/her and that was it. parasite control and vaccinations are something that need to be addressed as a lifetime commitment for the healthy life of your pet.
PUPPY WARRANTY
Buyer has been advised of any pertinent medical history and current status of immunity.
Your puppy has a 72-hour warranty against infectious communicable diseases and as such buyer is urged to have their pup checked by a licensed veterinarian within 72 hours from the time date buyer takes possession of pup. Parasites are excluded from the warranty. While we do routinely check and treat as needed worms and protozoan may be common in the course of a pup’s life. In the event puppy is found to be sufficiently medically unsound as to warrant return, the buyer shall immediately notify the seller. Should a warranty claim ever be made a written statement (legible) of all findings and records on pup since leaving breeder shall be sent directly from the examining vet. In the unlikely event a pup were to die - laboratory confirmation of cause of death or a necropsy will be required. It is the buyer’s monetary responsibility to return said pup to seller. Puppy will be replaced with a like puppy as soon as one becomes available. Your pup is further warranted against life threatening congenital defects until a year old. In no case shall refund and /or compensation exceed price of pup. Abuse or accident voids warranty. It is clearly understood that the seller shall NOT assume liability for any veterinary expenses incurred by the buyer unless through prior arrangements.
Sale is to be considered initiated and finalized in Cumberland County Tennessee. This warranty is accepted as sole recourse.
D.O.B._______________ sex___ color__________________________
Price __________ date _________________ litter#________________
vaccinations ______________________________________________
Next vaccination due ___________________wormed_______________
Medications sent home if any _______________________________________
________________________________________________________
Buyer___________________________________________________
Address__________________________________________________
E-mail__________________________ phone ___________________
Seller ___________________ buyer____________________________
Please plan ahead to care for your dogs in natural disasters. Leaving this plan posted where another person can find it if needed. not that you need another thing stuck on the refrigerator but...
Individual dog owners can be disabled by accidents or illness; therefore, owners are urged to advise neighbors, family, and friends about how to care for their dogs in emergency situations. we've always suggested a "Godparent'' for your dogs, preferably not a close relative as a family emergency could involve everyone rushing to the family need or heaven forbid funeral. Perhaps someone you can exchange pet sitting duties with that your dog will know beforehand. Certain times of the year a spot in a boarding just will not be available on a last minute notice.
Create an Emergency Evacuation Plan for You and Your Dog
Tornadoes, earthquakes, floods – emergencies strike out of the blue. Evacuating your home is often necessary for safety reasons. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog behind in the danger zone. But emergencies can be highly stressful, and without careful planning, you may find yourself in a panic with no clue about what to do. Creating an emergency evacuation plan will help you handle any unexpected disaster calmly and safely. Pet disaster preparedness means incorporating your dog and other pets into your evacuation plan so you’re prepared to meet their needs and keep them free from harm.
Understand the Pets Act
You have a legal right to include your pets in an evacuation thanks to the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act (also known as the Pets Act), a bipartisan initiative that resulted in significant changes to federal and state emergency planning laws after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. The Pets Act requires states seeking assistance from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to accommodate service animals and pets in their evacuation plans in the case of a disaster. As a result, there are now many federal and state laws that include specifications for the evacuation, rescue, and recovery of animals as well as provisions for sheltering, identification, and tracking.
Create Your Own Emergency Evacuation Plan
Although over 30 states have laws addressing animals in evacuation planning, you can’t skip developing your own household evacuation plans. Follow the instructions of local authorities in the moment but be prepared with what you need and where to go. You should be able to leave your home at a moment’s notice with your family and pets accounted for. Being prepared will help you think clearly and keep you calm during a crisis. This is important because your dog can sense your emotions. If you panic, it will agitate your dog. Therefore, pet disaster preparedness will not only reduce your anxiety but will help reduce your pet’s anxiety too.
It’s not enough to leave dogs in a safe place to fend for themselves during an emergency. They can get lost, injured, or worse. Evacuating together can save your dog’s life. Otherwise, you put yourself and first responders in danger as attempts are made to save your pet.
Remember that you might not be home when disaster strikes. Plan for being away from your pets and/or being unable to get to them. Consider making arrangements with someone who can get to your dog when you can’t like a neighbor, dog walker, pet sitter, or local doggy daycare. And place a rescue alert sticker at your front door to let people know there are pets inside your house. Be sure it includes the types and number of pets you own as well as your veterinarian’s phone number. If you are able to take your pets with you during an evacuation, please write “Evacuated” across the sticker if time allows so rescue workers don’t waste precious time at your home.
Prepare Your Dog for Disaster
DISASTER PLANNING
I speak from experience on disasters - hurricanes, floods and a fire. don't wait for the SHTF (Look it up if you need to )
PLEASE Don’t leave your pets home! If it is unsafe for you to stay it is unsafe for them too.
I can't stress enough that you do not leave them at home to fend for themselves. They’re a part of the family after all.
Be sure to bring along your pets' medication, (and yours),food, and a few toys or treasured items so they're comfortable when they reach their temporary lodging.
Whether it’s wildfires, hurricanes, tornados, or derecho, the world is full of natural disasters.
The key is to be proactive. Don’t begin the process once you see floodwaters or get the hurricane warning.
Start gathering your pet’s “ B.O.B. bug out bag” before there’s any hint of a disaster, setting aside items so you can gather them quickly in case of an emergency. include leashes and harnesses as you normally use, carriers, food, water, and bowls, and very importantly any medication your pet needs.
Have a list of your pet’s medical and vaccination records in case you need to visit an unfamiliar veterinarian or boarding facility. Be sure that your contact information linked to your pet's microchip is updated, and that your pet has their ID tags. It’s also a good idea to carry photos of them in case you get separated.
When a disaster is on the way, place your pet’s emergency kit near the door, like your B.O.B . We keep a version of this in the B.O.V. ( bug out vehicle )Or if you plan to shelter in place, have the kit close to the basement, storm shelter, or wherever you’ve decided that you will all be safest.
Like fire drills, you can practice evacuating (or seeking shelter) with your pet so you can see how they react. Some pets can try to hide when they see their owner hurry around nervously or when they hear a smoke or fire alarm. That can be a big problem if you need to leave fast.
In case of an evacuation, you’ll also want to map out where you might be headed. Have back up plan as some route may be (in my terms FUBAR – you military folks understand)
Look online to find resources specific to your area. Available pet friendly shelters – lodging that may still have openings that you can book. Friends or family that will take you in – assuming they are out of the danger area
Once you may return home be aware there may be damage resulting in smells and unfamiliar surroundings as things likely have changed and the more sensitive pet may be upset. Fences and gates might also be damaged. A thorough check of the grounds is in order before allowing your pet to return to the normal routine. Any water or food supplies left behind should be checked for elimination and replacement for safety
Make sure your dog is ready for anything. First, keep your dog’s vaccinations up to date in case your dog must stay at a shelter during an evacuation. Second, microchip your dog. A microchip allows veterinarians and shelter workers to scan your pet and access your contact information. It could be essential to being reunited with your dog if you get separated. Keep your dog’s microchip registration up to date with your most recent phone number and address. But don’t forget the low-tech option too. Your dog should be wearing a collar with up-to-date identification tags. Finally, have copies of all your dog’s important documents. Consider including:
vaccination certificates and most recent heartworm test results.
information about any health concerns, medications, or behavior problems.
contact information for your veterinarian.
identification information including proof of ownership and a current photo of you with your dog in case your dog gets lost.
You also need to have your dog’s travel equipment at hand, preferably in an uncluttered area near your door. You should have a leash ready to go as well as equipment for safe car travel such as a harness and pet seat belt strap. Also consider buying a pet carrier for each of your dogs. You can use the carrier for transport but also as a safe place for your dog to rest during stops or at your final destination. Make sure to write your dog’s name and your contact information on the carrier. Ensure your dog is comfortable in the carrier ahead of time by feeding treats and meals in the carrier and taking practice drives.
Assemble a Go Bag for Your Dog - aka bugout bag in prepper-speak.
A pet disaster preparedness kit should include everything your dog will need in an emergency evacuation. Consider your dog’s basic needs, safety, and any medical issues. Keep it in an easy-to-carry waterproof container and store it where you can easily get to it. Your dog’s go-bag should include items such as:
bottled drinking water (during an emergency, tap water can be contaminated).
food in waterproof containers or cans. (Choose pop-top tins or pack a can opener.) Bring enough for at least two weeks.
food and water bowls.
prescription medications and other required health supplies such as tick medication and heartworm preventative.
a dog first aid kit.
poop bags and other clean-up supplies.
familiar items like toys, bedding, and blankets to comfort your dog.
stress-relieving items like an anxiety vest or calming sprays if your dog is prone to anxiety.
Documentation (especially important when traveling) your dog’s license, vaccination records, medical records, and veterinarian contact information along with your own contact information can help in an emergency, especially when the details are up to date and in one place. Your phone may be a convenient storage location, but if it isn’t accessible or if internet service is interrupted, you’ll want those hard-copy backups.
A towel or blanket (thermal is my preference) https://www.amazon.com/s?k=thermal+blanket&language=en_US&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&tag=belvoir0f-20&ref=as_li_ss_tl
An injured or panicking dog can be soothed and calmed by being gently wrapped in a soft blanket or thick towel, which can also protect a dog lying on a hot or cold, hard, or rocky surface.
Keeping an injured animal warm is important to prevent the life-threatening effects of shock, a state in which the animal becomes hypothermic and his blood flow is severely impaired. Low blood flow can lead to damage of the vital organs like the brain and the heart. On any but very hot days, use a thermal blanket (also known as emergency, rescue, or space blanket) to keep the injured dog warm. These blankets are waterproof, lightweight, and take up very little room in first-aid kits.
We keep a couple of the mylar blankets in the car for emergency use also.
https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-%EF%BC%8CDesigned-Retention-%EF%BC%8CMarathons-Aid%E3%80%82ANMEILU/dp/B075YP8ZY8/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=thermal+blanket&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&qid=1668444860&sr=8-9
A commercial first-aid kit can be used as the foundation of a more complete kit that you add to and customize for your needs.
Bandages. Gauze (sterile gauze pads or gauze rolls), nonstick gauze pads, self-adhesive bandage material such as co-flex ( I prefer colored as you can see the wrap is still in place – that helps me on the horse across the pasture ) not only as wrap but can create a makeshift muzzle if one is needed, and fabric strips can control or absorb blood, support sprained muscles. Wooden splints can be added to support suspected bone fractures. Note that too-tight taping interferes with circulation – a concern with the co flex or any stretchable bandage.
2” x 5 Yards Self Adhesive Bandage Breathable Cohesive Bandage is my preferred.
In between the tool and bandage thoughts..
If you feel up to it I like a skin stapler – can be a great ‘fix’ or stop gap while getting to the vet. Very easy to use. (my mother used to fall a lot in her old age… she was tired of ER visits just get a few staples in her scalp and the $$ of it – she requested I get one for her.)
https://www.amazon.com/eMedical-Kits-Stapler-Remover-Kit/dp/B07N2ZK2V9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RAJGGDPZQR14&keywords=skin+stapler&qid=1668446120&sprefix=skin+st%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3
Tools. This category includes blunt-tip bandage scissors, tweezers, forceps, disposable gloves, syringes, a flashlight with fresh batteries, a magnifying glass, collapsible food or water bowls, pickup bags, spare leash and collar.
