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I'm happy to share useful information below from training to medical to older dogs to feeding to ... well I tend to ramble so I've used bold headers so you can scan faster or use a control F search feature on your keyboard to find a word. I will attempt to organize this into categories. This blog is a work in progress so please bear with me. If you have a question you not see on our blog, please do contact us as you are probably not the only one and I will research and address it for you.

Monthly Heart Guard

1/26/2023

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This is non negotiable. Mosquitoes can be out on warm days in February. Heart worms are very serious and as such need to be prevented from maturing.

While I normally disdain use of chemicals this one is too important and I know of no holistic or herbal substitute.

The mosquito plays an essential role in the heart worm life cycle. Adult female heart worms living in an infected dog, fox, coyote, or wolf produce microscopic baby worms called microfilaria that circulate in the bloodstream. When a mosquito bites and takes a blood meal from an infected animal, it picks up these baby worms, which develop and mature into “infective stage” larvae over a period of 10 to 14 days.

​Then, when the infected mosquito bites another dog, cat, or susceptible wild animal, the infective larvae are deposited onto the surface of the animal's skin and enter the new host through the mosquito’s bite wound. Once inside a new host, it takes approximately 6 months for the larvae to mature into adult heart worms. Once mature, heart worms can live for 5 to 7 years in dogs and up to 2 or 3 years in cats. Because of the longevity of these worms, each mosquito season can lead to an increasing number of worms in an infected pet.
​
Note that in as little as 51 days, immature heart worm larvae can molt into an adult stage, which can't be effectively eliminated by preventives.  it is  important that heart worm preventives be administered  in a timely manner every month.  mark your calendar - put a note on the refrigerator - however you need to be reminded just do it.
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Flea and tick medicine warning - just an FYI

1/26/2023

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(Sept 2018 ) the U.S. Food and Drug Administration put out a frightening warning for pet owners and vets: certain flea and tick medications—isoxazoline class drugs—have the potential to cause seizures and other neurological effects in cats and dogs. But even if they're currently taking those medications, this warning doesn't necessarily mean your precious pet is in danger. Here's what you need to know.

Which medicines are covered in the warning?

Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard, and Simparica are the FDA-approved drugs in the isoxazoline class. Those are the only drugs included in this warning. All of these medications are chewable tablets; folks who rely on spot-on pesticides such as Frontline or Advantage are 100 percent in the clear. There are also several brands of tablets that are not in the isoxazoline class, and therefore not included in this warning. Don't assume this warning automatically means your pet is at risk, especially if they haven't taken the four drugs listed above.

What does this warning actually mean?

The FDA's warning does not mean your pet is going to have a seizure, even if they're taking these drugs. According to the FDA, most dogs and cats do not have adverse reactions to isoxazoline. They "can and have been safely used in the majority of dogs and cats," according to the agency's statement. But because there have been reports of muscle tremors, ataxia (the loss of control of bodily movements), and seizures even in animals with no prior history of such problems, the agency will have manufacturers include warnings of these potential side-effects on drug packaging.

https://www.popsci.com/flea-tick-seizure-fda
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Emergency Planning For Pets

1/26/2023

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Please plan ahead to care for your dogs in natural disasters. Leaving this plan posted where another person can find it if needed.  not that you need another thing stuck on the refrigerator but...
Individual dog owners can be disabled by accidents or illness; therefore, owners are urged to advise neighbors, family, and friends about how to care for their dogs in emergency situations. we've  always suggested a "Godparent'' for your dogs,  preferably not a close relative as a family emergency could involve everyone rushing to the family need or heaven forbid funeral. Perhaps someone you can exchange pet sitting duties with that your dog will know beforehand. Certain times of the year a spot in a boarding just will not be available on a last minute notice.
                        Create an Emergency Evacuation Plan for You and Your Dog
Tornadoes, earthquakes, floods – emergencies strike out of the blue. Evacuating your home is often necessary for safety reasons. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog behind in the danger zone. But emergencies can be highly stressful, and without careful planning, you may find yourself in a panic with no clue about what to do. Creating an emergency evacuation plan will help you handle any unexpected disaster calmly and safely. Pet disaster preparedness means incorporating your dog and other pets into your evacuation plan so you’re prepared to meet their needs and keep them free from harm.

Understand the Pets Act
You have a legal right to include your pets in an evacuation thanks to the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act (also known as the Pets Act), a bipartisan initiative that resulted in significant changes to federal and state emergency planning laws after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. The Pets Act requires states seeking assistance from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to accommodate service animals and pets in their evacuation plans in the case of a disaster. As a result, there are now many federal and state laws that include specifications for the evacuation, rescue, and recovery of animals as well as provisions for sheltering, identification, and tracking.
Create Your Own Emergency Evacuation Plan
Although over 30 states have laws addressing animals in evacuation planning, you can’t skip developing your own household evacuation plans. Follow the instructions of local authorities in the moment but be prepared with what you need and where to go. You should be able to leave your home at a moment’s notice with your family and pets accounted for. Being prepared will help you think clearly and keep you calm during a crisis. This is important because your dog can sense your emotions. If you panic, it will agitate your dog. Therefore, pet disaster preparedness will not only reduce your anxiety but will help reduce your pet’s anxiety too.
It’s not enough to leave dogs in a safe place to fend for themselves during an emergency. They can get lost, injured, or worse. Evacuating together can save your dog’s life. Otherwise, you put yourself and first responders in danger as attempts are made to save your pet.
Remember that you might not be home when disaster strikes. Plan for being away from your pets and/or being unable to get to them. Consider making arrangements with someone who can get to your dog when you can’t like a neighbor, dog walker, pet sitter, or local doggy daycare. And place a rescue alert sticker at your front door to let people know there are pets inside your house. Be sure it includes the types and number of pets you own as well as your veterinarian’s phone number. If you are able to take your pets with you during an evacuation, please write “Evacuated” across the sticker if time allows so rescue workers don’t waste precious time at your home.


Prepare Your Dog for Disaster
Make sure your dog is ready for anything. First, keep your dog’s vaccinations up to date in case your dog must stay at a shelter during an evacuation. Second, microchip your dog. A microchip allows veterinarians and shelter workers to scan your pet and access your contact information. It could be essential to being reunited with your dog if you get separated. Keep your dog’s microchip registration up to date with your most recent phone number and address. But don’t forget the low-tech option too. Your dog should be wearing a collar with up-to-date identification tags. Finally, have copies of all your dog’s important documents. Consider including:

    vaccination certificates and most recent heartworm test results.
    information about any health concerns, medications, or behavior problems.
    contact information for your veterinarian.
    identification information including proof of ownership and a current photo of you with your dog in case your dog gets lost.


You also need to have your dog’s travel equipment at hand, preferably in an uncluttered area near your door. You should have a leash ready to go as well as equipment for safe car travel such as a harness and pet seat belt strap. Also consider buying a pet carrier for each of your dogs. You can use the carrier for transport but also as a safe place for your dog to rest during stops or at your final destination. Make sure to write your dog’s name and your contact information on the carrier. Ensure your dog is comfortable in the carrier ahead of time by feeding treats and meals in the carrier and taking practice drives.
Assemble a Go Bag for Your Dog - aka bugout bag in prepper-speak.
A pet disaster preparedness kit should include everything your dog will need in an emergency evacuation. Consider your dog’s basic needs, safety, and any medical issues. Keep it in an easy-to-carry waterproof container and store it where you can easily get to it. Your dog’s go-bag should include items such as:
    bottled drinking water (during an emergency, tap water can be contaminated).
    food in waterproof containers or cans. (Choose pop-top tins or pack a can opener.) Bring enough for at least two weeks.
    food and water bowls.
    prescription medications and other required health supplies such as tick medication and heartworm preventative.
    a dog first aid kit.
    poop bags and other clean-up supplies.
    familiar items like toys, bedding, and blankets to comfort your dog.
    stress-relieving items like an anxiety vest or calming sprays if your dog is prone to anxiety.



 Documentation (especially important when traveling) your dog’s license, vaccination records, medical records, and veterinarian contact information along with your own contact information can help in an emergency, especially when the details are up to date and in one place. Your phone may be a convenient storage location, but if it isn’t accessible or if internet service is interrupted, you’ll want those hard-copy backups. 
 A towel or blanket (thermal is my preference) https://www.amazon.com/s?k=thermal+blanket&language=en_US&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&tag=belvoir0f-20&ref=as_li_ss_tl
An injured or panicking dog can be soothed and calmed by being gently wrapped in a soft blanket or thick towel, which can also protect a dog lying on a hot or cold, hard, or rocky surface. 
Keeping an injured animal warm is important to prevent the life-threatening effects of shock, a state in which the animal becomes hypothermic and his blood flow is severely impaired. Low blood flow can lead to damage of the vital organs like the brain and the heart.  On any but very hot days, use a thermal blanket (also known as emergency, rescue, or space blanket) to keep the injured dog warm. These blankets are waterproof, lightweight, and take up very little room in first-aid kits.
We keep a couple of the mylar blankets in the car for emergency use also.
 https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-%EF%BC%8CDesigned-Retention-%EF%BC%8CMarathons-Aid%E3%80%82ANMEILU/dp/B075YP8ZY8/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=thermal+blanket&linkCode=sl2&linkId=18e4606068e9a60c7363d09d985e13b1&qid=1668444860&sr=8-9
A commercial first-aid kit can be used as the foundation of a more complete kit that you add to and customize for your needs.
Bandages.  Gauze (sterile gauze pads or gauze rolls), nonstick gauze pads,  self-adhesive bandage material such as co-flex ( I prefer colored as you can see the wrap is still in place – that helps me on the horse across the pasture )   not only as wrap but can create a makeshift muzzle if one is needed, and fabric strips can control or absorb blood, support sprained muscles. Wooden splints can be added to support suspected bone fractures. Note that too-tight taping interferes with circulation – a concern with the co flex or any stretchable bandage.
2” x 5 Yards Self Adhesive Bandage Breathable Cohesive Bandage is my preferred.
In between the tool and bandage thoughts.. 
If you feel up to it I like a skin stapler – can be a great ‘fix’ or stop gap while getting to the vet. Very easy to use. (my mother used to fall a lot in her old age…  she was tired of ER visits just get a few staples in her scalp and the $$ of it – she requested I get one for her.)
https://www.amazon.com/eMedical-Kits-Stapler-Remover-Kit/dp/B07N2ZK2V9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RAJGGDPZQR14&keywords=skin+stapler&qid=1668446120&sprefix=skin+st%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3
Tools. This category includes blunt-tip bandage scissors, tweezers, forceps,  disposable gloves, syringes, a flashlight with fresh batteries, a magnifying glass, collapsible food or water bowls, pickup bags, spare leash and collar.  
A soft muzzle that fits your dog is a good companion piece  ( note the co flex again works well ) because any dog can bite or snap when in pain, so having one on your dog while he’s being moved or examined can help prevent injury to human helpers. Has come in handy more than once when we’ve helped dogs hit by a car and the cretins kept going.
 Wound cleaner, antiseptic rinse, saline solution.  The first step in treating most wounds is removing dust, sand, gravel, mud, or other debris. Rinse the wound with plain water or a saline solution, especially if you can apply it with a hose, syringe, turkey baster, or squeeze bottle. Medical-grade saline solution, which is sold in pharmacies, has many first-aid uses, including rinsing the eyes. Scissors or clippers can be used to remove hair around the wound, if necessary. 
Once the wound is rinsed, blot it with a clean towel, gauze, or cotton balls. (personally, I don’t care for cotton balls as they leave little ‘strands’ For minor wounds, apply a non-stinging antiseptic rinse or spray. Most first-aid kits include chlorhexidine products.
https://www.amazon.com/VetSol-Wound-Solution-Scrapes-Animals/dp/B0952C2P9D/ref=sr_1_15?crid=1L9FE8O7QRSRN&keywords=nolvasan+solution&qid=1668446525&sprefix=nolv%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-15
5. Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide has long been used as a disinfecting rinse for cuts and abrasions, but its topical application has become controversial. Research shows that hydrogen peroxide may not affect all harmful bacteria, leaving some to infect treated wounds, and it damages fibroblasts, which are cells essential to the healing process. BETTER to use normal saline solution (cheapest / easiest is eye contact lens rinse – just saline without other buffers)
However, hydrogen peroxide still has an important place in your first-aid kit because, when swallowed, it induces vomiting making it useful in cases of poisoning. Vomiting is not appropriate for all toxic exposures, so be sure to follow the advice of your veterinarian, poison control center, or first-aid handbook.
When vomiting is recommended, the usual dose is 1 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide (widely available in grocery and drug stores) per 5 pounds of body weight with a maximum dose of 3 tablespoons for dogs who weigh more than 45 pounds (there are three teaspoons in a tablespoon). 
Lift your dog’s chin and squirt the hydrogen peroxide into the side of your dog’s mouth with a syringe or eyedropper. Some foaming at the mouth may occur. If vomiting doesn’t begin within 15 minutes, the treatment can be repeated once.
To be sure hydrogen peroxide is effective when you need it, purchase small rather than large bottles and keep track of expiration dates. (I like the little spray bottles) Hydrogen peroxide loses its effectiveness with age and after opening. As long as it still bubbles it has some efficacy.  
situations when you might have to make your dog vomit and when you shouldn’t,
When You Should Make Your Dog Throw Up:
If your dog ingests human medication or a goodly dose of another dog’s medications, it’s a good idea to make the dog vomit.
Circumstances Which It Depends on What Your Dog Swallowed:
Say your dog swallows a golf ball or your daughter’s teddy bear. Depending on the size of your dog versus the object, inducing vomiting might be a good idea, but many times, the object needs to be removed with an endoscope. In these cases, confer with your veterinarian regarding the probability that the object could make it back up your dog’s throat if vomiting was induced.
You Probably Should Not Make Your Dog Vomit If:
Your dog drinks an acidic substance such as bleach or a household cleaner, or eats a sharp-edged item. Inducing vomiting in these cases is more safely accomplished under the direct supervision of a veterinarian who can weigh the risks and benefits and act quickly if the plan goes south.
Do NOT Make Your Dog Throw Up If:
If your dog is sedate, comatose, or displaying signs of neurologic impairment or seizures, do not induce vomiting. you run a high risk of complications from aspiration.
Although it’s best to act within an hour of ingestion, inducing vomiting can be effective up to four hours post-ingestion in some cases. The caveat is that you should always consult a veterinarian or one of the veterinary phone consult toxicology services before inducing vomiting!
Who to Contact If Your Dog Eats Something Toxic
If your dog’s choice of poison is something more exotic, such as a cocktail of grandma’s beta blockers, statins, and anti-anxiety meds, you’d be better off making your first call to an animal poison control hotline.
There are two phone consult toxicology services, both offering consultations 24/7 and run by veterinarians:
1. ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435. Fee: $65 payable at time of call by credit card.
2. Pet Poison Help Line: (855) 764-7661. Fee: $39 payable at time of call by credit card.
 