A soft muzzle that fits your dog is a good companion piece ( note the co flex again works well ) because any dog can bite or snap when in pain, so having one on your dog while he’s being moved or examined can help prevent injury to human helpers. Has come in handy more than once when we’ve helped dogs hit by a car and the cretins kept going.
Wound cleaner, antiseptic rinse, saline solution. The first step in treating most wounds is removing dust, sand, gravel, mud, or other debris. Rinse the wound with plain water or a saline solution, especially if you can apply it with a hose, syringe, turkey baster, or squeeze bottle. Medical-grade saline solution, which is sold in pharmacies, has many first-aid uses, including rinsing the eyes. Scissors or clippers can be used to remove hair around the wound, if necessary.
Once the wound is rinsed, blot it with a clean towel, gauze, or cotton balls. (personally, I don’t care for cotton balls as they leave little ‘strands’ For minor wounds, apply a non-stinging antiseptic rinse or spray. Most first-aid kits include chlorhexidine products.
https://www.amazon.com/VetSol-Wound-Solution-Scrapes-Animals/dp/B0952C2P9D/ref=sr_1_15?crid=1L9FE8O7QRSRN&keywords=nolvasan+solution&qid=1668446525&sprefix=nolv%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-15
5. Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide has long been used as a disinfecting rinse for cuts and abrasions, but its topical application has become controversial. Research shows that hydrogen peroxide may not affect all harmful bacteria, leaving some to infect treated wounds, and it damages fibroblasts, which are cells essential to the healing process. BETTER to use normal saline solution (cheapest / easiest is eye contact lens rinse – just saline without other buffers)
However, hydrogen peroxide still has an important place in your first-aid kit because, when swallowed, it induces vomiting making it useful in cases of poisoning. Vomiting is not appropriate for all toxic exposures, so be sure to follow the advice of your veterinarian, poison control center, or first-aid handbook.
When vomiting is recommended, the usual dose is 1 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide (widely available in grocery and drug stores) per 5 pounds of body weight with a maximum dose of 3 tablespoons for dogs who weigh more than 45 pounds (there are three teaspoons in a tablespoon).
Lift your dog’s chin and squirt the hydrogen peroxide into the side of your dog’s mouth with a syringe or eyedropper. Some foaming at the mouth may occur. If vomiting doesn’t begin within 15 minutes, the treatment can be repeated once.
To be sure hydrogen peroxide is effective when you need it, purchase small rather than large bottles and keep track of expiration dates. (I like the little spray bottles) Hydrogen peroxide loses its effectiveness with age and after opening. As long as it still bubbles it has some efficacy.
situations when you might have to make your dog vomit and when you shouldn’t,
When You Should Make Your Dog Throw Up:
If your dog ingests human medication or a goodly dose of another dog’s medications, it’s a good idea to make the dog vomit.
Circumstances Which It Depends on What Your Dog Swallowed:
Say your dog swallows a golf ball or your daughter’s teddy bear. Depending on the size of your dog versus the object, inducing vomiting might be a good idea, but many times, the object needs to be removed with an endoscope. In these cases, confer with your veterinarian regarding the probability that the object could make it back up your dog’s throat if vomiting was induced.
You Probably Should Not Make Your Dog Vomit If:
Your dog drinks an acidic substance such as bleach or a household cleaner, or eats a sharp-edged item. Inducing vomiting in these cases is more safely accomplished under the direct supervision of a veterinarian who can weigh the risks and benefits and act quickly if the plan goes south.
Do NOT Make Your Dog Throw Up If:
If your dog is sedate, comatose, or displaying signs of neurologic impairment or seizures, do not induce vomiting. you run a high risk of complications from aspiration.
Although it’s best to act within an hour of ingestion, inducing vomiting can be effective up to four hours post-ingestion in some cases. The caveat is that you should always consult a veterinarian or one of the veterinary phone consult toxicology services before inducing vomiting!
Who to Contact If Your Dog Eats Something Toxic
If your dog’s choice of poison is something more exotic, such as a cocktail of grandma’s beta blockers, statins, and anti-anxiety meds, you’d be better off making your first call to an animal poison control hotline.
There are two phone consult toxicology services, both offering consultations 24/7 and run by veterinarians:
1. ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435. Fee: $65 payable at time of call by credit card.
2. Pet Poison Help Line: (855) 764-7661. Fee: $39 payable at time of call by credit card.
Antibiotic ointment. Conventional first-aid kits generally come with an antibiotic ointment like Neosporin, which can be applied to cuts, abrasions, puncture wounds, and other injuries to prevent infection. For those who prefer alternative wound dressings, products that contain medical-grade Manuka honey, colloidal silver, or other natural disinfectants are widely available.
Ointments are typically applied to a wound that has been rinsed and blotted or air-dried and then, if needed, protected with a nonstick gauze pad that’s taped or wrapped in place. Most wound-salve instructions recommend replacing ointment and bandages twice or three times per day while the injury heals.
My first aid kit is a bit more extensive – includes people and critter. I lean to alternative treatments also. A few to get you pointed in that direction – take it from there.
https://www.amazon.com/Alginate-Dimora-Absorbent-Non-Stick-Individual/dp/B0834VF9G5/ref=asc_df_B0834VF9G5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507467652717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15498688758012287207&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013701&hvtargid=pla-1272331952284&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Colloidal-Silver-Gel-4-oz/dp/B07C9TLBBX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=MSGGRN3650B3&keywords=silver+ppm+gel&qid=1668444323&sprefix=silver+pp%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2
Styptic powder or collagen hydrolysate. Styptics are antiseptic clotting agents such as alum, ferric subsulfate, or herbs such as powdered goldenseal or yarrow. Styptic pencils, which place styptic powder directly on bleeding wounds, are convenient, but any styptic powder can be applied in small amounts using a cotton swab or spoon as an applicator. Dog groomers use styptic powder to control the bleeding of over-trimmed nails, and other styptics reduce bleeding after medical procedures such as biopsies.
A recent development in the treatment of bleeding wounds is a medical hydrolysate Type I collagen that acts as a tissue adhesive that stops bleeding, protects wounds, reduces scarring, and conforms to any wound site. The Hymed Group (hymed.com) manufactures EMT Gel and EMT Spray for general wound care and Collasate gel and spray for surgical, traumatic, and superficial wounds, first- and second-degree burns, foot-pad injuries, hot spots, and lick granulomas.
Bottled water and hydrating fluid. Water is an essential ingredient in any first-aid kit because it has so many practical uses, from rinsing wounds to helping prevent dehydration. Consider a non salt based electrolyte solution. I use a product from amazon you add to your bottled water. 40,000 volts – nice mix of minerals although it does have salt
Wet wipes or grooming wipes. Keep a supply of pet grooming wipes; they come in handy for many purposes. Don’t use alcohol-based disinfecting wipes, because alcohol stings and can damage injured tissue. Instead, look for products that soothe while they clean.
Hot and cold packs. Cold packs can help cool sprains, bruises, and other injuries and reduce inflammation and swelling. Hot packs can increase circulation, help the dog feel warm and comfortable, support a dog recovering from shock or injury, and speed healing.
These treatments are easy to provide at home, where you can keep a cold pack in the freezer and heat a hot pack in the microwave, wrap a hot water bottle in a towel, or use an electric heating pad designed for animals. But if you’re away, a few instant hot packs and instant cold packs will be convenient. They are sold in pharmacies and pet supply stores. To activate either product, squeeze or massage the pack, wrap it in a towel, and apply it to the affected area. Replace as needed (they’re small and don’t last long, so you may need several).
A pet first-aid guide or handbook. First-aid references will help you make right decisions when the unexpected happens. These can be short (covering the most common conditions) or comprehensive, and they’re most useful when you’re familiar with their layout and contents.
Camping traveling with pups
admittedly copied so just giving URL - camping and national parks info as or May 2021
https://thedyrt.com/magazine/lifestyle/worst-national-parks-for-dogs-and-where-to-camp-instead/?fbclid=IwAR2GF9i1WR-hNCYdr1cTjWq-gl907oAAvNBQ03Zv9bDiKdOmuIQw5F9ZMsg
travel - dog friendly links
https://www.bringfido.com/?fbclid=IwAR2YiEnu--TlDcynbGA1I5JCCCERf3R4IWUObejNrbYKXmg7zwzLBofQdkA
other links well below should be checked as I have not updated since this covid malarkey... real but a lot of drama....
** a quick caveat - beware of pups food intake and downtime requirements. please see my notes on hypoglycemia
Some folks like to pick up their pups as part of a trip. a few suggestions to help that process with a puppy in addition to some comments on camping / traveling in general with your dog(s)
I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking. the same food they are used for the same reasons. You can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc tailored for your needs.
Keep the air conditioner or heat on when leaving your dog unattended
If you’re staying in an area with a warm climate, have a backup system in place for keeping your dog cool in case of power failure or an A/C malfunction while you’re gone.
there are 'apps' and sensors available that will alert you to your cell phone of temperature changes in your camper. try a search (camper temperature monitor for pets ) to learn more. I have a 'dumb' phone so can't offer an opinion based on experience. please feel free to advise me of options and suggestions on any dog product.
Always leave the air vents open with the fans on and beware of newer ventilation fans with built-in sensors that automatically shut vents if it rains. If your RV has these sensors, disable them before leaving your dog alone in the RV. Also, be sure to set out plenty of water before you leave. for the dog in a crate add a water bottle. my favorite being the dog version of a rabbit bottle by lixit.
bring a crate that can contain your dog safely in your camper. a freaked out dog can destroy a camper and even escape. if a crate not part of your hoe routine train your dog the the crate ahead of time. A spare bunk or even a dog bed stashed under the dinette table also make great spaces where your pup can go to relax and feel safe.
Bring comforts from home: Providing your pooch with a favorite blanket or toy will help it settle in to your home away from home. And be sure to keep favorite treats on hand for rewarding good behavior.
Clean up after your pet: Again, this is not only considerate, it’s a requirement in most campgrounds. Even if you’re dry-docking in the wilderness, picking up after your pup is better for the environment and the surrounding wildlife
Locate the nearest storm shelter: Be sure your campground’s shelter allows pets, and keep a sharp eye on the weather reports, especially in areas prevalent for tornadoes or hurricanes. see emergency plans elsewhere on my FAQ section.
Help your dog be a quiet neighbor: If your companion is prone to barking at the slightest disturbance, try using a fan or white noise machine to mask outside noises. I like a radio on a talk station or classical as background noise before and during a trip. part of early puppy training here is fire crackers on the deck by 6 weeks old. acclimatizing your dog to odd noises young helps later with fireworks - thunder storms - backfires - etc. When you need to leave your dog alone, take them on a walk first to release any pent-up energy and tire them out, and leave plenty of toys to keep them from barking out of boredom. If that doesn’t curb out-of-control barking, try an anti-barking device - there are many good options out there. A good selection of decent brands and styles available at gundogsupply.com - note we have tested a number the cheap ones available at places like ebay and amazon and can say buyer beware or the 'inexpensive' think cheap in both meanings of the word.
Bring the Right Gear
Besides your pet’s food, fresh water, bowls, leash and collar, grooming supplies, and all the comforts and necessities of daily life. keep in mind the water your dog is accustomed to. bottled water is neutral and available anywhere while well or 'city' water is different or may contain things like chlorine or fluoride your dog is not used to.
think about activities you’ll want to engage in with your dog and pack accordingly. Here are some items you might want to bring along as your lifestyle or plans dictate.
Safety harness with a handle. be sure it is well attached taking your dogs weight into account.
Light that attaches to a leash or collar or vest - I have them on both sides of my service dogs vest. we also have collars that light all the way around and can be set to flash or just be on. same option applies to leashes.
Dog life vest - look at styles as I see some of the newer ones take into account your dog could be knocked out the same as you could in a boating accident or get very tired swimming. a 'flap' or neck 'ring' to support the head.
Water toys
Booties to protect paws in snow and ice ( think about ice melting chemicals also ) or on hot or rocky surfaces. be very aware that asphalt is HOT in the sun. you can figure that one out standing still a few minutes and feeling it though your shoes. think how it must be on 'bare' feet.
Dog sunscreen for nose, ears, and other exposed areas
Pet-friendly mosquito and tick repellent
Collapsible food and water dishes for your backpack if that is your style of camping.
Sun goggles to protect your pet’s eyes if your dog tolerates them - again something to try and get his used to ahead of the need.
Old beach towels for drying your pup off, mopping up messes or providing a surface to lie on shade umbrella
Folding or collapsible play pen for small dogs
Sweater or jacket for cold climates
hotels
- Many hotels accept pets as a chain. Red roof is one - as policies can change I suggest a quick search on traveling with pets for pet friendly hotels. Not endorsing but as of December 2016 I found these quickly
http://www.officialpethotels.com/?refid=1385&refclickid=1385~G~E~pet-friendly-hotels&gclid=CMy-3tjo5tACFQ-NaQod2tID4A#axzz4SKfEcCOe
https://www.bringfido.com/lodging/
Identification
In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified.
Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots. If you plan on being away for more than a few days, consider purchasing a second identification tag giving the location and phone number of your vacation spot.
Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip. your vet can help you with that or you can buy your own online and 'implant' it - - it is just like a shot over the shoulder blades but has the chip instead of liquid. I recommend avid as one of the best chips. AKC has their own chip they sell. avoid halo as we tried them and they migrated far away from site normally checked.
Bring a recent picture of your dog along with you, as well as a copy of his health records listing all of his recent vaccinations.
A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car or camper and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet stores and online.
Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn, and lie down. for most uses I recommend a wire suitcase model crate. see the airlines rules on what they require.
Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.
Be prepared for an emergency if there’s a situation where your dog needs medical attention, you need to be prepared with the necessary information on hand - especially true of any medical concerns out of the ordinary for your dog.
Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.
Avoid carsickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.
Keep the car well ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.
Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.
Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.
Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks is not only a good idea for you but for your dog as well. Be sure to clean up after your dog. military protocol is 15 minute break every 2 to 3 hours or every 100 - 150 miles driving - whichever is shorter.
Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer. If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog
Bring your dog to the veterinarian for a checkup before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up-to-date; take shot records with you. A health certificate within 10 days of travel are required for airline travel for dogs as 'cargo'. = check with the airlines about small dogs as carry-on. there is usually a fee and will require a soft sided crate but don't usually require the health certificate. be sure the airlines knows when booking as seating arrangement will be adjusted accordingly. service dogs are the exception to the normal size / crate requirement in the cabin - noting a very large dog or flight over 8 hours duration will have further requirements.
When traveling by plane, plan to visit your veterinarian before your trip. Certification of health must be provided to the airline dated no more than 10 days before travel. Rabies certificates are also required for dogs over 12 weeks old. Your dog should be at least 8 weeks old.
Airlines make it clear that it is the owner’s responsibility to verify the dog’s health and ability to fly. Ask your veterinarian if it would be best for your dog to be tranquilized for the trip. I have to make the point as cargo they ask if the dog has been sedated and will possibly turn you down if the dog is sedated - possible exception with veterinarian note. check ahead of time on that one. Also be sure to check the temperature of the flight’s starting point and destination; it may be too hot or too cold to be safe for your dog.
Federal regulations prohibit shipping live animals as excess baggage or cargo if an animal will be exposed to temperatures that are below 25 degrees Fahrenheit or above 85 degrees Fahrenheit for more than two hours before departure, at arrival, or while making connections.
According to American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), air transport of sedated pets may be fatal. Over-sedation is the most frequent cause of animal deaths during airline transport and accounts for almost half of all deaths. Except in unusual circumstances, veterinarians should not dispense sedatives for animals that are to be transported. Little is known about the effects of sedation on animals that are under the stress of transportation and enclosed in cages at 8,000 feet or higher, the altitude at which cargo holds are pressurized. Additionally, some animals react abnormally to sedatives.
Although animals may be excitable while being handled during the trip to the airport and prior to loading, they probably revert to a quiescent resting state in the dark, closed cargo hold, and the sedatives may have an excessive effect. JAVMA, Vol 207, No.l 6, September 15, 1995 "An animal's natural ability to balance and maintain equilibrium is altered under sedation," noted Dr. Patricia Olson, a director of the American Humane Association (AHA). "When the kennel is moved, a sedated animal may not be able to brace and prevent injury." Increased altitude can also create respiratory and cardiovascular problems for dogs and cats that are sedated or tranquilized. Brachycephalic (pug or snub nosed) dogs and cats are especially affected. Insight, May/June 1997
Rather than tranquilizing, pre-condition your pet to its travel container. According to the Air Transport Association, "As far in advance of the trip as possible, let your pet get to know the flight kennel. Veterinarians recommend leaving it open in the house with an old sock or other familiar object inside so that your pet will spend time in the kennel. It is important for your dog or cat to be as relaxed as possible during the flight." "Air Travel for your Dog or Cat", Air Transport Assn of America, Sept 1991 From the International Air Transport Association: "The airline industry continues to warn owners and veterinarians against the use of sedatives/tranquilizers for dogs and cats being transported by air.
The effect of sedating drugs are unpredictable at air pressures inside an aircraft, which are equivalent to 8,000 ft altitude. At this pressure, the physiologic changes from sedatives/tranquilizers may be enhanced. There have been a number of instances where sedated pets traveling by air needed veterinary care to recover from the sedation. Some pets could not be revived. Occasionally, owners have given repeated doses to ensure a comfortable journey for their pet or when sedation did not follow a single dose. When questioned by airline personnel, many owners claim that their veterinarians had advised them to do so. Although sedatives/tranquilizers should never be repeated for animals traveling by air, sedated pets may have adverse reactions in pressurized aircraft even when single doses are administered at recommended dosages.
Remember that each airline has its own variations on regulations and services. For example, if your crate doesn’t meet its requirements, the airline may not allow you to use it. They may, however, allow your dog in the passenger cabin if your soft sided carrier fits under the seat in front of you.
When making your reservations, you must make reservations for your dog. There are restrictions on the number of animals permitted on each flight. They are accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.
If you plan to travel by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Only dogs under 20 pounds are permitted on Amtrak trains (There is also a $25 fee). Dogs are not allowed on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.
You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.
campgrounds -
Most all accept pets. our experience camping has been no extra fee. you will be expected to clean up after your dog and not allow it to be a nuisance to other campers. {simply put - proper etiquette for the dog owner}
Some state parks want to limit the number of dogs you bring to their campground. Same with some national parks. Check the rules for each place you intend to stay or check for a state by state listing of the rules if you are not sure . We have a large camper and have taken some of the 'kids' with us to shows / festivals/ etc.
For in the camper you have to decide what you want. We have a few crates that stack to keep the younger 'kids' contained and out of trouble. The grown dogs take over the couch or the bed or whatever they feel like plopping themselves down. I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking. the same food for the same reasons. you can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc for your needs.
tents vs campers
It has been a few years since we tent camped but a couple comments. A crate for your dog or pups since a tent wall is not a proper barrier for an untrained pup. Our adults are happy enough with their own bedding and trusted in the tent with us. I would never leave a dog unattended in a tent for safety sake.
In warm weather - your dog gets hot same as you. Selecting a shady spot and a small fan can help. For non electric camping I have a foldout battery fan. Solar rechargeable options exist. I mention these so you know the exist to do your own research
In cold weather. of more importance to small dogs and young pups. warmth is critical. going beyond the little doggie coats which can help them keep warm the same as you wear a jacket. products for cold weather camping exist. We used to have a catalytic heater - a little pricey but safe. Mr Heater as a brand has a range of sizes starting with a nice small heater that goes on the quart size propane bottle. ( please research heaters to fit your needs - some small ones can be hung in the tent. Others have nice bases to make them stable. Pups should be crated to ensure they don't knock over a heater )
again not an endorsement although we do have one similar. info provided as thought provoking. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DD6C4MY/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
for camping with access to electric it gets cheaper and simpler -a small ceramic heater can be a nice option.
If you are fine in your sleeping bag without additional 'area' heat but are traveling with a small pup - a normal heating pad ( Be sure it is not one that has a short timer but one that stays on - I would check to see what level warms the crate interior but will suggest medium to not over heat the pup or burn out the pad if under the crate) under the pups crate can provide enough warmth. cover the crate with a blanket - consider one of the Mylar blankets underneath as ground radiant barrier. Mylar blankets are good under your sleeping bags and a must for a winter travel emergency in the car. You can get the pocket version inexpensively and they are extremely lightweight yet their apparent flimsiness belies their effectiveness. Except for a hiking lightweight pack prefer the heavier version ( I like ours = this blanket - https://www.amazon.com/Grabber-Outdoors-Original-Weather-Blanket/dp/B002CQUA28/ref=sr_1_7_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281087&sr=1-7&keywords=mylar+blanketDO ) we keep a couple in the car for winter emergencies. ( I recommend a winter emergency travel pack in your car - you can research appropriate things for your climate. Please consider your dog in your packing items )
Do NOT encase the crate with a non breathable blanket like the Mylar. over the sides and back - ok. a normal blanket over the front ( large towel works )
Hiking
Depending on your situation - such as backpacking. Products like collapsible food and water bowls or even fabric bowls exist for space and weight. Pups can't be expected to hike a long distance like an adult dog can. consider a back / front pack for you to wear for your small dog or pup. Same rules apply to your dog as would a child. Don't set out on a 50 mile hike without being sure your dog is in physical shape for it
NOT endorsing and I have never used one but have seen similar in use... providing a link to stimulate your search ideas
https://www.amazon.com/Pettom-Carrier-Soft-sided-Outdoor-Backpack/dp/B01CFKO774/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1481278310&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=dog+backpack+carrier&psc=1
taking this one step further - consider the weather and pups comfort. in cold weather consider the hand / foot heaters such as hot hands - some are good for up to 10 hours and do not give off fumes. a nice heater for your pocket that is reuseable runs on butane. not a brand endorsement but for your edification https://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Warmer-Polish-Chrome-Lighter/dp/B000KGET4C/ref=sr_1_sc_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281479&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=butant+hand+heat
Dog breeding - stud service and a little on estrus cycle in your girl please see our stud service page
Early Neuter Doubles The Risk Of Hip Dysplasia and other concerns In Dogs
The results of a number of publications are briefly
summarized here regarding the areas of orthopedics, cancer, behavior, and other health considerations. I've condensed a lot if this from veterinary practice news to address the more pertinent facts. I encourage you to research this further when making a decision on when to spay / neuter your pup. I personally will recommend a minimum of 1 year of age.