Antibiotic ointment.  Conventional first-aid kits generally come with an antibiotic ointment like Neosporin, which can be applied to cuts, abrasions, puncture wounds, and other injuries to prevent infection. For those who prefer alternative wound dressings, products that contain medical-grade Manuka honey, colloidal silver, or other natural disinfectants are widely available. 
Ointments are typically applied to a wound that has been rinsed and blotted or air-dried and then, if needed, protected with a nonstick gauze pad that’s taped or wrapped in place. Most wound-salve instructions recommend replacing ointment and bandages twice or three times per day while the injury heals. 
My first aid kit is a bit more extensive – includes people and critter.   I lean to alternative treatments also.  A few to get you pointed in that direction – take it from there.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Alginate-Dimora-Absorbent-Non-Stick-Individual/dp/B0834VF9G5/ref=asc_df_B0834VF9G5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507467652717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15498688758012287207&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013701&hvtargid=pla-1272331952284&psc=1
 
https://www.amazon.com/Colloidal-Silver-Gel-4-oz/dp/B07C9TLBBX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=MSGGRN3650B3&keywords=silver+ppm+gel&qid=1668444323&sprefix=silver+pp%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2
 
 Styptic powder or collagen hydrolysate. Styptics are antiseptic clotting agents such as alum, ferric subsulfate, or herbs such as powdered goldenseal or yarrow. Styptic pencils, which place styptic powder directly on bleeding wounds, are convenient, but any styptic powder can be applied in small amounts using a cotton swab or spoon as an applicator. Dog groomers use styptic powder to control the bleeding of over-trimmed nails, and other styptics reduce bleeding after medical procedures such as biopsies. 
A recent development in the treatment of bleeding wounds is a medical hydrolysate Type I collagen that acts as a tissue adhesive that stops bleeding, protects wounds, reduces scarring, and conforms to any wound site. The Hymed Group (hymed.com) manufactures EMT Gel and EMT Spray for general wound care and Collasate gel and spray for surgical, traumatic, and superficial wounds, first- and second-degree burns, foot-pad injuries, hot spots, and lick granulomas. 
 Bottled water and hydrating fluid. Water is an essential ingredient in any first-aid kit because it has so many practical uses, from rinsing wounds to helping prevent dehydration. Consider a non salt based electrolyte solution.  I use a product from amazon you add to your bottled water. 40,000 volts – nice mix of minerals although it does have salt
 Wet wipes or grooming wipes. Keep a supply of pet grooming wipes; they come in handy for many purposes. Don’t use alcohol-based disinfecting wipes, because alcohol stings and can damage injured tissue. Instead, look for products that soothe while they clean.
Hot and cold packs. Cold packs can help cool sprains, bruises, and other injuries and reduce inflammation and swelling. Hot packs can increase circulation, help the dog feel warm and comfortable, support a dog recovering from shock or injury, and speed healing.
These treatments are easy to provide at home, where you can keep a cold pack in the freezer and heat a hot pack in the microwave, wrap a hot water bottle in a towel, or use an electric heating pad designed for animals. But if you’re away, a few instant hot packs and instant cold packs will be convenient. They are sold in pharmacies and pet supply stores. To activate either product, squeeze or massage the pack, wrap it in a towel, and apply it to the affected area. Replace as needed (they’re small and don’t last long, so you may need several).
 A pet first-aid guide or handbook. First-aid references will help you make right decisions when the unexpected happens. These can be short (covering the most common conditions) or comprehensive, and they’re most useful when you’re familiar with their layout and contents.
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Camping And Traveling With Dogs

1/26/2023

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Via camping and national parks info as or May 2021

https://thedyrt.com/magazine/lifestyle/worst-national-parks-for-dogs-and-where-to-camp-instead/?fbclid=IwAR2GF9i1WR-hNCYdr1cTjWq-gl907oAAvNBQ03Zv9bDiKdOmuIQw5F9ZMsg

travel - dog friendly links

https://www.bringfido.com/?fbclid=IwAR2YiEnu--TlDcynbGA1I5JCCCERf3R4IWUObejNrbYKXmg7zwzLBofQdkA

other links well below should be checked as I have not updated since this covid malarkey... real but a lot of drama...

Beware of pups food intake and downtime requirements. Please see my notes on hypoglycemia
Some folks like to pick up their pups as part of a trip. A few suggestions to help that process with a puppy in addition to some comments on camping / traveling in general with your dog(s). I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking.  the same food they are used for the same reasons. You can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc tailored for your needs.

Keep the air conditioner or heat on when leaving your dog unattended. If you’re staying in an area with a warm climate, have a backup system in place for keeping your dog cool in case of power failure or an A/C malfunction while you’re gone.

There are 'apps' and sensors available that will alert you to your cell phone of temperature changes in your camper.   try a search  (camper temperature monitor for pets ) to learn more.  I have a 'dumb' phone so can't offer an opinion based on experience.  please feel free to advise me of options and suggestions on any dog product.

Always leave the air vents open with the fans on and beware of newer ventilation fans with built-in sensors that automatically shut vents if it rains. If your RV has these sensors, disable them before leaving your dog alone in the RV. Also, be sure to set out plenty of water before you leave.  for the dog in a crate add a water bottle. my favorite being the dog version of a rabbit bottle by lixit.

Bring a crate that can contain your dog safely in your camper. A freaked out dog can destroy a camper and even escape. If a crate not part of your hoe routine train your dog the the crate ahead of time. A spare bunk or even a dog bed stashed under the dinette table also make great spaces where your pup can go to relax and feel safe.


Bring comforts from home: Providing your pooch with a favorite blanket or toy will help it settle in to your home away from home. And be sure to keep favorite treats on hand for rewarding good behavior.

Clean up after your pet: Again, this is not only considerate, it’s a requirement in most campgrounds. Even if you’re dry-docking in the wilderness, picking up after your pup is better for the environment and the surrounding wildlife.

Locate the nearest storm shelter: Be sure your campground’s shelter allows pets, and keep a sharp eye on the weather reports, especially in areas prevalent for tornadoes or hurricanes.  see emergency plans elsewhere on my FAQ section.

Help your dog be a quiet neighbor: If your companion is prone to barking at the slightest disturbance, try using a fan or white noise machine to mask outside noises. I like a radio on a talk station or classical as background noise before and during a trip. Part of early puppy training here is fire crackers on the deck by 6 weeks old.  Acclimatizing your dog to  odd noises young helps later with fireworks - thunder storms - backfires - etc. When you need to leave your dog alone, take them on a walk first to release any pent-up energy and tire them out, and leave plenty of toys to keep them from barking out of boredom. If that doesn’t curb out-of-control barking, try an anti-barking device - there are many good options out there.
 
A good selection of decent brands and styles available at gundogsupply.com - note we have tested a number the cheap ones available at places like ebay and amazon and can say buyer beware or the 'inexpensive' think cheap in both meanings of the word. 
Bring the Right Gear


Besides your pet’s food, fresh water, bowls, leash and collar, grooming supplies, and all the comforts and necessities of daily life.   keep in mind the water your dog is accustomed to.  bottled water is neutral and available anywhere while well or 'city' water is different or may contain things like chlorine or fluoride your dog is not used to.

Think about activities you’ll want to engage in with your dog and pack accordingly. Here are some items you might want to bring along as your lifestyle or plans dictate.
  1. Safety harness with a handle. be sure it is well attached taking your dogs weight into account.
  2. Light that attaches to a leash or collar or vest - I have them on both sides of my service dogs vest. we also have collars that light all the way around and can be set to flash or just be on.  same option applies to leashes.
  3. Dog life vest - look at styles as I see some of the newer ones take into account your dog could be knocked out the same as you could in a boating accident or get very tired swimming.  a 'flap' or neck 'ring' to support the head.
  4. Water toys
  5. Booties to protect paws in snow and ice ( think about ice melting chemicals also ) or on hot or rocky surfaces. be very aware that asphalt is HOT in the sun.  you can figure that one out standing still a few minutes and feeling it though your shoes.  think how it must be on 'bare' feet.
  6. Dog sunscreen for nose, ears, and other exposed areas
  7. Pet-friendly mosquito and tick repellent
  8. Collapsible food and water dishes for your backpack if that is your style of camping.
  9. Sun goggles to protect your pet’s eyes if your dog tolerates them - again something to try and get his used to ahead of the need.
  10. Old beach towels for drying your pup off, mopping up messes or providing a surface to lie on shade umbrella
  11. Folding or collapsible play pen for small dogs
  12. Sweater or jacket for cold climates

Hotels
Many hotels accept pets as a chain. Red roof is one - as policies can change I suggest a quick search on traveling with pets for pet friendly hotels.  Not endorsing but as of December 2016  I found these quickly

http://www.officialpethotels.com/?refid=1385&refclickid=1385~G~E~pet-friendly-hotels&gclid=CMy-3tjo5tACFQ-NaQod2tID4A#axzz4SKfEcCOe

https://www.bringfido.com/lodging/


Identification
In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified.

Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots. If you plan on being away for more than a few days, consider purchasing a second identification tag giving the location and phone number of your vacation spot.


Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip. your vet can help you with that or you can buy your own online and 'implant' it -  - it is just like a shot over the shoulder blades but has the chip instead of liquid.  I recommend avid as one of the best chips.  AKC has their own chip they sell.   avoid halo as we tried them and they migrated far away from site normally checked.

Bring a recent picture of your dog along with you, as well as a copy of his health records listing all of his recent vaccinations.

A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car or camper and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet stores and online.

Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn, and lie down.  for most uses I recommend a wire suitcase model crate.  see the airlines rules on what they require.

Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.

Be prepared for an emergency if there’s a situation where your dog needs medical attention, you need to be prepared with the necessary information on hand - especially true of any medical concerns out of the ordinary for your dog.


Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.

Avoid carsickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.

Keep the car well ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.

Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.

Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.

Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks is not only a good idea for you but for your dog as well. Be sure to clean up after your dog. military protocol is 15 minute break every 2 to 3 hours or every 100 - 150 miles driving - whichever is shorter.

Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer.

If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog


Bring your dog to the veterinarian for a checkup before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up-to-date; take shot records with you. A health certificate within 10 days of travel are required for airline travel for dogs as 'cargo'. = check with the airlines about small dogs as carry-on. there is usually a fee and will require a soft sided crate but don't usually require the health certificate.  be sure the airlines knows when booking as seating arrangement will be adjusted accordingly. Service dogs are the exception to the normal size / crate requirement in the cabin - noting a very large dog or flight over 8 hours duration will have further requirements.

When traveling by plane, plan to visit your veterinarian before your trip. Certification of health must be provided to the airline dated no more than 10 days before travel. Rabies certificates are also required for dogs over 12 weeks old. Your dog should be at least 8 weeks old.

Airlines make it clear that it is the owner’s responsibility to verify the dog’s health and ability to fly. Ask your veterinarian if it would be best for your dog to be tranquilized for the trip.  I have to make the point as cargo they ask if the dog has been sedated and will possibly turn you down if the dog is sedated - possible exception with veterinarian note. check ahead of time on that one. Also be sure to check the temperature of the flight’s starting point and destination; it may be too hot or too cold to be safe for your dog.

Federal regulations prohibit shipping live animals as excess baggage or cargo if an animal will be exposed to temperatures that are below 25 degrees Fahrenheit or above 85 degrees Fahrenheit for more than two hours before departure, at arrival, or while making connections.