Orthopedic Considerations
Bitches spayed at 7 weeks had significantly
delayed closure of growth plates as compared to those spayed at
7 months, and those spayed at 7 months had significantly delayed closure of growth plates as compared to those left intact.
In a study of 1444 Golden Retrievers, bitches and dogs spayed or neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered after a year of age.
In a study of 203 agility dogs, the tibia and radius and ulna were significantly longer than the femur and humerus, respectively, in dogs that were spayed or neutered at or prior to 8 months of age as compared to intact dogs.
Several studies have shown that spayed and neutered dogs have a significantly higher prevalence of CCL rupture even when controlling for body size.
Dogs that were neutered at least 6 months prior to a diagnosis of
hip dysplasia were 1.5 times more likely to develop hip dysplasia than
sexually intact dogs.
Spayed/neutered dogs had 3.1 times higher incidence of patellar luxation
Dogs that have been spayed or neutered at or before puberty can
often be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrower
chests and narrower skulls than intact dogs of the same breed This differential
growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months, prior to a dog being spayed or neutered, but the tibia ( which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age) continues to elongate for several months after that point because of the removal of the sex hormones, then the relationship between the femur and tibia will be different than what was genetically determined. This may result in an abnormal angle at the stifle and a longer (and therefore heavier) tibia placing increased stress on the cranial cruciate ligament (of the knee or stifle joint)
It is well known that spayed and neutered dogs are more likely to be overweight or obese than sexually intact dogs, and this can be a contributing factor to orthopedic diseases
Cancer Considerations
Spayed females had more than 5 times greater risk than intact bitches of developing
cardiac hemangiosarcoma and neutered males had 1.6 times higher risk than intact males had of developing cardiac hemangiosarcoma.
Spayed females had 2.2 times increased risk for developing splenic hemangiosarcoma
In a second study,
spayed/neutered dogs had a 2.2 times higher risk of developing
bone cancer than intact dogs.
Neutered dogs had a 2.8 times greater risk for developing any prostate than intact dogs.
Neutered dogs had a 4.3 times higher risk of developing prostate carcinoma
Neutered dogs had a 3.6 higher risk for developing transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder
than intact dogs and a 3 times greater risk of developing any bladder tumor.
Spayed/neutered dogs had more than 4 times greater risk for developing
transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder than intact dogs.
One study indicated a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer in female dogs after one heat cycle (8% increase), greater risk with two heats (26
% increase) and increased risk with each subsequent heat.
However, a recent systematic review of the publications that advocate neutering to reduce the risk of mammary tumors in dogs indicated that 9 of 13 reports had a high risk of bias and the remaining 4 had a moderate risk of bias. This study concluded that the evidence that neutering reduces the risk of mammary cancer is weak and do not constitute a sound basis for firm recommendations.
Additionally, at the time when several of these studies were conducted (late 1960s),
it was found that incidence rates for all malignant neoplasms were 4/100,000
female dogs. Mammary tumors accounted for half of these tumors, 8/100,000. Thus, the actual overall risk at that time of any bitch getting a mammary tumor was only 0.2%.
In any case, the figures for increased risk of mammary cancer must be compared with the 200 to 400% increased risk of other cancers in spayed females.
While about 30% of mammary cancers are malignant as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early, the prognosis is very good)
This is in comparison to the other cancers listed, such as hemangiosarcoma
and bladder cancer, which are often fatal. Given the balance of
cancer risks listed above, owners should strongly consider leaving the ovaries intact for at least two heat cycles. In addition, the veterinary field should be developing programs for regular examinations including imaging to facilitate early diagnosis of mammary
cancer in all intact female dogs, as has been performed in women for decades.
Behavior Considerations
Early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors, such as mounting. Significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs, with fearful behavior being most common in spayed bitches and aggression in neutered dogs.
In 2011, researchers at the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine found that cancer was the most common cause of death in older dogs. (It’s also the leading cause of death for 71 of the 82 breeds studied.)
what your vet says should take precedence over this - I will touch on some of the more common tumors/cancers as we've had several dogs over the past 4 decades with cancer and more with lipomas which while worrisome are not something to panic over -but should be monitored letting your vet know of rapid changes.
Not all tumors in dogs are cancerous, but all of them should be evaluated by your veterinarian.
Lipomas
Christine Swanson, DVM, a veterinary medical oncologist and assistant professor at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Michigan State University, calls this benign fatty tumor very common and notes that many different breeds are prone to developing them. Lipomas usually feel like a relatively soft mass that can be moved around underneath a dog’s skin.
They vary in size, and most of the time, they’re not a serious issue. A fine needle aspirate is done to confirm the benign nature of the tumor, and the tumor is usually only removed if it’s bothersome to the dog’s normal movement or activity
Mast Cell Tumors
mast cell tumors are one of the most common type of canine skin tumors. These grow quickly and are usually red and very itchy
Melanoma
This is a form of cancer of the pigmented cells of the skin of dogs, and like melanoma in people, these tumors are typically black or dark brown
Many skin masses are benign, but those in the mouth and at the nail bed can be very aggressive, she adds. In the case of the latter, the toe is typically swollen and may be painful. Following an x-ray, it may be determined that the affected toe must be amputated in order to fully remove the cancerous mass.
The risks with this specific type of melanoma don’t end there. It may metastasize to places such as the lymph nodes in the area and the lungs, liver, or other internal organs. Once evidence of such metastasis has been identified, some combination of surgery, radiation therapy, and immunotherapy (a therapeutic vaccine for canine melanoma has been licensed by the USDA)
Lymphoma
Lethargy, decreased appetite, and coughing may accompany swollen lymph nodes in dogs of all breeds with this type of cancer, although some individuals initially show little in the way of symptoms other than lymph node swelling. this swelling is most noticeable under the jaw, in front of the shoulders, and behind the knees.
A fine needle aspirate and/or tissue biopsy is done to reach a diagnosis. Then, a veterinary oncologist will conduct something called a staging test to determine where else in the body these cells might be. The most common treatment is chemotherapy.
Papilloma
These benign tumors are warts in dogs, and Swanson says they can be uncomfortable and problematic. When this infection develops, multiple hard, pale, cauliflower-like warts are noted typically on the lips, inside the mouth, and around the eyes. The warts can be painful and severe infections can make chewing and swallowing difficult.
Papillomas will go away after a few weeks, sometimes months—though if they’re causing major problems for the dog in question, they can and should be removed by a veterinarian.
These benign tumors are caused by a virus (called papillomavirus) that is transmitted by direct contact with an infected dog or contaminated objects like bedding or toys. While it’s best to keep affected dogs isolated from unaffected ones, the incubation period often lasts months, so by the time symptoms make themselves known, it might have already spread to other dogs in a household.
Discussion of behavioral considerations
A number of the early studies claiming to show positive behavioral effects of spay/neuter were significantly flawed.
For example, one of the most often quoted publications to support improvements in behavior particularly aggression, after gonadectomy does not actually provide any statistical analysis. Additionally, 88% of owners of dogs in this study stated that their reason for castrating the dog was to attempt to resolve an existing behavior problem. Owners were also surveyed regarding the dog’s behavior a mean of 27 months post castration.
These factors likely introduced a significant amount of bias.
Another performed statistical analysis but showed that the age when the dog was neutered was not correlated with the degree of improvement.
Most critically neither of these two studies included a control group of intact dogs. One of the more important undesirable behavioral effects of spay/neuter was a finding of a significantly lowered energy level. This was shown in a study that was well controlled and examined over 3500 dogs
Other Health Considerations
Female, and sometimes male, dogs that are spayed/neutered before puberty have an increased risk of urinary incontinence and it is more severe in bitches spayed earlier
Spayed female dogs displayed a significantly higher risk of hypothyroidism
when compared to intact females.
A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism.
Neutered male and spayed female dogs had higher relative risks of developing hypothyroidism than intact females.
Neutered females had a 22 times increased risk of developing fatal acute
pancreatitis (multivariate analysis) as compared to intact females.
Risk of adverse reactions to vaccines is 27 to 38% greater in neutered dogs as compared to intact.
Buying your pup and how payments work please see my buying your pup page
Loss of your best friend and adding a new pup
I miss dogs gone 50 + years - even though it is a fact of life I still can't help shedding a tear at times. Some folks want to wait until the old dogs has passed to bring a new pup in. I can understand and you know your dog best. However, many many times when folk have brought in the new pup anyway the pup can learn many things from the 'boss' and the the 'boss' may 'enjoy' the company and opportunity to 'teach' the new pup with maybe a little rebound in liveliness.
What Stools Can Tell You About Your Dog’s Health
(we've gotten strange looks from friends for commenting on what nice poop - seriously as breeders / owners we watch these things. - yes the exciting times watching dogs 'dump' )
The causes for acute diarrhea in the absence of other signs are varied and include dietary indiscretion (for example: getting into the garbage), gastrointestinal bacteria including Campylobacter, and GI parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, and protozoal infections. In most cases of acute, self-limiting diarrhea, a cause is never identified.
Many things can cause diarrhea or, less frequently, constipation. Some things, like eating too much grass, are not serious at all. Others can be a sign of a life-threatening problem, such as an indigestible object (like a rock) lodged in the stomach, or a disease like cancer.
If your dog seems otherwise normal, and he is currently on monthly parasite preventative medication, then symptomatic treatment at home is appropriate. Usually most diarrhea will run its course within two to four days, although in some cases, it can last longer. If there are any other signs of illness like vomiting, loss of appetite, depression, or pain, a veterinary trip is in order.
The consistency and color of diarrhea reveals a lot about the cause of the problem and what is happening in your dog. Take note of the color, consistency, and anything else that might help when you describe the symptoms to your veterinarian. In most cases, diarrhea will resolve after a few days of home treatment, but it’s a good idea to give your vet a call if it continues for a long period or has any one of several signs that may point to a serious problem.
a few things to note
Dietary indiscretion: Eating too much, eating garbage, or spoiled food. There’s actually a name for it in veterinary circles—“garbage toxicosis” or “garbage gut.”
some dogs may have a food intolerance or allergies to some ingredients. foods may have different bases such as rice, corn even one like bil-jac is more beet based. see my notes on grain free ( not all good )
regional foods and different companies may have different base mixes. I had one dog could not tolerate red dye. a customer has a dog that will lose her hair with chicken. you will learn your dogs needs as they can vary just like people. most get along fine on about any decent food.
Poisonous substances or plants
Swallowing an indigestible foreign body, like a toy, socks, sticks. one of our customers had to have surgery after shredding and eating a rope bone. we had one swallow a fish hook at the lake since she liked to eat worms (no acounting for some dogs taste). that passed after a few days of feeding her a lot of bread to bulk thnigs up and help it pass. such fun hosing down her stools until we found the hook. it beat the alternative of surgery which could have been a real possibiity
diarrhea that develops suddenly in an otherwise healthy dog is often due to scavenging behavior, Stress or emotional upset can upset a dog just like it an people. a sudden change in diet, or viral, Bacterial infections, such as salmonella or parasitic infections.
Change in diet: It may take a few days for a dog’s digestive system to adapt to new proteins. when changing your dogs diet mix the new food with the old in greater purportions over a week at least to have less impact on your dogs system.
Illnesses, such as kidney and liver disease, colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, and cancer
Antibiotics and other medications can kill the beneficial bacteria in you or your dogs digestive tract. consider adding a probiotic or live culture yogurt
More chronic diarrhea can be caused by dietary allergies or intolerances, stress, some types of parasites (e.g., Giardia, hookworms, roundworms and whipworms), bacterial infections, pancreatic disease, inflammatory bowel disease, irritable bowel syndrome, some types of cancer, and diseases outside of the gastrointestinal tract (e.g., liver failure or heart disease). These type of health issues will need to be discussed with your veterinarian and can require prescription pet medication.
if your dog is very young, very old, has a preexisting health condition, call your veterinarian for advice on how to handle the diarrhea. These individuals can become severely debilitated even when suffering from relatively mild diarrhea. Also, call your veterinarian if your dog’s diarrhea is frequent and/or very watery - contains more than just a streak of blood - is dark and tarry or if your dog is vomiting profusely, lethargic, depressed, and/or is in pain. These can be signs of potentially serious health conditions.
Home Remedies
Make sure the dog has access to plenty of clean water to avoid dehydration. Encourage the dog to drink. If needed, offer dilute chicken, beef broth or Pedialyte in addition to the water.
Give the dog a small meal of boiled white meat chicken (no bones or skin) and white rice. This can be the dog's diet until the stool consistency returns to normal.
If the diarrhea continues for more than 3 dayss or your dog’s condition worsens at any time, call your vet
A great many cases are mild and may be treated without a trip to the office. They may respond to a regimen of very basic treatments such as.
Fasting
Withholding food for 12 to 24 hours, and providing water in small amounts frequently, can clear the cause of the upset and allow the gastrointestinal tract to settle. It’s usually the first line of attack for the runs. Before you decide on a fast, be sure that your dog is healthy enough to endure it. Puppies, and elderly dogs, for example, need nutrients. Also, a fast may not be appropriate for little dogs, who do not have the physical reserves of their larger cousins.
Diarrhea can lead to dehydration, so make sure to give your dog access to water at all times. Many people also offer unflavored Pedialyte to maintain electrolyte balance. diluted chicken broth may be more palatable - watch of for the salted kind if buying pre -made broth.
After a fast, food is usually introduced slowly and many people start with binders, which can normalize stool consistency. Some tried-and-true methods include:
Rice water: Boil high-quality rice in a lot of water, remove the grains, and offer the dog the creamy white soup that’s left. A splash of broth or a bit baby food will make it more palatable.
White rice - cooked a tad dry to help absorb moisture in your dogs or yours... digestive tract. a little lean cooked hamburger or chicken without the skin can make it more enticing.
Canned pumpkin (plain, not prepared pie filling) is effective for both diarrhea and constipation. Probiotics, live bacteria that aid digestion (these are also found in yogurt - read the label for live culture) don't give a lot as most dogs are lactose intolerant past early puppyhood.
Boiled potatoes, without skin
Plain protein sources such as egg (prepared with no butter or oil) or chicken (without skin)
Herbs, such as fennel, ginger or papaya have gut-soothing properties
Specially-formulated dog foods: Some manufacturers offer foods that can sooth stomach problems. You may need to obtain these from your vet.
Over-the-counter medications for humans may also be effective for doggie diarrhea, but should be given with caution and you should talk to your vet before using them. kaopectate is a good one. an old remedy is unflavored 'jello' such as knox gelatin to drink before it 'sets up'
Avoid using human remedies such as loperamide, also called Immodium. This medication has an opioid in it, and it is easy to overdose a dog unintentionally.
If your dog continues to do well other than diarrhea, three to four days of at-home treatment is appropriate.
Methods that work for one dog may not help another, so you might need to do a little experimentation to find the right formula. It might also be helpful to write down what works and what doesn’t so you’ll know what to do the next time you find yourself mopping up a mess.
Once you find a recovery diet that agree with your dog, and doesn’t cause a relapse, you can slowly increase the portions over a period of days, and then start to add small quantities of your dog’s regular food, until things are back to normal.
Feeding a sick dog.
Decreased appetite, upset stomach, diarrhea, and vomiting make caring for a sick dog stressful for both you and your pet. A bland diet can help relieve some of these symptoms while also giving your dog the nutrition he needs to recover.
some recipes for dogs with mild stomach upset, including gas, nausea, constipation, and diarrhea. note - checking with your vet to rule out anything more serious that the occasional off day or food sensitivity is prudent
chicken and rice for dogs
Chicken and rice are prime ingredients in many dog foods, and these mild foods sit well on upset canine stomachs. Plus, this bland meal is easy to prepare. All you need are boneless, skinless chicken breasts and rice. White rice is lower in nutritional value than brown rice, but its blandness makes it more suitable for upset stomachs. Oils, butter, and added seasonings can irritate your dog’s stomach and make the problem worse, so stick with plain boiled chicken and rice. Make sure the chicken is cooked thoroughly and cut or shred it into small, bite-sized pieces for your dog, since enthusiastic canines might choke on this unexpected treat.
** see my notes on how we prepare chicken for us and the dogs
chicken breast
Shredded chicken is easy on upset stomachs and acts as a huge eating incentive for dogs with decreased appetites. Plain, unseasoned, boiled, shredded chicken is easy to digest and is packed with essential vitamins, minerals, fats, and amino acids, making it a great snack for dogs feeling under the weather. Chicken keeps in the fridge for three-to-four days, or you can freeze it for two-to-six months. or can it for years to come.
sweet potatoes
Dogs love this orange vegetable. Not only is it a great treat, but it also has many health benefits. Sweet potatoes are frequently used in dog food products because they are high in fiber and full of vitamin B6, vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium, and manganese.
The fiber in sweet potatoes helps regulate dogs with intestinal difficulties like loose stools or constipation. Unseasoned, plain, peeled, cooked, and mashed sweet potatoes make a healthy addition to your pet’s existing diet. Talk to your vet about how much sweet potato to feed your dog. If you plan on continuing to use sweet potatoes as a dietary supplement, scoop them into tablespoon-size balls and freeze them for convenience.
Pumpkin
Pumpkin and sweet potato have similar digestive health benefits. Like sweet potatoes, pumpkin is also high in fiber, which helps regulate canine digestive systems. Cooked, peeled, unsalted, and unseasoned pumpkin contains vitamin E, thiamin, niacin, vitamin B6, folate, iron, magnesium, phosphorous, dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin C, riboflavin, potassium, copper, and manganese, giving your dog a nutritional boost along with a little digestive help.
Adding pumpkin to your dog’s meal usually helps regulate mild constipation. Veterinarians recommend one to four tablespoons of pumpkin, depending on your dog’s size. Canned pumpkin is a convenient alternative to preparing pumpkin yourself, as long as it is unseasoned. Feeding your dog a can of pumpkin pie filling might end up sending you back to the vet, as the spices and sugars could irritate your dog’s stomach and cause further complications.
Bone Broth
Bone broth is a very mild, liquid meal that sits easily in upset canine stomachs. It is also a nutritious and delicious way to add moisture and flavor to dry food and encourage dogs with reduced appetites to eat. To make a bone broth for dogs, fill a crock-pot with beef marrow bones or bones with plenty of joints, like turkey and chicken legs. Cover the bones with 2-3 inches of water, cover, and cook on low for 20-24 hours. ( pressure cooking speeds this process greatly ) - ( and for your canning folks - making a big batch and putting some up for later use for you or your dog as a nicety to have on the shelf )
Let the broth cool for 2-to-3 hours in the fridge to let the fat form a hardened layer at the top. Scoop it off and store the jelly-like broth in the refrigerator. If you want to use the broth to add moisture to dry food, microwave the broth just long enough for it to go from a semi-solid jelly to a liquid, but not long enough to get hot, as hot broths can burn your dog’s mouth. Freeze the broth in small containers like an ice cube tray for later use.
While bone broth is full of healthy bone marrow, cooked small bones themselves most dangerous. Make sure you remove all of the bones from your broth before serving. Save yourself a trip to the emergency room and strain the broth just to make sure no small bones escaped your notice. HOWEVER... pressure cooking bones to the point the crush easily between your fingers makes them a safe and nutritious alternative
Baby Food
Veterinary emergency hospitals often use certain types of baby food to feed the dogs in their care. Baby food is very easy to swallow and digest and is a great way to give oral medications. Veterinarians recommend feeding Stage II meat-based baby foods like chicken, lamb, and turkey, as long as the baby food does not contain any garlic or onion powder.
canning chicken
we raise most of our own food organically since I am admittedly anti-chemical to a point. we use those large turkey cookers to cook perhaps a dozen chickens over night ( you can use store bought chicken hopefully finding a nice sale )
basic steps are
cook until practically falling off the bone
let cool
de-bone
can the meat - see most universities canning procedures for caning meat and adjust for your altitude. 75 minutes a pint and 90 a quart. look up the pressure for your altitude.
toss remaining skin - bones - meat stuck to bones - etc into your pressure cooker. what you want is the bones to crush easily between your fingers.
strain broth off and can separately for you or your dogs use. can or freeze the rest. noting a salmon can with the sloped side make an easy to remove "hockey puck" frozen treat for your dog. we save the canned product to mix in with some rice or barley or? for cooking in the winter on the wood stove to give the dogs a warm treat meal.
this next about DCM is close to my heart as we just lost a great friend to young to DCM - not food related to be fair but..... it hurts
- FDA Investigation into Diet-Related DCM
Dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) is a type of canine heart disease that affects the myocardium (the muscle of the heart). DCM results in an enlarged heart that is unable to effectively pump blood throughout the body.
In recent years there has been a notable increase in cases of DCM in dogs not typically genetically prone to the disease. This prompted the FDA to launch an investigation in 2018 into a potential link between boutique, grain-free, or exotic ingredient diets and the development of canine DCM.
In 2018, the FDA began investigating reports of dogs developing DCM after eating certain pet foods, despite having no genetic predisposition for the disease. The FDA received hundreds of reports of dogs affected by DCM that ate diets containing peas, lentils, other legume seeds or potatoes as their main ingredients.
After reviewing the ingredients of the dog foods reported in cases of DCM, the FDA issued a report in 2019 linking 16 brands of dog food to DCM. The majority of these dog foods were labeled as “grain-free” and contained high amounts of peas, lentils, chickpeas, beans or potatoes. Other reports involved boutique, exotic ingredient or home-prepared diets. The FDA continues to investigate the potential connection between DCM and grain-free diets high in legumes and potatoes.
While the underlying cause remains unclear, the FDA theorizes that the ingredients used may be linked to abnormalities in protein and amino acid digestion, absorption or metabolism. However, more research is needed to confirm this potential association. In the meantime, the FDA recommends pet owners work closely with their veterinarians regarding their dog’s diet.