According to American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), air transport of sedated pets may be fatal. Over-sedation is the most frequent cause of animal deaths during airline transport and accounts for almost half of all deaths. Except in unusual circumstances, veterinarians should not dispense sedatives for animals that are to be transported. Little is known about the effects of sedation on animals that are under the stress of transportation and enclosed in cages at 8,000 feet or higher, the altitude at which cargo holds are pressurized. Additionally, some animals react abnormally to sedatives.

Although animals may be excitable while being handled during the trip to the airport and prior to loading, they probably revert to a quiescent resting state in the dark, closed cargo hold, and the sedatives may have an excessive effect. JAVMA, Vol 207, No.l 6, September 15, 1995 "An animal's natural ability to balance and maintain equilibrium is altered under sedation," noted Dr. Patricia Olson, a director of the American Humane Association (AHA). "When the kennel is moved, a sedated animal may not be able to brace and prevent injury." Increased altitude can also create respiratory and cardiovascular problems for dogs and cats that are sedated or tranquilized. Brachycephalic (pug or snub nosed) dogs and cats are especially affected. Insight, May/June 1997

Rather than tranquilizing, pre-condition your pet to its travel container. According to the Air Transport Association, "As far in advance of the trip as possible, let your pet get to know the flight kennel. Veterinarians recommend leaving it open in the house with an old sock or other familiar object inside so that your pet will spend time in the kennel. It is important for your dog or cat to be as relaxed as possible during the flight." "Air Travel for your Dog or Cat", Air Transport Assn of America, Sept 1991 From the International Air Transport Association: "The airline industry continues to warn owners and veterinarians against the use of sedatives/tranquilizers for dogs and cats being transported by air.

The effect of sedating drugs are unpredictable at air pressures inside an aircraft, which are equivalent to 8,000 ft altitude. At this pressure, the physiologic changes from sedatives/tranquilizers may be enhanced. There have been a number of instances where sedated pets traveling by air needed veterinary care to recover from the sedation. Some pets could not be revived. Occasionally, owners have given repeated doses to ensure a comfortable journey for their pet or when sedation did not follow a single dose. When questioned by airline personnel, many owners claim that their veterinarians had advised them to do so. Although sedatives/tranquilizers should never be repeated for animals traveling by air, sedated pets may have adverse reactions in pressurized aircraft even when single doses are administered at recommended dosages.

Remember that each airline has its own variations on regulations and services. For example, if your crate doesn’t meet its requirements, the airline may not allow you to use it. They may, however, allow your dog in the passenger cabin if your soft sided carrier fits under the seat in front of you.

When making your reservations, you must make reservations for your dog. There are restrictions on the number of animals permitted on each flight. They are accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.
If you plan to travel by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Only dogs under 20 pounds are permitted on Amtrak trains (There is also a $25 fee). Dogs are not allowed on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.

You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.


Campgrounds
Most all accept pets. Our experience camping has been no extra fee. you will be expected to clean up after your dog and not allow it to be a nuisance to other campers. {simply put - proper etiquette for the dog owner}.

Some state parks want to limit the number of dogs you bring to their campground. Same with some national parks. Check the rules for each place you intend to stay or check for a state by state listing of the rules if you are not sure .  We have a large camper and have taken some of the 'kids' with us to shows / festivals/ etc.

For in the camper you have to decide what you want.  We have a few crates that stack to keep the younger 'kids' contained and out of trouble. The grown dogs take over the couch or the bed or whatever they feel like plopping themselves down.  I will suggest bringing or acquiring along the way bottled water as neutral to what your pet is used to drinking.  the same food for the same reasons. you can figure the bowls - blankets - toys - etc for your needs.

Tents Vs. Campers
It has been a few years since we tent camped but a couple comments.  A crate for your dog or pups since a tent wall is not a proper barrier for an untrained pup.  Our adults are happy enough with their own bedding and trusted in the tent with us.  I would never leave a dog unattended in a tent for safety sake.
In warm weather - your dog gets hot same as you.  Selecting a shady spot and a small fan can help. For non electric camping I have a foldout battery fan.  Solar rechargeable options exist. I mention these so you know the exist to do your own research
In cold weather.  of more importance to small dogs and young pups.  warmth is critical.  going beyond the little doggie coats which can help them keep warm the same as you wear a jacket. products for cold weather camping exist.  We used to have a catalytic heater - a little pricey but safe.  Mr Heater as a brand has a range of sizes starting with a nice small heater that goes on the quart size propane bottle. (please research heaters to fit your needs - some small ones can be hung in the tent.  Others have nice bases to make them stable. Pups should be crated to ensure they don't knock over a heater) again not an endorsement although we do have one similar.  info provided as thought provoking https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DD6C4MY/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
for camping with access to electric it gets cheaper and simpler -a small ceramic heater can be a nice option.

If you are fine in your sleeping bag without additional 'area' heat but are traveling with a small pup - a normal heating pad (Be sure it is not one that has a short timer but one that stays on - I would check to see what level warms the crate interior but will suggest medium to not over heat the pup or burn out the pad if under the crate) under the pups crate can provide enough warmth.  Cover the crate with a blanket - consider one of the Mylar blankets underneath as ground radiant barrier. Mylar blankets are good under your sleeping bags and a must for a winter travel emergency in the car. You can get the pocket version inexpensively and they are extremely lightweight yet their apparent flimsiness belies their effectiveness.  Except for a hiking lightweight pack prefer the heavier version (I like ours = this blanket - https://www.amazon.com/Grabber-Outdoors-Original-Weather-Blanket/dp/B002CQUA28/ref=sr_1_7_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281087&sr=1-7&keywords=mylar+blanketDO )  we keep a couple in the car for winter emergencies. ( I recommend a winter emergency travel pack in your car - you can research appropriate things for your climate. Please consider your dog in your packing items )
Do NOT encase the crate with a non breathable blanket like the Mylar.  over the sides and back - ok. a normal blanket over the front ( large towel works )

Hiking
Depending on your situation  - such as backpacking. Products like collapsible food and water bowls or even fabric bowls exist for space and weight.  Pups can't be expected to hike a long distance like an adult dog can. consider a back / front pack for you to wear for your small dog or pup. Same rules apply to your dog as would a child. Don't set out on a 50 mile hike without being sure your dog is in physical shape for it. NOT endorsing and I have never used one but have seen similar in use... providing a link to stimulate your search ideas: https://www.amazon.com/Pettom-Carrier-Soft-sided-Outdoor-Backpack/dp/B01CFKO774/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1481278310&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=dog+backpack+carrier&psc=1

Taking This One Step Further: Consider the weather and pups comfort.  In cold weather consider the hand /foot heaters such as hot hands - some are good for up to 10 hours and do not give off fumes. A nice heater for your pocket that is reusable runs on butane. Not a brand endorsement but for your edification: https://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Warmer-Polish-Chrome-Lighter/dp/B000KGET4C/ref=sr_1_sc_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481281479&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=butant+hand+heat
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Early Neuter Doubles The Risk Of Hip Dysplasia and other concerns In Dogs

1/26/2023

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The results of a number of publications are briefly summarized here regarding  the areas of orthopedics, cancer, behavior, and other health considerations. I've condensed a lot if this from veterinary practice news to address the more pertinent facts. I encourage you to research this further when making a decision on when to spay / neuter your pup. I personally will recommend a minimum of 1 year of age.
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Orthopedic Considerations

1/26/2023

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Bitches spayed at 7 weeks  had significantly delayed closure of growth plates as  compared to those spayed at 7 months, and those spayed at 7 months  had significantly delayed closure of growth plates as compared to those left intact.