Theories on Cause of Diet-Related DCM
Researchers are still working to determine the exact cause of diet-related DCM, but several theories have emerged. The leading theory is that certain dog food ingredients and characteristics may lead to taurine deficiency:
Taurine deficiency – Taurine is an amino acid that is essential for heart health in dogs. Some dog foods may not contain enough taurine, or the ingredients may interfere with dogs’ ability to absorb taurine. This can cause a taurine deficiency that leads to DCM.
Ingredients that inhibit taurine absorption – Some ingredients like high levels of legumes or excessive fiber are thought to potentially inhibit taurine absorption. This could reduce taurine levels even when the food contains adequate amounts.
High levels of legumes/starches – Diets heavy in legumes, lentils, peas, potatoes, or other carbohydrates may affect taurine metabolism and heart health. The carbohydrate content may lead to an amino acid imbalance.
Ongoing research aims to better understand how diet impacts heart health in dogs. But evidence points to diet-related DCM being associated with boutique, exotic-ingredient, or grain-free dog foods labeled as “BEG” diets. Following veterinary recommendations can help reduce DCM risks.
Raw yeast
Raw yeast cells multiply too quickly for dogs’ gastrointestinal tracts. When dogs swallow unbaked dough, it can continue to rise, creating a risk of blockage or even rupture of the dog’s GI tract. In instances when a very large amount of yeast is eaten, the yeast also ferments inside the dog, producing alcohol, in which case alcohol poisoning can occur. use your best judgement on when to involve the vet.
If you bake breads from scratch, or have yeast in your kitchen for any other reason, remember to keep it – rising dough in particular – in a safe, dog-proof location.
I admit a lot of this is copied I've added it just to provide some potentially important info:
Fruits, nuts & Vegetables
Apples – Yes. Apples are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, as well as fiber for your dog. They are low in protein and fat, making them the perfect snack for senior dogs. Just be sure to remove the seeds and core first. Try them frozen for an icy warm weather snack. Read More >
Bananas – Yes. In moderation, bananas are a great low-calorie treat for dogs. They’re high in potassium, vitamins, biotin, fiber, and copper. They are low in cholesterol and sodium, but because of their high sugar content, bananas should be given as a treat, not part of your dog’s regular diet.
Watermelon – Yes. It’s important to remove the rind and seeds first, as they can cause intestinal blockage, but watermelon is otherwise safe for dogs. It’s full of vitamin A, B-6, and C, as well as potassium. Watermelon is 92 percent water, so it’s a great way to keep your dog hydrated on hot summer days. Read more >
Grapes – No. Grapes and raisins have proved to be very toxic for dogs no matter the dog’s breed, sex, or age. In fact, grapes are so toxic that they can lead to acute sudden kidney failure. Definitely skip this dangerous treat. Read More >
Strawberries – Yes. Strawberries are full of fiber and vitamin C. Along with that, they also contain an enzyme that can help whiten your dog’s teeth as he or she eats them. They are high in sugar though, so be sure to give them in moderation. Read More >
Oranges – Yes. Small dogs can have up to 1/3 of a full-size orange, while large dogs can eat the whole thing. While the peel isn’t toxic to them, vets recommend tossing the peel and just giving your dog the inside of the orange, minus the seeds, as the peel is much more rough on their digestive systems than the fleshy inside of the orange.
Blueberries – Yes. Blueberries are a superfood rich in antioxidants, which prevent cell damage in humans and canines alike. They’re packed with fiber and phytochemicals as well. Teaching your dog to catch treats in the air? Try blueberries as an alternative to store-bought treats. Read More >
Carrots – Yes. Carrots are an excellent low-calorie snack that is high in fiber and beta-carotene, which produces vitamin A. Plus, crunching on the orange snacks is great for your dog’s teeth. Read More >
Tomatoes – No. While the ripened fruit of the tomato plant (the red part humans normally eat) is generally considered safe for dogs, the green parts of the plant contain a toxic substance called solanine. While a dog would need to eat a large amount for it to make him or her sick, it’s better to skip tomatoes all together just to be safe. Read More >
Pineapple – Yes. A few chunks of pineapple is a great sweet treat for dogs as long as the prickly outside is removed first. The tropical fruit is full of vitamins, minerals, and fiber. It also contains bromelain, an enzyme that makes it easier for dogs to absorb proteins. Read More >
Avocado – No. While avocado may be a healthy snack for dog owners, it should not be given to dogs at all. The pit, skin and leaves of avocados contain Persin, a toxin that often causes vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. The fleshy inside of the fruit doesn’t have as much Persin as the rest of the plant, but it is still too much for dogs to handle.
Broccoli – Yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to eat in very small quantities and is best served as an occasional treat. It is high in fiber and vitamin C and low in fat. On the surface, this makes it an appealing choice for dog owners looking for a healthy dog treat, but broccoli also contains a potentially harmful ingredient. Broccoli florets contain isothiocyanates, which can cause mild-to-potentially-severe gastric irritation in some dogs. Also, broccoli stalks have been known to cause obstruction in the esophagus.
Mushrooms – No. Wild mushrooms can be toxic for dogs. While only 50 to 100 of the 50,000 mushroom species worldwide are known to be toxic, the ones that are can really hurt your dog or even lead to death. Washed mushrooms from the supermarket could be OK, but it’s better to be safe than sorry; skip out on the fungi all together.
Cucumbers – Yes. Cucumbers are especially good for overweight dogs, as they hold little to no carbohydrates, fats, or oils and can even boost energy levels. They’re loaded with vitamins K, C, and B1, as well as potassium, copper, magnesium, and biotin.
Celery – Yes. In addition to vitamins A, B, and C, this crunchy green snack contains the nutrients needed to promote a healthy heart and even fight cancer. As if that wasn’t enough, celery also known to freshen doggy breath.
Onions – No. Onions, leeks, and chives are part of a family of plants called Allium that is poisonous to most pets, especially cats. Eating onions can cause your dog’s red blood cells to rupture, and can also cause vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, and nausea. Poisoning onions is more serious in Japanese breeds of dogs such as Akitas and Shiba Inus, but all dogs are very susceptible to it.
Pears – Yes. Pears are a great snack because they’re high in copper, vitamins C and K, and fiber. It’s been suggested that eating the fruit can reduce the risk of having a stroke by 50 percent. Just be sure to cut pears into bite-size chunks and remove the pit and seeds first, as the seeds contain traces of cyanide.
Potatoes – Yes. It’s fine to give your dog plain potatoes every once and a while, but only if they’re cooked, as raw potatoes can be rough on the stomach. A washed, peeled, plain boiled, or baked potato contains lots of iron for your pet. Avoid mashed potatoes because they often contain butter, milk, or seasonings.
Cherries – No. With the exception of the fleshy part around the seed, cherry plants contain cyanide and are toxic to dogs. Cyanide disrupts cellular oxygen transport, which means that your dog’s blood cells can’t get enough oxygen. If your dog eats cherries, be on the lookout for dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums, as these may be signs of cyanide poisoning.
Peaches – Yes. Small amounts of cut-up peaches are a great source of fiber and vitamin A, and can even help fight infections, but just like cherries, the pit does contain cyanide. As long as you completely cut around the pit first, fresh peaches can be a great summer treat – just not canned peaches, as they usually contain high amounts of sugary syrups.
Asparagus – No. While asparagus isn’t necessarily unsafe for dogs, there’s really no point in giving it to them. It’s too tough to be eaten raw, and by the time you cook it down so it’s soft enough for dogs to eat, asparagus loses the nutrients it contains. If you’re determined to give your dogs vegetables, go for something that will actually benefit them.
Sweet potatoes – Yes. Sweet potatoes are packed with nutrients, including fiber, beta carotene, and vitamins B-6 and C. Just like with regular potatoes, only give your dog washed, peeled, cooked, and unseasoned sweet potatoes that have cooled down, and definitely avoid sugary sweet potato pies and casseroles.
Raspberries – Yes. Raspberries are fine in moderation. They contain antioxidants that are great for dogs. They’re low in sugar and calories, but high in fiber, manganese, and vitamin C. Raspberries are especially good for senior dogs because they have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help take pain and pressure from joints. However, they do contain slight amounts of the toxin Xylitol, so limit your dog to less than a cup of raspberries at a time.
Mango – Yes. This sweet summer treat is packed with four, yes four different vitamins: vitamins A, B6, C, and E. They also have potassium and both beta-carotene and alpha carotene. Just remember, as with most fruits, to remove the hard pit first, as it contains small amounts of cyanide and can become a choking hazard.
macadamia nut
The good news is that we have no documented cases of macadamia nut poisoning that has led to death. It alleviates after it passes through the dog – in around 12 to 36 hours. The bad news is symptoms are dramatic. Hind-end weakness, lethargy, depression, vomiting, and diarrhea all come after eating as little as 1 gram of macadamia nuts per pound of a dog’s body weight.
Glucosamine & Tumeric for your older dog and you....
Like people, many dogs suffer from arthritis, especially as they age. This painful condition occurs when cartilage, the cushioning between the bones, begins to thin and wear away and the ends of the bones start to rub against each other. It may be caused by trauma, disease, or wear and tear that comes with use over years.
While there is no cure for arthritis, some treatments can lessen pain and improve mobility
No one knows exactly what the mechanism of action is, but the supplement, an amino sugar, appears to improve the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, one of the building blocks of cartilage. This is the tough connective tissue that cushions bones at the joints. The theory is that the supplement somehow stimulates chondrocytes or DNA activity that protects against joint degradation.
cartilage consists of several different cells, one of which is chondrocytes. Chondrocytes are responsible for synthesizing new cartilage. Through normal wear, cartilage is constantly being broken down and replaced. When a dog has hip dysplasia or ages, the chondrocytes do not have the building blocks available to them to build enough new cartilage to keep up with the breakdown of the old cartilage. Glucosamine provides the building blocks to synthesize new cartilage. Glucosamine is the building block necessary for the production of the substances called glycosaminoglycans. The glycosaminoglycans are combined with hyaluronic acid to make the substance proteoglycans. The proteoglycans and collagen are the main structures of cartilage.
Chondroitin blocks destructive enzymes that break down cartilage in the joint.
Chondroitin also is one of the products necessary for the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans. But it probably plays a more important role by combating and neutralizing destructive enzymes in the joint. There is always a low level of destructive enzymes found in the joint, but when injury or abnormal wear occurs, the destructive enzymes and agents increase accelerating cartilage destruction. When chondroitin is added to the diet it helps to reduce the level of these destructive enzymes.Glucosamine supplements are said to alleviate the symptoms of joint damage by boosting the repair of damaged cartilage, the moist, spongy material that forms a cushion between joints. Cartilage cells are constantly turning over, and when cartilage is damaged, the joint becomes inflamed and releases enzymes that cause more damage. This starts a cycle of joint degeneration.
The supplement has been used in veterinary practices in Europe and the U.S. for about 20 years.
Pharmaceutical grade glucosamine and chondroitin are used for humans and are found in some veterinary products. It is perfectly safe to use human glucosamine in your pet, however, products made for animals contain ascorbic acid (vitamin c) to help in the uptake, in canines. ( we just add a vitamin c tablet to the daily pill(s) and 'cookie' for being good and 'taking your pill' ) {I give an all in one glucosamine chondroitin msm turmeric and add the 'c' as a separate pill for our older 'kids' and us older featherless bipeds}
Turmeric in conjunction with glucosamine can help in reducing joint pain effectively. Whether you use the capsule form or powder in your dogs food adding 1/8 tsp. fresh pepper to one teaspoon of turmeric has a synergistic effect (makes the turmeric more effective). check on line for dosages ( disclaimer being I am not a practicing veterinarian)
A short simple site with information - of course they want you to buy their turmeric... nuff said. https://yourolddog.com/benefits-turmeric-dogs/
In 2007, scientists at the College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Georgia, Athens, conducted a similar review of 16 clinical trials of treatments for osteoarthritis in dogs. There were 16 studies that looked at drugs, as well as supplements. They reported their results in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association and found that preparations containing glucosamine provided a "moderate level" of comfort and was on a par with some prescription drugs.
since it is a sugar-based substance, some veterinarians are wary about its use in dogs with diabetes.
Glucosamine and chondroitin are also included in dog foods formulated for senior and performance dogs, many of whom are at risk for joint disease and injury.
It may take weeks to see improvement, and veterinarians recommend evaluating the effects of the treatment after your dog has been taking it for about three months.
Dog toothpaste
comes in several canine-friendly flavors, like peanut butter and chicken, and both child-sized toothbrushes with soft bristles or finger brushes are appropriate to use when cleaning your dog’s teeth at home. Human toothpaste, however, contains ingredients like xylitol, which is toxic to dogs and should be avoided.
Your veterinarian’s insistence that your canine companion needs a dental cleaning addresses far more than the issue of a dog’s stinky breath. Poor dental hygiene can result in a host of medical problems. Some of the more common issues are gingivitis, periodontal disease, tooth loss, infection, and difficulty eating.
Plaque builds up on canine teeth, just like it does on human teeth. Over time, a buildup of plaque can lead to inflammation of the gums, called gingivitis. Dogs with gingivitis may have red, inflamed gums that bleed easily, and you may also notice bad breath. If left untreated, gingivitis can lead to periodontitis.
Periodontitis can cause destruction to the connective tissues surrounding the tooth and can also damage the bone. Most concerning, however, is the detrimental effects periodontitis can have on your dog’s heart, kidneys, and liver.
Dogs can also benefit from dental cleanings at the vet’s office. These in-depth procedures take place under anesthesia and remove plaque below the gum line, where toothbrushes can’t reach. Dental cleanings are especially important for dog breeds with genetic predispositions for dental disease, like many small breeds, or dogs fed wet food.
Dog colds are not contagious to humans.
Zoonotic diseases can be spread between animals and people. You can’t catch a cold from your dog, any more than your dog can pick up a human strain of a cold virus from you. However, dog colds and influenza are highly contagious between dogs, which means we have to be careful not to help transmit the germs.
Colds spread through saliva and aerosol droplets. If you’ve been in contact with a sick dog, you could bring those germs home to your own pups on your hands or clothing. Letting your dog drink out of an infected dog’s water bowl or play with infected toys also increases the risk of contagion. While colds are rarely life-threatening, they can pose risks for very young and very old dogs as they can in humans , as well as canines with suppressed immune systems.
- signs of cancer in dogs
The National Cancer Institute’s Center for Cancer Research reports around six million dogs in the U.S. are diagnosed with spontaneous cancer every year. While better understanding of canine nutrition and advanced veterinary technology is prolonging the average dog’s lifespan, the risk of developing cancer increases as dogs age. Recent reports indicate about half of dogs over 10 years old are diagnosed with some type of cancer.1 We must take it upon ourselves as concerned pet parents to know the warning signs of canine cancer.
Dogs get cancer at around the same rate humans do, but the disease tends to progress faster for our canine friends. The key to fighting it has always been early detection. Without the ability to voice their feelings, dogs often go undiagnosed. Sometimes their disease shows no symptoms until it’s too late for medical intervention to help. In many cases, however, an observant owner can save their dog’s life.
Regardless of your dog’s age, breed, or perceived health, it’s important to know about these common signs of cancer. - 1. Unidentifiable Lumps
- One of the easiest cancer symptoms to recognize is the presence of a tumor growing beneath the skin. Sometimes lumps are benign cysts, but an unusual growth always warrants a trip to the veterinarian. The lump needs to be removed and tested for the presence of cancer.
Just as there are several different kinds of cancer, there are several kinds of cancerous tumors. Mast cell tumors grow quickly and tend to itch and look inflamed. Snub-nosed dog breeds like Boxers and French Bulldogs develop this type of tumor more than other breeds. Other types of tumors include histiocytoma tumors that are typically small and hairless, and tumors related to lymphoma are characterized by lymph node swelling under the jaw and behind the knees.6
Veterinarians encourage dog owners to inspect their pets’ skin at least once a month. Tumors can be large, but a small lump the size of a breath mint can be equally as dangerous.
2. Sudden Weight Loss
As long as the dog isn’t on a strict diet, their weight should remain relatively steady. Noticing weight loss is easiest in small dogs that are picked up often and dogs with short hair. A good way to quickly judge a dog’s weight is to look at them from above to see if their waistline looks more defined than it used to be. You can also palpate their sides regularly to feel how close their ribs are to their skin.
It’s harder to judge weight loss in big dogs with lots of fur. A 70-pound rough Collie with progressing cancer could be losing weight, but their fur and the lack of a convenient scale could mean the symptom goes unnoticed. For these dogs, it’s important to either bring them to the vet regularly for check ups or devise a method of checking their weight at home.
3. Lack of Appetite
Sometimes dogs push away their dinner when they have an upset stomach, and they’re usually back to eating within a day. Dogs that don’t act hungry for more than two days at a time, however, could be dealing with something more serious.
A tumor pressing against the intestines is a common reason why dogs stop eating. Food going through a cramped intestine is uncomfortable, and the dog quickly decides not eating is the way to make themselves feel better.5 If it’s cancer, regaining appetite is essential for recovery. Cancer will drain the body’s energy and make it harder for the immune system to fight back. Nutrients derived from food will be essential to keep up the dog’s strength.
4. Stiffness or Lameness
It’s normal for senior dogs to slow down, and trouble standing up, walking, or climbing stairs could be due to osteoarthritis. There’s also a chance painful movements are caused by bone cancer called osteosarcoma.
Osteosarcoma is a tumor that develops on the bone. It can affect any bone in the body but is most often found near the shoulders and knees. In the beginning stages, the tumor may not be noticeable by looking at the dog. It will, however, affect how they move. Canine Cancer explains,
“Osteosarcoma develops deep within the bone and becomes progressively more painful as it grows outward and the bone is destroyed from the inside out. Lameness may occur suddenly or start intermittently and progress over several weeks. Obvious swelling becomes evident as the tumor grows and normal bone is replaced by tumorous bone.”
5. Lethargy
It’s normal for a dog to spend a few hours a day snoozing. Most dogs sleep between 12 and 14 hours a day.3 That number will ultimately depend on your dog’s age, breed, and personality, but too much sleep or a sudden decrease in activity could be a sign of cancer.
The main difference between normal exhaustion and lethargy has to do with the dog’s enthusiasm level. A dog that’s simply tired will drag themselves off the couch with a wagging tail for the chance at food or to play their favorite game. A lethargic dog, however, will lose all interest in their favorite things. Their reactions to things that would normally excite them are either delayed, strained, or they don’t react at al
6. Open Sores That Don’t Heal
A sore on the dog’s skin that lasts for months without healing needs to be seen by a veterinarian. The wound can be crusty and bleed randomly when irritated. Antibiotics and topical creams won’t help it go away, and it can be located in any area of the dog’s body including toes, scrotum, and nose.
Scottish Terriers, Boxers, Poodles, Dalmatians, Beagles, and Whippets are considered high risk for this type of cancer, and dogs with white fur and light-colored skin are also more at risk.8
“A squamous cell carcinoma is a type of cancer that originates in the squamous epithelium. It may appear to be a white skin mass, or a raised bump on the skin. Often the raised mass will necrotize in the center and ulcerate, with occasional bleeding.- 7. Changes in Bathroom Habits
- Going to the bathroom more than normal, less than normal, and not at all are all signs of trouble. In most cases, urination problems relate to conditions affecting the kidneys, bladder, or urethra. Cancer in the rectum, anus, colon, and intestines often causes constipation, diarrhea, and other changes in the dog’s stool. It’s possible for a dog to be defecating normally but stop urinating, and vice versa.5
If you notice your dog seems strained or in pain while doing their business, there could be a tumor causing problems somewhere in the digestive tract. It’s also important to inspect a dog’s feces on a regular basis. Stool that is black, tarry, or has blood in it could be a symptom of cancer.
8. Breathing Difficulties
There are several different types of cancer that affect the respiratory system. Lung cancer most often develops in dogs 10 years and older, but all dogs are susceptible to having malignant tumors in their lungs and other parts of the respiratory tract. Symptoms usually present as labored breathing and shortness of breath.7
the dog might also develop a persistent cough, and their normal breathing can sound wheezy. You might notice your usually athletic dog gets winded after only a few minutes of jogging. Dogs that exhibit abnormal panting might also have cancer affecting their respiratory system. PetMD advises, - “Owners should get a feel for what is normal for their dogs before any health problems develop. How does your dog breathe when he is at rest? While going for a walk? After vigorous play? With this knowledge in hand, you will be able to pick up subtle changes in your dog’s respiratory rate and effort before a crisis develops.”
- 9. Unusual Smell
- Gas and bad breath are usually harmless, but exceedingly bad smells coming from the dog’s mouth or anus could mean something more. Tumors in the anus, mouth, or throat open a window for bacterial growth and can produce smells. Some dog owners assume their pets are especially gassy, but there’s the possibility the bad smells originate from a tumor in the rectum.
- Oral cancer is difficult to treat and progresses quickly. Tumors are most often found on the roof of the mouth and around the upper teeth.4 You might also notice your dog eating their food without chewing or only chewing on one side of their mouth to avoid a tender area.10. Behavioral Changes
- A dog’s behavior is a clear indication of how they’re feeling. If your gentle, happy dog is suddenly acting aggressively, it could be because they’re in pain. When dogs don’t feel well, they tend to withdraw. Being jostled and touched in sore areas can cause them more pain, and they lash out to keep people away.
- A dog that used to love being picked up or having their stomach rubbed might start avoiding human contact. It’s easy to take their behavior personally, but it’s their way of telling you something isn’t right. Internal tumors can go unnoticed for months, and the longer they’re left to grow, the more damage they cause. A slight change in a dog’s behavior is often the only external indication that cancer is wreaking havoc on the dog’s health.
Acral Lick Granulomas
Lick granulomas in dogs are caused by multiple factors. This condition is believed to be both physical and psychological in nature. Typically, lick granulomas occur because of boredom fear, anxiety or obsessive-compulsive disorder.
Underlying conditions that may trigger lick granulomas include:Stress, Allergies, Skin infections, Trauma–injury, Pain, Behavioral abnormalities and Osteoarthritis
The most common cause for acral lick granulomas is allergy, either environmental or food sensitivity. This condition occurs mainly in medium- to large-breed dogs, most commonly affecting:
A complete physical examination may help your vet determine the underlying cause of the skin lesion. They may also recommend an x-ray of the limb to check for any arthritis or other bone/joint condition that could be causing pain or discomfort.