In a study of 1444 Golden Retrievers, bitches and dogs spayed or neutered at less than a year of age  were significantly  taller than those spayed or neutered after a year of age.

In a study of 203 agility dogs,  the  tibia and radius and ulna were significantly  longer than the femur and humerus, respectively, in dogs that were spayed or neutered at or prior to 8 months   of age as compared to intact dogs.

Several studies have shown that spayed and neutered dogs have a significantly higher prevalence of  CCL  rupture  even when controlling for body size.

Dogs that were neutered at least  6 months prior to a diagnosis of hip dysplasia were 1.5 times more likely to develop hip dysplasia than
sexually intact dogs.

Spayed/neutered dogs had 3.1 times higher incidence of  patellar luxation.

Dogs that have been spayed or neutered  at or before puberty can often  be identified by their longer  limbs, lighter bone structure, narrower chests and narrower skulls than intact dogs of the same breed  This  differential growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and  therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others.

For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically  determined normal length at 8 months, prior to a dog being spayed or neutered, but the tibia ( which normally  stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age) continues to  elongate for several months after that point because of the  removal of the sex hormones, then  the relationship between the femur and tibia will be different than what was  genetically determined.

This may result in  an abnormal angle  at the stifle and a longer (and therefore heavier) tibia placing increased stress on the cranial cruciate ligament (of the knee or stifle joint).
​
It is well known that  spayed and neutered dogs  are more likely to be overweight or obese than sexually intact dogs, and this can be a contributing factor to  orthopedic diseases.
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Cancer Considerations

1/26/2023

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Spayed  females had more than 5 times greater risk than intact bitches of developing
cardiac hemangiosarcoma and neutered  males had  1.6 times higher risk than intact males had of developing  cardiac  hemangiosarcoma.

Spayed females had 2.2 times increased risk for developing  splenic  hemangiosarcoma
In a second study, spayed/neutered dogs  had  a 2.2 times higher  risk of developing
bone cancer than intact dogs.

Neutered dogs had a 2.8 times greater risk for developing any prostate than intact dogs.

Neutered dogs had a 4.3 times higher risk of developing prostate carcinoma.

Neutered dogs had a 3.6 higher risk for developing transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder
than intact dogs and a 3 times greater risk of developing any bladder tumor.

Spayed/neutered dogs had more than 4 times greater risk for developing transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder than intact dogs.

One study indicated a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer in female dogs after one heat cycle (8% increase), greater risk with two heats (26% increase) and increased risk with each subsequent heat.

However, a recent  systematic review  of the publications that advocate neutering to reduce the risk of mammary  tumors in dogs indicated that 9 of 13 reports had a high risk of bias and the remaining 4 had a moderate risk of  bias. This study concluded that the evidence that neutering reduces the risk of mammary cancer is weak and do not constitute a sound basis for firm recommendations.

Additionally, at the time when several of these studies were conducted (late 1960s), it was found that incidence rates for all malignant neoplasms were 4/100,000 female dogs. Mammary tumors accounted for half of these tumors, 8/100,000. Thus, the actual overall risk  at that time of any bitch getting a mammary tumor was only 0.2%.

In any case, the figures for increased risk of mammary cancer must be compared with the 200 to 400% increased risk of other cancers in spayed females.

While about 30% of mammary cancers are malignant as in humans, when caught and surgically removed  early, the prognosis is very good)

This is in comparison to the other cancers listed, such as hemangiosarcoma
and bladder cancer, which are often fatal. 

Given the balance of cancer risks listed above, owners  should strongly consider leaving the ovaries intact for at least two heat cycles. In addition, the veterinary  field should be developing programs for regular examinations  including imaging to facilitate early diagnosis of mammary cancer in all intact female dogs, as has been performed in women for decades.

Behavior Considerations
Early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors, such as mounting. Significantly  more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs, with  fearful behavior being most common in spayed bitches and aggression in neutered dogs.

In 2011, researchers at the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine found that cancer was the most common cause of death in older dogs. (It’s also the leading cause of death for 71 of the 82 breeds studied.)

what your vet says should take precedence over this - I will touch on some of the more common tumors/cancers as we've had several dogs over the past 4 decades with cancer and more with lipomas which while worrisome are not something to panic over -but should be monitored letting your vet know of rapid changes.

Not all tumors in dogs are cancerous, but all of them should be evaluated by your veterinarian.

Lipomas
Christine Swanson, DVM, a veterinary medical oncologist and assistant professor at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Michigan State University, calls this benign fatty tumor very common and notes that many different breeds are prone to developing them. Lipomas usually feel like a relatively soft mass that can be moved around underneath a dog’s skin.
They vary in size, and most of the time, they’re not a serious issue. A fine needle aspirate is done to confirm the benign nature of the tumor, and the tumor is usually only removed if it’s bothersome to the dog’s normal movement or activity

Mast Cell Tumors
mast cell tumors are one of the most common type of canine skin tumors. These grow quickly and are usually red and very itchy.

Melanoma
This is a form of cancer of the pigmented cells of the skin of dogs, and like melanoma in people, these tumors are typically black or dark brown. Many skin masses are benign, but those in the mouth and at the nail bed can be very aggressive, she adds. In the case of the latter, the toe is typically swollen and may be painful. Following an x-ray, it may be determined that the affected toe must be amputated in order to fully remove the cancerous mass.

The risks with this specific type of melanoma don’t end there. It may metastasize to places such as the lymph nodes in the area and the lungs, liver, or other internal organs. Once evidence of such metastasis has been identified, some combination of surgery, radiation therapy, and immunotherapy (a therapeutic vaccine for canine melanoma has been licensed by the USDA)

Lymphoma
Lethargy, decreased appetite, and coughing may accompany swollen lymph nodes in dogs of all breeds with this type of cancer, although some individuals initially show little in the way of symptoms other than lymph node swelling. this swelling is most noticeable under the jaw, in front of the shoulders, and behind the knees.
A fine needle aspirate and/or tissue biopsy is done to reach a diagnosis. Then, a veterinary oncologist will conduct something called a staging test to determine where else in the body these cells might be. The most common treatment is chemotherapy.

Papilloma
These benign tumors are warts in dogs, and Swanson says they can be uncomfortable and problematic. When this infection develops, multiple hard, pale, cauliflower-like warts are noted typically on the lips, inside the mouth, and around the eyes. The warts can be painful and severe infections can make chewing and swallowing difficult.

Papillomas will go away after a few weeks, sometimes months—though if they’re causing major problems for the dog in question, they can and should be removed by a veterinarian.
​
These benign tumors are caused by a virus (called papillomavirus) that is transmitted by direct contact with an infected dog or contaminated objects like bedding or toys. While it’s best to keep affected dogs isolated from unaffected ones, the incubation period often lasts months, so by the time symptoms make themselves known, it might have already spread to other dogs in a household.
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Loss Of Your Best Friend And Adding A Pup

1/26/2023

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I miss dogs gone 50 + years - even though it is a fact of life I still can't help shedding a tear at times.  Some folks want to wait until the old dogs has passed to bring a new pup in. I can understand and you know your dog best. However, many many times when folk have brought in the new pup anyway the pup can learn many things from the 'boss' and the the 'boss' may 'enjoy' the company and opportunity to 'teach' the new pup with maybe a little rebound in liveliness. 
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Fruit and Vegetable Safety For Dogs

1/26/2023

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Raw yeast
Raw yeast cells multiply too quickly for dogs’ gastrointestinal tracts. When dogs swallow unbaked dough, it can continue to rise, creating a risk of blockage or even rupture of the dog’s GI tract. In instances when a very large amount of yeast is eaten, the yeast also ferments inside the dog, producing alcohol, in which case alcohol poisoning can occur.  use your best judgement on when to involve the vet.
If you bake breads from scratch, or have yeast in your kitchen for any other reason, remember to keep it – rising dough in particular – in a safe, dog-proof location.

I admit a lot of this is copied I've added it just to provide some potentially important info:

Fruits, nuts & Vegetables

Apples – Yes. Apples are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, as well as fiber for your dog. They are low in protein and fat, making them the perfect snack for senior dogs. Just be sure to remove the seeds and core first. Try them frozen for an icy warm weather snack. Read More >

Bananas – Yes. In moderation, bananas are a great low-calorie treat for dogs. They’re high in potassium, vitamins, biotin, fiber, and copper. They are low in cholesterol and sodium, but because of their high sugar content, bananas should be given as a treat, not part of your dog’s regular diet.

Watermelon – Yes. It’s important to remove the rind and seeds first, as they can cause intestinal blockage, but watermelon is otherwise safe for dogs. It’s full of vitamin A, B-6, and C, as well as potassium. Watermelon is 92 percent water, so it’s a great way to keep your dog hydrated on hot summer days. Read more >

Grapes – No. Grapes and raisins have proved to be very toxic for dogs no matter the dog’s breed, sex, or age. In fact, grapes are so toxic that they can lead to acute sudden kidney failure. Definitely skip this dangerous treat. Read More >

Strawberries – Yes. Strawberries are full of fiber and vitamin C. Along with that, they also contain an enzyme that can help whiten your dog’s teeth as he or she eats them. They are high in sugar though, so be sure to give them in moderation. Read More >

Oranges – Yes. Small dogs can have up to 1/3 of a full-size orange, while large dogs can eat the whole thing. While the peel isn’t toxic to them, vets recommend tossing the peel and just giving your dog the inside of the orange, minus the seeds, as the peel is much more rough on their digestive systems than the fleshy inside of the orange.

Blueberries – Yes. Blueberries are a superfood rich in antioxidants, which prevent cell damage in humans and canines alike. They’re packed with fiber and phytochemicals as well. Teaching your dog to catch treats in the air? Try blueberries as an alternative to store-bought treats. Read More >

Carrots – Yes. Carrots are an excellent low-calorie snack that is high in fiber and beta-carotene, which produces vitamin A. Plus, crunching on the orange snacks is great for your dog’s teeth. Read More >

Tomatoes – No. While the ripened fruit of the tomato plant (the red part humans normally eat) is generally considered safe for dogs, the green parts of the plant contain a toxic substance called solanine. While a dog would need to eat a large amount for it to make him or her sick, it’s better to skip tomatoes all together just to be safe. Read More >

Pineapple – Yes. A few chunks of pineapple is a great sweet treat for dogs as long as the prickly outside is removed first. The tropical fruit is full of vitamins, minerals, and fiber. It also contains bromelain, an enzyme that makes it easier for dogs to absorb proteins.  Read More >

Avocado – No. While avocado may be a healthy snack for dog owners, it should not be given to dogs at all. The pit, skin and leaves of avocados contain Persin, a toxin that often causes vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. The fleshy inside of the fruit doesn’t have as much Persin as the rest of the plant, but it is still too much for dogs to handle.

Broccoli – Yes, broccoli is safe for dogs to eat in very small quantities and is best served as an occasional treat. It is high in fiber and vitamin C and low in fat. On the surface, this makes it an appealing choice for dog owners looking for a healthy dog treat, but broccoli also contains a potentially harmful ingredient. Broccoli florets contain isothiocyanates, which can cause mild-to-potentially-severe gastric irritation in some dogs. Also, broccoli stalks have been known to cause obstruction in the esophagus.
     
Mushrooms – No. Wild mushrooms can be toxic for dogs. While only 50 to 100 of the 50,000 mushroom species worldwide are known to be toxic, the ones that are can really hurt your dog or even lead to death. Washed mushrooms from the supermarket could be OK, but it’s better to be safe than sorry; skip out on the fungi all together.

Cucumbers – Yes. Cucumbers are especially good for overweight dogs, as they hold little to no carbohydrates, fats, or oils and can even boost energy levels. They’re loaded with vitamins K, C, and B1, as well as potassium, copper, magnesium, and biotin.

Celery – Yes. In addition to vitamins A, B, and C, this crunchy green snack contains the nutrients needed to promote a healthy heart and even fight cancer. As if that wasn’t enough, celery also known to freshen doggy breath.

Onions – No. Onions, leeks, and chives are part of a family of plants called Allium that is poisonous to most pets, especially cats. Eating onions can cause your dog’s red blood cells to rupture, and can also cause vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, and nausea. Poisoning onions is more serious in Japanese breeds of dogs such as Akitas and Shiba Inus, but all dogs are very susceptible to it.