Treatment for a lick granuloma is largely based on the underlying cause. An the ‘cone of shame’ (Elizabethan collar and many new options are great – I like the old style shape but in a soft version) is extremely important to prevent further self-harm—both before you can see the vet and afterward, during treatment. Bandages should be placed only with the guidance of your veterinarian, because covering an infected wound traps in moisture, often prevents healing, and can make the condition worse. Added note on bandage – we’ve seen blockages from eaten bandage material.
If your vet suspects that your dog has a food allergy, a food trial will begin, placing your dog on a very limited ingredient diet. It is essential that during this time, all other foods be prohibited from your dog’s diet, including treats. Medications such as antibiotics, antifungals, anti-inflammatory and pain medications, anti-anxiety drugs, and/or antihistamines might be prescribed. Topical therapy with creams, wipes, or shampoos is often recommended to help with infection.
Warranty
note on warranty medications - we routinely send home the next round of de-wormer / bacterial parasite control medications to help ensure your pup stays healthy. change of environment stress such as change of water / food / surroundings can allow any parasites present to have a greater impact on your pup. we start treating pups at 3 weeks old and every couple weeks until they go home. pups get parasites as part of being a dog and it is something you will need to address as treatment and or prevention for your dogs life. we've heard of people disregarding any further vaccinations or parasite control as they say their pup had that before they got him/her and that was it. parasite control and vaccinations are something that need to be addressed as a lifetime commitment for the healthy life of your pet.
PUPPY WARRANTY
Buyer has been advised of any pertinent medical history and current status of immunity.
Your puppy has a 72-hour warranty against infectious communicable diseases and as such buyer is urged to have their pup checked by a licensed veterinarian within 72 hours from the time date buyer takes possession of pup. Parasites are excluded from the warranty. While we do routinely check and treat as needed worms and protozoan may be common in the course of a pup’s life. In the event puppy is found to be sufficiently medically unsound as to warrant return, the buyer shall immediately notify the seller. Should a warranty claim ever be made a written statement (legible) of all findings and records on pup since leaving breeder shall be sent directly from the examining vet. In the unlikely event a pup were to die - laboratory confirmation of cause of death or a necropsy will be required. It is the buyer’s monetary responsibility to return said pup to seller. Puppy will be replaced with a like puppy as soon as one becomes available. Your pup is further warranted against life threatening congenital defects until a year old. In no case shall refund and /or compensation exceed price of pup. Abuse or accident voids warranty. It is clearly understood that the seller shall NOT assume liability for any veterinary expenses incurred by the buyer unless through prior arrangements.
Sale is to be considered initiated and finalized in Cumberland County Tennessee. This warranty is accepted as sole recourse.
D.O.B._______________ sex___ color__________________________
Price __________ date _________________ litter#________________
vaccinations ______________________________________________
Next vaccination due ___________________wormed_______________
Medications sent home if any _______________________________________
________________________________________________________
Buyer___________________________________________________
Address__________________________________________________
E-mail__________________________ phone ___________________
Seller ___________________ buyer____________________________
Signs a Dog Is Choking
Don’t panic. If your dog is awake and aware, they’re likely panicking and might bite or hurt you if thrashing around. Here’s what to do:
Restrain your dog—do not muzzle them. Carefully pry open the jaws, using both hands (one on the upper and one on the lower jaw), and fold the dog’s lips over their teeth so that there’s a layer between them and your fingers.
If you don’t see an object, do not insert anything down your dog’s throat, (including your hand), as that could hurt your dog.
If none of these options work and your dog is still in distress or unconscious. It’s time to see a vet ASAP
If your dog is seriously choking and you’ve been unable to help your best bet is to get your dog to the vet or a veterinary hospital as quickly as possible. Once there, your vet will confirm whether your dog is choking or some other cause of the ‘choking’ Your dog may need to be sedated so that removing the object is easier. In extreme and rare cases of complete obstruction, your vet may perform a tracheotomy to allow air to bypass the obstruction.
HEIMLICH video https://youtu.be/7SuqIvC1rsU
Only move on to the Heimlich maneuver if you can’t get to the vet in time and your pet appears to be gasping for last breaths.
Heimlich Maneuver for Small dogs
Lay the dog on their back. Find the soft spot on the abdomen under the ribs. Using the heel of your hand, gently press inwards and upwards.
For small dogs, you can also try turning them upside down or slapping their back while they're in the wheelbarrow position.
Heimlich Maneuver for Large dogs
Note: Only attempt the Heimlich maneuver if you do not have enough time to make it to the vet. Ideally, have a vet on the phone to help walk you through doing what you can.
OPTIONS
Stand the dog on their hind legs and hold them like a person with their back to your front. Find the soft spot on the abdomen under the ribs. Using your fist, thrust inwards and upwards.
Lay the dog on their side. Find the soft spot on their abdomen under the ribs. Supporting them from the back, press a fist upwards and inwards towards their spine.
After the Heimlich
For any size or breed of dog, after using the Heimlich, place your dog on their side. Do a mouth sweep to remove any dislodged objects.
If your dog is not breathing, perform CPR video’s https://youtu.be/3JHdrojxzSw https://youtu.be/KqClwoUrgZA
Take any dog that has experienced a Heimlich maneuver or any form of choking to the vet for assessment, especially for chest and throat injuries.
Prevention when possible
Don't play fetch with your dog using a ball that could obstruct its airway. For example, do not use a racquetball to play you’re your large retriever.
treat your domicile and grounds as you a would toddler wandering around and getting into everything they shouldn't. If you have an aggressive chewer always purchase extra-tough options. Don't leave objects within their reach that may be tempting to chew on.
feed dog food that is appropriately sized for your dog, young or old, large or small.
Giving your dog bones larger raw beef bones to chew is beneficial for tooth and gums stimulation but beware if they chew it down to a small size that could be easily swallowed in their opinion. *off note raw chicken bones are fine cooked are dangerous as they splinter easily.
Signs a Dog Is Choking
- might hear high-pitched squeaking or whistling. If their airway is blocked you may see them have difficulty breathing or in severe cases your dog could even collapse.
Don’t panic. If your dog is awake and aware, they’re likely panicking and might bite or hurt you if thrashing around. Here’s what to do:
Restrain your dog—do not muzzle them. Carefully pry open the jaws, using both hands (one on the upper and one on the lower jaw), and fold the dog’s lips over their teeth so that there’s a layer between them and your fingers.
- Look in their mouth, using a small flashlight (like the one on your phone) if one is readily available. Do a mouth sweep—with your index finger, hook or pull-out small objects that are easily removed, such as bones or sticks.
- If you see a small object that is impossible to remove with a mouth sweep, such as food or rawhide, large tweezers or small tongs may work. (I have long forceps) Do not push at it, as it could become more firmly lodged in the throat.
- If you see a large object, such as a ball or toy, press your thumbs underneath both sides of the dog’s jaw near the base of the throat and press upwards. This might dislodge it.
If you don’t see an object, do not insert anything down your dog’s throat, (including your hand), as that could hurt your dog.
If none of these options work and your dog is still in distress or unconscious. It’s time to see a vet ASAP
If your dog is seriously choking and you’ve been unable to help your best bet is to get your dog to the vet or a veterinary hospital as quickly as possible. Once there, your vet will confirm whether your dog is choking or some other cause of the ‘choking’ Your dog may need to be sedated so that removing the object is easier. In extreme and rare cases of complete obstruction, your vet may perform a tracheotomy to allow air to bypass the obstruction.
HEIMLICH video https://youtu.be/7SuqIvC1rsU
Only move on to the Heimlich maneuver if you can’t get to the vet in time and your pet appears to be gasping for last breaths.
Heimlich Maneuver for Small dogs
Lay the dog on their back. Find the soft spot on the abdomen under the ribs. Using the heel of your hand, gently press inwards and upwards.
For small dogs, you can also try turning them upside down or slapping their back while they're in the wheelbarrow position.
Heimlich Maneuver for Large dogs
Note: Only attempt the Heimlich maneuver if you do not have enough time to make it to the vet. Ideally, have a vet on the phone to help walk you through doing what you can.
OPTIONS
Stand the dog on their hind legs and hold them like a person with their back to your front. Find the soft spot on the abdomen under the ribs. Using your fist, thrust inwards and upwards.
Lay the dog on their side. Find the soft spot on their abdomen under the ribs. Supporting them from the back, press a fist upwards and inwards towards their spine.
After the Heimlich
For any size or breed of dog, after using the Heimlich, place your dog on their side. Do a mouth sweep to remove any dislodged objects.
If your dog is not breathing, perform CPR video’s https://youtu.be/3JHdrojxzSw https://youtu.be/KqClwoUrgZA
Take any dog that has experienced a Heimlich maneuver or any form of choking to the vet for assessment, especially for chest and throat injuries.
Prevention when possible
Don't play fetch with your dog using a ball that could obstruct its airway. For example, do not use a racquetball to play you’re your large retriever.
treat your domicile and grounds as you a would toddler wandering around and getting into everything they shouldn't. If you have an aggressive chewer always purchase extra-tough options. Don't leave objects within their reach that may be tempting to chew on.
feed dog food that is appropriately sized for your dog, young or old, large or small.
Giving your dog bones larger raw beef bones to chew is beneficial for tooth and gums stimulation but beware if they chew it down to a small size that could be easily swallowed in their opinion. *off note raw chicken bones are fine cooked are dangerous as they splinter easily.
Shipping- your pup and the Airlines
check with the airlines you wish to fly on for current requirements
please be aware of temperature restrictions for the safety of your pup. if it is below 20 degrees or over 80 degrees at arrival time we'll need to watch the weather and catch an opening. this can be a few days to not going to happen for a month plus for desert areas. we will meet folks at the airport at a small fee for those wanting to fly in as your pup as carry on with you will remove the temperature restriction. you will need a soft side carrier that can fit under the seat in front of you so please be sure when you book your flight you let them know you plans. be sure to inquire about additional cost if any for exchanging one of your carry-on for the pups carrier. some airlines may charge for this 'privilege'. additionally find out of they require a health certificate for pup as carry on. shipping separate does require the certificate although folks we have met say they have not been required to have that. obviously, this will not apply to an older larger pup, while you can fly with them, they would have to go in the special acclimatized hold, and you'll need to check on temperature restrictions for that. you are of course welcome to come to the farm.
check with the airlines you wish to fly on for current requirements
please be aware of temperature restrictions for the safety of your pup. if it is below 20 degrees or over 80 degrees at arrival time we'll need to watch the weather and catch an opening. this can be a few days to not going to happen for a month plus for desert areas. we will meet folks at the airport at a small fee for those wanting to fly in as your pup as carry on with you will remove the temperature restriction. you will need a soft side carrier that can fit under the seat in front of you so please be sure when you book your flight you let them know you plans. be sure to inquire about additional cost if any for exchanging one of your carry-on for the pups carrier. some airlines may charge for this 'privilege'. additionally find out of they require a health certificate for pup as carry on. shipping separate does require the certificate although folks we have met say they have not been required to have that. obviously, this will not apply to an older larger pup, while you can fly with them, they would have to go in the special acclimatized hold, and you'll need to check on temperature restrictions for that. you are of course welcome to come to the farm.