Pears – Yes. Pears are a great snack because they’re high in copper, vitamins C and K, and fiber. It’s been suggested that eating the fruit can reduce the risk of having a stroke by 50 percent. Just be sure to cut pears into bite-size chunks and remove the pit and seeds first, as the seeds contain traces of cyanide.

Potatoes – Yes. It’s fine to give your dog plain potatoes every once and a while, but only if they’re cooked, as raw potatoes can be rough on the stomach. A washed, peeled, plain boiled, or baked potato contains lots of iron for your pet. Avoid mashed potatoes because they often contain butter, milk, or seasonings.

Cherries – No. With the exception of the fleshy part around the seed, cherry plants contain cyanide and are toxic to dogs. Cyanide disrupts cellular oxygen transport, which means that your dog’s blood cells can’t get enough oxygen. If your dog eats cherries, be on the lookout for dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, and red gums, as these may be signs of cyanide poisoning.

Peaches – Yes. Small amounts of cut-up peaches are a great source of fiber and vitamin A, and can even help fight infections, but just like cherries, the pit does contain cyanide. As long as you completely cut around the pit first, fresh peaches can be a great summer treat – just not canned peaches, as they usually contain high amounts of sugary syrups.

Asparagus – No. While asparagus isn’t necessarily unsafe for dogs, there’s really no point in giving it to them. It’s too tough to be eaten raw, and by the time you cook it down so it’s soft enough for dogs to eat, asparagus loses the nutrients it contains. If you’re determined to give your dogs vegetables, go for something that will actually benefit them.

Sweet potatoes – Yes. Sweet potatoes are packed with nutrients, including fiber, beta carotene, and vitamins B-6 and C. Just like with regular potatoes, only give your dog washed, peeled, cooked, and unseasoned sweet potatoes that have cooled down, and definitely avoid sugary sweet potato pies and casseroles.

Raspberries – Yes. Raspberries are fine in moderation. They contain antioxidants that are great for dogs. They’re low in sugar and calories, but high in fiber, manganese, and vitamin C. Raspberries are especially good for senior dogs because they have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help take pain and pressure from joints. However, they do contain slight amounts of the toxin Xylitol, so limit your dog to less than a cup of raspberries at a time.

Mango – Yes. This sweet summer treat is packed with four, yes four different vitamins: vitamins A, B6, C, and E. They also have potassium and both beta-carotene and alpha carotene. Just remember, as with most fruits, to remove the hard pit first, as it contains small amounts of cyanide and can become a choking hazard.

Macadamia nut- The good news is that we have no documented cases of macadamia nut poisoning that has led to death. It alleviates after it passes through the dog – in around 12 to 36 hours. The bad news is symptoms are dramatic. Hind-end weakness, lethargy, depression, vomiting, and diarrhea all come after eating as little as 1 gram of macadamia nuts per pound of a dog’s body weight.
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Canning Your Own Chicken

1/26/2023

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We raise most of our own food organically since I am admittedly anti-chemical to a point.  we use those large turkey cookers to cook perhaps a dozen chickens over night (you can use store bought chicken hopefully finding a nice sale).

Basic steps are cook until practically falling off the bone, let cool, de-bone, can the meat - see most universities canning procedures for caning meat and adjust for your altitude. 75 minutes a pint and 90 a quart. look up the pressure for your altitude.

Toss remaining skin - bones - meat stuck to bones - etc into your pressure cooker. what you want is the bones to crush easily between your fingers.

Strain broth off and can separately for you or your dogs use. Can or freeze the rest. Noting a salmon can with the sloped side make an easy to remove "hockey puck" frozen treat for your dog.  We save the canned product to mix in with some rice or barley or?  for cooking in the winter on the wood stove to give the dogs a warm treat meal.

  • Increase in DCM in dogs may be linked to diet  - excerpt.
  • Grain free feeds being investigated
  • FDA investigating connection between canine heart disease and pet food ingredients

    Instances of canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) may be correlated to specific ingredients in pet foods, says the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

    The agency is warning veterinary professionals about occurrences of the disease in dogs consuming foods containing peas, lentils, other legume seeds, or potatoes as main ingredients. The FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) and the Veterinary Laboratory Investigation and Response Network (Vet-LIRN), a collaboration of government and veterinary diagnostic laboratories, are investigating this potential association.

    https://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/increase-in-dcm-in-dogs-may-be-linked-to-diet/
​
  • “The FDA is investigating a potential dietary link between canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) and dogs eating certain grain-free pet foods. The foods of concern are those containing legumes such as peas or lentils, other legume seeds, or potatoes listed as primary ingredients. The FDA began investigating this matter after it received a number of reports of DCM in dogs that had been eating these diets for a period of months to years. DCM itself is not considered rare in dogs, but these reports are unusual because the disease occurred in breeds of dogs not typically prone to the disease.”
    After the advisory, 149 new cases of DCM were reported to the FDA.
    What is Dilated Cardiomyopathy?

    Dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) is a type of canine heart disease that affects the heart muscle. The hearts of dogs with DCM have a decreased ability to pump blood, which often results in congestive heart failure.

    Some breeds, especially large and giant breeds, have a predisposition to DCM. These breeds include Doberman Pinschers, Great Danes, Newfoundlands, Irish Wolfhounds, and Saint Bernards. While DCM is less common in medium and small breeds, English and American Cocker Spaniels are also predisposed to this condition.

    When early reports from the veterinary cardiology community indicated that recent, atypical cases in breeds like Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Whippets, Bulldogs, and Shih Tzus all consistently ate grain alternatives in their diets, the FDA took notice.
    Should you be Concerned About Grain-Free Diets?

    According to Dr. Klein, “At this time, there is no proof that these ingredients are the cause of DCM in a broader range of dogs, but dog owners should be aware of this alert from the FDA. The FDA continues to work with veterinary cardiologists and veterinary nutritionists to better understand the effect, if any, of grain-free diets on dogs.”

    In the Dec. 1 2018 version of the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Lisa M. Freeman, DVM, PhD, DACVN, provided an update to the research on DCM and emphasized the issue is not just grain-free diets. She calls the suspected diets “BEG” diets (boutique companies, exotic ingredients, or grain-free diets).

    “The apparent link between BEG diets and DCM may be due to ingredients used to replace grains in grain-free diets, such as lentils or chickpeas, but also may be due to other common ingredients commonly found in BEG diets, such as exotic meats, vegetables, and fruits,” Freeman wrote.
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What Our Clients Are Saying

"We are so pleased with our Puppy. We could really tell that Pine Trace Gold took the time to carefully breed their dogs. They answered all of our questions with a smile! Choosing the right breed for our family could've been very stressful but these guys made it an easy process. We love our boy so much! Thank you Pine Trace Gold!"
- J & M, Cookeville TN

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